Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi all,

have up for sale my hks cast low mount external gate manifold.

said above is basically it, um its covered in some kind of high temp coating, and is in practically new condition. fairly rare, i kno i hadnt seen one of this till i had one.

please note, this item is for r33 rb25det, i had slight problems with mounting it to my r32 rb25, changing the position on the turbo made it foul on my chassis rail and strut tower (view relevant pics). actualli when u look at it, its only the actuator that was making the trouble, my plan was to block off the ext gate part and run an internal... anyways depends what turbo u wanna run as to what will fit in what and all that jazz...

THIS IS MADE FOR AN R33 RB25DET, if u wanna try and put in on something else its up to you :(

post-36971-1233665882_thumb.jpg

post-36971-1233665935_thumb.jpg

post-36971-1233665982_thumb.jpg

post-36971-1233665764_thumb.jpg

cost - $600 firm.

history - bought this item early december from a fellow sau member, from my knowledge he never used it, and cant remember where he got it from. my plans were to put it on my r32 rb25, however as stated above, this manifold was designed for an r33 engine bay, in mine there is simply not enough room.

reason for sale - as stated above, didnt suit the application i intended it to. now im in the process of changing to top mount.

location - adelaide (north east).

p/up or delivery - would obviously prefer a local buyer, but if not freight can be arranged at buyers cost.

contact - ben (me) via pm, message here or call or txt me on 0438554500

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/255468-hks-cast-manifold-r33-rb25det/
Share on other sites

if someone can confirm it will fit rb20 im interested

the bolt pattern ie manifold-engine is exactly the same for rb20/25.

depends what turbo setup you want to use :)

as you can see my poor choice of trying to use internally gated did not work so well.

if u bolt an externally gated turbo you will have alot more room down stairs than i did.

Edited by theminuz

For the record i've got one of these manifolds fitted to my r34 rb25neo using an old hks t3 turbo. We had to shave the engine mount slightly but it fitted up easy enough. It's a great upgrade

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
×
×
  • Create New...