Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I cant see shit out of my rear window when parallell parkingat night and its only 25% so 5% will be worse than that.

Costs, anywhere from $150 - $300 depending on who, where and what type of film.

And as long as you get metal film and a lifetime warranty, just about any tint shop should do it since you can always take it back if it doesnt look right.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/25506-window-tints/#findComment-541994
Share on other sites

remember that 35% is legal limit..... BUT 5% is great, you get used to the dark :)

the darker it goes the more expensive, plus the 5% only comes in the smaller rolls so will have split in middle of rear screen, so they have to be good at what they do!!

call a couple of places near you, dont know of any near your place but, and get some prices of the 5% then i'll get the guys number who did mine and send it to you!! did you get the pm?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/25506-window-tints/#findComment-542013
Share on other sites

I have 20% on mine and it seems to be the best compromise between privacy and being able to see out at night. The only problems I have are parallel parking when there are no street lights, but that's where power windows come in handy :)

I've been RBT'd a few times and no cop has even looked twice at my tint. I've heard a rumour that the way they based the laws on the 35% "legal" tint were flawed, and as such they are unable to bust anyone with darker tints than that. Well maybe 5% would get you done but 20% is too close for them to call. But 20% is heaps better than 35% I reckon, looks better, keeps the heat out better, etc.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/25506-window-tints/#findComment-542040
Share on other sites

At Gladesville Garlick Ford. The guy that does their "factory" tints works in their workshop, but he does his own private work for a lot less than what the dealership charges for their new cars. I was quoted $180 for all windows except windscreen, with metal film tint (Johnsons brand), lifetime guarantee, etc. But in the end he said the rear didn't need to be re-done and was a close enough match for the sides so I only paid $120.

Unfortunately I don't have the guy's number anymore because I did this a year ago, but if you ring up the dealership and ask them for the guy that does their tints I'm sure they'll put you through. His name is Adam somebody.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/25506-window-tints/#findComment-542056
Share on other sites

thanks for the info.. i dunno what im going to get now.. im going to look at CRAVED again and see the 5% tints again.

as for getting it done.. im just going to call around.. im sure it wont be a hassle. i like the idea of that guy who does it for the factory new cars.. i wanna find a guy like that.

thanks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/25506-window-tints/#findComment-542231
Share on other sites

Im a window tinter but live in Perth. Have my own business.

Check out my site www.tkotinting.com to see what I can do.

5% doesnt just come in the small rolls, it comes in any size.

If a tinter does your Skyline(any model) in more than one piece, he's crap.

Make sure he takes your door trims off and uses steel wool on the back window to clean it, and make sure he goes right to the edge on all the windows.

Prices sound about right.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/25506-window-tints/#findComment-543092
Share on other sites

TKO, so if the 5% comes in bigger rolls then i can see why you think they could be crap!! But considering i only had to pay about $150 and he did it in the dark with a torch, he did a bloody good job!!

one question i do have for you, the custom tints you do with the designs is that layed under the other tint, or is it outside, can you explain for me how it is done?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/25506-window-tints/#findComment-543500
Share on other sites

Metal tint is what it sounds like - tint with metal in it. The metal provides the darker colour rather than dye, and as such it can never fade or change colour (have you seen a sheet of steel change colour in the sun? :P aside from rust I guess).

Thus they are more expensive and able to have longer warranties on them. And it won't mess up your alarm sensors, I think the sales guy is either misinformed or FOS.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/25506-window-tints/#findComment-543571
Share on other sites

Hey TKO, I was quoted $360 from Tint Master in Geelong to get my current tint ripped out and new 20% metal tint put in. Does this sound right to you? My Impreza was $300 (new car - no tint). Is $60 around about what you should pay to get tint off? Also, I've taken the back seat and parcel shelf out to make things a bit easier for them:)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/25506-window-tints/#findComment-543915
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If it dies, then bypass. The task isn't difficult. I have one running on a standard R32 FPCM. That's after nearly 20 years of it running an 040, which pull substantially more current than the Walbro. They're not the same module, but I'd hope it indicates that the R33 one should be man enough for the job. I think people kill them when putting proper sized pumps on them, not these little toy pumps we're talking about here.
    • Silicone spray won't hurt anything. And if it does, that's an opportunity to put some solid steel spherical bushings in, so you can really learn what suspension noise sounds like, If you're going to try it, just spray one bush at a time, so you can work out which one is actually noisy. My best guess is that if the noise started only since putting the coilovers in, then it is just noise being transmitted up through the top mounts of the struts, and not necessarily "new" noise from bushes. But it's almost impossible to know.
    • Are you saying the 34 is SUV height, and not that we're talking about an SUV here? (because if we're talking about an SUV, you don't fix them. You just replace them when something breaks. Not worth establishing sufficient emotional connection with an SUV to warrant doing any work on one). I wouldn't jack my car up on a short little loop of 10mm steel rod poking out through a hole in the bumper bar, front or rear end. I realise that we're probably not talking about that type of loop at the front, being the one under/behind the bar on a Skyline.... but even for that one, trying to jack up on what amounts to a thin piece of steel, designed purely for withstanding a horizontal tension force, not a vertical compressive force (and so would be prone to buckling/crushing) and, my most particular bitch about it - located RIGHT AT THE EXTREME FRONT OF THE CAR, applying a load up through the radiator support panel, etc, with almost the entire mass of the car cantilevered between there and the rear wheels? Nope. Not doing that. Not on the regular. That structure out there in front of the front crossmember is not designed to carry load in the vertical direction. Not really designed to carry any load at all, really. The chassis rail that the tow point is connected to would be fine loaded in tension, as per towing. Not intended to carry the mass of the whole car, especially loaded all on one rail, with twisting and all sorts of shitty load distribution going on. No, I will happily drive up on some pieces of wood, thanks. That can only happen on driven wheels, and they are at the other end of the car, and this problem does not exist at that end of the car. And even then, I have been known to drive up on at least 1x piece of 2x8 each side at the rear, simply to reduce the amount of jack pumping necessary to get the car up high enough for the jack stands. What really really shits me about Skylines is the lack of decent places for chassis stands at either end of the car. You'd think they'd be designed into the crossmembers.
    • I've got MCA Blues on my V36 Skyline, and while I've managed to sort out issues with scrubbing/bottoming out by raising it a smidge and increasing the damping hardness, the rear end still sounds *super* noisy when driving on anything other than the flattest surface imaginable. It sounds like a small party of flamingos are just chatting away in the back, which makes me think there are several link points in the suspension contributing to the noise. Am I hearing dried out/worn bushings? None of it sounds like metal-on-metal, it sounds more like hard rubber squeaking on metal. It's been suggested that a bit of silicon spray on each bushing might quiet them down, but I'm not sure what material the current bushings are made of (probably factory, I imagine) and whether silicon spray will degrade that material.
    • The obvious answer here is get a ND2/3 RF with the Targa top. The red is nicer, too!
×
×
  • Create New...