Nitrous Information

[SirRacer]

Im after some information from people who have used Nitrous before in a small shot.

Im sending my rb30 in soon to be retuned which should net around 350kws at the wheels. Ive got a nitrous kit here that ive had for yonks that i got for next to nothing and wouldnt mind trying it. A few mates have had success with 40/60 hp shots which is what ill be doing. Hopefully ill get around the 380/400rwkw mark.

I will have a seperate fuel map through my computer for the nitrous.

Im interesting in whether its really necessary to have a purge system? If not what sort of delay can one expect before it kicks in?

My next one is whether im going to have issues running the nitrous (if so what issues) running without a bottle heater? I am in NZ (lot colder than AU) and the car may be used for night drags during the summer. The bottle will be mounted in the boot and i have considered a blanket to help retail heat?

Id love to hear from those who have used it before and the pro's and cons of both.

Thanks

[STATUS]

bottle heater is a necessity IMO as it keeps the hit and therefore the NO2 tune consistant, i ran a heater but no purge as i used most of my gas on the street just being a jerk the softer hit without the purge helped cushion the shock on my auto.... for the first hit anyway i ran a 200hp kit on my old clunker but have done a couple of setups on NA 300zx's and supras lately usually 80-150hp.

[SirRacer]

Good to hear feedback like that. The one advantage of more cylinders i guess is the potential to run more nitrous.

Whats the best way in your opinion to have it setup? Eg on a button or switch on the throttle?

Is there also a correlation between drill bit sizes and the size of the nitrous shot. Have a few small hp fittings here (25hp etc) that are no use, and ive been told you can drill them out.

Any other hints or tips you would suggest?

[SirRacer]

Good to hear feedback like that. The one advantage of more cylinders i guess is the potential to run more nitrous.

Whats the best way in your opinion to have it setup? Eg on a button or switch on the throttle?

Is there also a correlation between drill bit sizes and the size of the nitrous shot. Have a few small hp fittings here (25hp etc) that are no use, and ive been told you can drill them out.

Any other hints or tips you would suggest?

[SafT]

You always want a wide open throttle switch (as a safety mechanism)

[darren lewis]

You always want a wide open throttle switch (as a safety mechanism)

the bottle should be kept at a constant temp, very hard to do. this will keep the mixture correct. as the bottle gets colder the pressure will decrease and it will go rich. nice to keep bottle 850 900 degrees, in youre climate you will need a heater. also a guage on the bottle to monitor bottle pressure. apurge is nice to get a cool shot at the solenoid, happy times!!!!

[STATUS]

i like to use a rpm switch and a tps mounted switch, RSM is perfect for the job if you already have one.

[rev210]

the timing map needs to be tweaked with timing taken out. You are using a 'wet' system?

You can get yourself another 100rwkw with the fogger if you have the supporting systems and motor build can take it. Going from 350rwkw to 450rwkw might be fun

You can jewlers drill /file out the jets. All jets should be flow tested anyway to do it right. The NOS brand basic brass flare jets aren't always bang on in size and even NOS themselves at least reccomend flow testing them (very easy backyard test to do).

[billybob]

definately a bottle heater! Once the pressure gets below about 800psi the shot is really affected. Purge not so much.

Definately a full throttle switch!

[SirRacer]

whats the deal with the full throttle switch? is there any specific one i should get?

bloody USD. heaters are now 350nzd +. i presume a bottle blanket wont do the job?

Edited February 9, 2009 by SirRacer