Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all

I am at my wits end to solve this problem ive had with squealing brakes. Im running QFM D1RM pads on DBA 4000 slotted rotors. Rotors were brand spankers when pads went on.

I have tried:

With shims

Without Shims

With shims and CRC Red anti squeal glue between the shim and the pads backing plate.

Without shims and the anti squeal glue between the calliper and the pad

Using the glue to glue in all parts - The pins, the spring and the saftey pin to stop them from vibrating

I also tried the above with a loctite substance on the recommendation of the seller of these pads, again, no effect.

I have also extensively cleaned the rotors, calipers and surrounding parts to remove dust build ups.

After none of this worked, I got more aggressive. I compared the profile of the pad to a Bendix ultimate pad and noticed the ultimate had sloped edges. I used sand paper to rough up the top of the pad then wear away the edges so they were slanted, then went and bedded the brakes back in. This seems to have somewhat reduced the effect but its still quite strong.

im now completely out of ideas. Any assistance I could get would be great. This is ruining the whole driving experience for me as I am afraid to touch the brakes for fear of drawing massive amounts of attention to myself. The pads I use are supposed to be quiet and not squeal and have had tons of good reviews, and I have seen them used in other cars with excellent results. Their performance is awesome with lots of bight and no fade but the noise is unbearable.

Help?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/254897-squealing-breaks/
Share on other sites

Mate, i am in the same boat as you, i have been told that if you do not grease up your caliper bolts then the caliper can f**k up and cause squealing.

ATM i have 2 rounded wheel nuts on the side thats making so much noise so i havent had a chance to test this out but once i have i will re post with my findings.

Good luck mate, i know EXACTLY how it feels.

Greasing up the caliper bolts? Haven't heard of that before.....

Me either (for squealing). AFAIK greasing bolts is done to ensure that bolt tension is the most accurate when combined with a torque wrench, because it creates a predictable level of friction between the thread mating surfaces. You use a lower torque setting for greased vs dry but end up with the same level of bolt tension. When i installed my brake upgrade kit UAS told me to use the thread lube stuff. For a lot of stuff its not worth worrying about, but for flywheel bolts (and i guess calliper bolts) etc its important.

The research i did suggested that the squealing is caused by vibration between the calliper piston and pad.

FWIW, my old setup with the stock callipers was; pad backing plate -> shim -> shim grease -> shim -> red goo -> calliper piston, and I had no noise at all. I never worried that much about special bedding in procedures (but that doesnt mean you shouldnt).

By calliper bolts do you mean the two bolts that old the callipers on? Should I grease them up? Ive just dont them up as tight as i can, I was thinking of loctiting them in with a soft threadlocker.

Or do you mean the two bolts that go through the pads to hold them in place? If this is the case, what grease should I use? I tried coating them in the CRC red stuff and this seemed to help for a while but the effect soon returned.

To bed in, I used rough sand paper to rough up the top of the pad then I basically did 6 - 8 100 - 20 or so stops and a few 60 - 0 stops in a local back street however I didnt want to annoy too many people so I left it at that, the brakes were squealing rather badly and the car is not quiet by any means.

Correction, grease up the caliper slide pins.

ATM i have bendix standards in my car and i have feeling they could be the culprit, although its weird that bendix standards would squeak.

I have bought CRC de-squeak and sprayed my front rotors, this has helped a little bit but the squeal still comes back but not as bad.

Nissan pads are the go. I tried 4 differnet types of pads in the back of my R33 (Bosch, RB74s, and others) all squealed like buggery no matter what i tried. It drove me up the wall and sometimes i just didnt want to drive my car as it screeched so much. I have slotted rotors, stock calipers, nothing flash. Got some second hand Nissan pads for rear, and the first day they went in i had a little tear in my eye, not a single screech.

Not even a squeak since, months later, soooooo relieved.

Just put an ad in WANTED section for second hand Nissan pads, they are dam cheap and someone always has some lying around.

I only have Nissan ones on the rear, i have RaceBrakes RB74s on the front. The fronts get a bit noisy every few months with too much city driving, then a few high speed stops on the freeway burns the crap off and they are good as gold once more.

Good luck on your quest mate, its a relief at the end when they are dead silent all the time. :)

same boat mate... i put rb74s on the front with new dba 4000s aswell and the squeeking is hideous... it does it when the brakes get some heat in them... when you pull up at the lights it happens when the car has almost come to a stop. drives me crazy.

Brother put on 4000s with bendix advanced pads and same thing... tried everything you have but couldnt get rid of it.

Sounds like a common annoying problem many of us share. Anyone use other performance pads with dba 4000s that dont sqeak???

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
    • Hi Guys, Does anyone know any aftermarket part numbers for a starter motor to suit the VQ25DET? I can find lots of alternative part number for the VQ35DE, which I assume would fit, but there is a lot of conflicting information out there. Thanks..
    • I don't understand how this hasn't boiled down to - Upgrade the turbo when you have everything required. ECU, injectors, fuel pump, turbo, etc. Do it all at once.  If you don't have everything required, just enjoy the car as it is and keep saving up your pennies. 
×
×
  • Create New...