Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi,

Where would I be able to get replacement keys for my R34

My key is just a plain metal one, I am assuming it's the spare key(?)

Would I be able to go to a Nissan dealer and get a new key for a Nissan Maxima or something and it will fit?

Or do I need to get a Skyline one?

I know JustJap sell R34 GTR ones, but I don't have a GTR lol

H0564-AA410.jpg

Does anyone have a list of keys that it would be compatible with?

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/255769-replacement-keys-for-an-r34/
Share on other sites

Ok, I did a bit of googling, and it seems as if the R34 key is the same as this list:

(W11)

(Y11)

(T30)

(E50)

(Z10)

(B15)

(Y61)

(FY33)

(F50)

(S15)

(R34)

(V35)

(Y33)

(Y34)

(A33)

(C24)

(D22)

(V10)

(R50)

(JU30)

(P11)

(P12)

(WP11)

(P12)

(U14)

(G10)

(M12)

(U30)

(N30)

(JR50)

(JY33)

(C35)

(Z33)

Has anyone tried this?

give me your chassis number ECR34-?????? and I'll look it up in fast.

nissan is the best palce to get teh key ad the patrol key of the same era *should* fit. you have listed a patrol (Y61) and a navara ute (D22) in your list. Z33 is different.

$15? are you sure thats the right key? As in one with a transponder in it?

ER34/ECR34 do not have a transponder - Exception is the GTR. that does have one in the key.

anyone know which nissan dealer i can get the best price for the 80600M (PN H0564-C9920) ? obviously i want a blank one which then needs to be cut from my spare keys, and then encoded at a dealer with my radio frequency.

80600M is the ER34 master key with the buttons to unlock central locking which is what i need.

that's fine i can take care of the coding, can you get me a master key for around the $100 mark? the markup at dealers in vic is ridiculous.

I'll see. I have to call tokyo on monday anyway.

anyone know which nissan dealer i can get the best price for the 80600M (PN H0564-C9920) ? obviously i want a blank one which then needs to be cut from my spare keys, and then encoded at a dealer with my radio frequency.

80600M is the ER34 master key with the buttons to unlock central locking which is what i need.

I'm looking for a price for the 80600P (PN KEY00-00075) Key-Blank, Sub; 80600N (PN H0564-C9918) Key-Blank, Master; 80600NB (no PN) Key-Blank, Master; for a C34 Stagea RS4-S. The part codes & numbers I got from my version of FAST, it is a 2001 version.

If you could help me out that would be great.

Edited by Hanso
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks for the info. The only "Issue" I've had with the shifter is I always found the throw between 4th and 6th gear too close. I'm always worried to shift into 4th accidently and sending my motor to the moon. Adam LZ recently came out with a video and stated Serialnine revised their shifters to correct this and will change all the revised parts for 150$. Strangely enough, I contacted Serialnine right after and they denied it and said it's bullshit. I found that strange as he's a distributer. I'll keep this forum post updated on that saga.
    • Yep that is correct. It allows you to adjust the short throw range from what I can tell
    • Car has been running great, I've put about 300km's of break in time on it. First thing that stands out with properly sealing rings is no more noticeable crankcase smell coming out of my catch can. This may seem insignificant, but the constant smell while driving around was infuriating. It's also nice to see my oil level remain stable. Two new issues have developed that I only noticed this weekend though. There's a very noticeable driveline vibration past 100kmh. I only noticed it now as I've been babying it under 100kmh in the backroads. This comes as no surprise as I'm running a one-piece shaft, and I paid zero attention to my driveshaft angle when I put everything back in. I also have a fair bit of voltage drop on hot starts. The starter audibly is forcing. No issues on cold start though. I must not have removed all the paint under my main block ground during assembly. I'll try and take care of both those issues this week once the kids are asleep.  I also received all the parts I was missing for my direct port setup. I will hopefully have pictures of that up soon. I'm hoping to get back on the dyno the week of June 30th as I'll be on vacation. I'm confident I should be able to make north of 500rwkw on pump gas and WMI. I'll go back again later this summer with E98, but I want to confirm my ethanol content sensor is working properly first. I've never seen it read anything but 11%. This makes sense for our 10% ethanol content pump gas here, but I would expect the occasional movement between fill ups. 
    • 75% complete. Will now need to get a new axle with 5x114.3 hubs and then figure out how to customize some mudguards for it once the wheels are on.
    • Trailer prep is underway... Lined up the wheel to get a rough indication of how it would sit Then removed all the bits (as far as possible) and gave the frame a light sand and quick lick of paint   Then added some carpet
×
×
  • Create New...