Jump to content
SAU Community

More Power Out Of A Na

PRIMRK

By PRIMRK,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

N-DAWG Mentor

N-DAWG

Posted
Posted

Read those how to get more power threads.

Look at the power results threads to see the gains that have been had with different modifications (remembering that it costs a lot to get power out of an N/A)

The for sale Business Traders section is a good place to get prices from, and a lot of these sponsors give special pricing for SAU members: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Sa...aders-f141.html

Also have a look in private sale threads, you might find some good bargains.

For labour, none other than your local exhaust shop/performance workshops/tuners. I'm sure a brief search in the Vic forums will reveal some good tuners in your area, they'll be able to tell you how much what you want is going to cost.

To give you a rough idea though and a starting point (it sounds to me that you want a brief rough estimate of what these things can cost, and where to begin):

2.5" Catback Exhaust ($400-600 for a custom exhaust, depending on whether it's press bent or mandrel bends, the type of tip used etc..)

Hi-Flow Panel air filter such as a K&N Panel...or get a Pod style filter (non-oiled) box it up and run a Cold Air feed for best results...you'll probably find that you NEED to do that anyways in Vic, might be easier just to go with a panel and done. Allow $70-90 for one of those.

Extractors, allow up to a grand for a set of Coby's from NZ, or DKNE extractors from Aus, with HPC Coating and Install and Exhaust gasket.

Hi-Flow Cat <$200 for something suitable for an N/A

After that you then look at something to adjust air/fuel ratios if you want to fine tune it, maybe cam gears to adjust timing, add to that install costs and tuning for maybe a few more KW's. To be honest, with that level of modification the factory ECU after a reset (disconnect ground cable from battery, foot on brake for 5-10seconds, reconnect) will relearn quite well.

After all that it's the bigger stuff like camshafts, port polishing, etc... and then you're talking bigger dollars as not only do you need the parts, there's a lot of labour work involved when working on the engine internally particularly if you look at port and polish, then you WILL need engine management installed and tuned and just engine management and tuning alone can cost $1500+ easy depending on who tunes it and what you use.

Anyways, I'm basically repeating what I've said in the Apexi Power FC Vs Greddy eManage thread.

The above should point you in the right direction as far as a starting point is concerned. just don't expect your N/A Skyline to perform like a turbo Skyline, and don't expect huge results for your dollar spent. N/A performance is about relieving as much restriction as possible and trying to get air in and out of the engine efficiently as you don't have a turbo forcing massive amounts of compressed air through it.

Ps. If you want to know more about which exhaust to buy, what size etc.. I'll tell you know that it's been asked more times than I can recall, just do a search for that one ;)

GTS4WD Grand Master

GTS4WD

Posted
Posted

But before you stroll into the first store or web site and tell them you wanna buy, have a look for second hand items. They are a buttload cheaper and good quality parts in good condition can be easily found.

-FIGJAM- Grand Master

-FIGJAM-

Posted
Posted

that photo is mine... i found it and brought it to SAU first :)

That clicky cracks me up every time i see it. The funny thing to, the second page that is found is a link to the sticky in this forum..

Me thinks that someone was telling lies about the search button....

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      S1 rb25/s14 starting problem

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Check the injectors flow evenly, and are actually flowing what you and the ECU think they should be flowing. If it's starting up on starter fluid, you have a fuel issue. Is it possible under cranking your fuel pump is turning off?   The harness you replaced, is that the whole engine harness? Do yourself a test, and drop the old harness on and plug it into the Z32 ECU. It's possible they've wired things different. From memory S1 to S2 is different in RB25 and you may have a wrong loom
    • 25zenki
      S1 rb25/s14 starting problem

      By 25zenki · Posted

      I haven’t pulled the injectors to watch them spray yet but they are clicking from the cas and all of the spark plugs are wet with fuel. I’ve thought the cylinders were being flooded from the beginning and was hoping fuel pressure would fix it. Tonight I am going to pull the rail and watch the injectors spray. Don’t know how to test/diagnose if the plugs are firing in correct sequence but that should be a timing thing and as far as timing goes my car still has the half moon for the cas can only install it 1 way. And my mechanical timing is 100% correct I posted photos above. Confirmed with the balancer on and off. 
    • 25zenki
      S1 rb25/s14 starting problem

      By 25zenki · Posted

      I checked spark on all cylinders and they all visually have spark with the plug pulled and grounded, but plug 1 is the only one that fouled. This was a running swap that blew up and was rebuilt by a machine shop, put a new wiring specialties harness and did all gaskets, studs, and bolts while it was out.  compression is 135-150 across all cylinders. Aside from that from my understanding with the z32 ecu and maf the car should start regardless. The wiring for TPS and the dual 02 sensor/ dual knock sensor stuff shouldn’t actually stop the car from starting or even running well, (just slightly rich)  they just give fault codes. Car supposedly is supposed to start as long as you have z32 afm and ecu with the nistune base map and that’s info coming from a well known and trusted tuner who does a lot with SR/RB (Rsenthalpy). After more trouble shooting today where I’m at right now is that the cas is sending signal to the injectors they click while spinning the rotor, Fuel pressure is now set at 43psi, all cylinders have good compression and all of the plugs looked great (just wet with fuel) except for cylinder 1 which was very black (cylinder 1 has 150psi compression). all of the coils generate spark if pulled out and grounded out on the head. On the fuel pump car just pops into the exhaust. On starting fluid car will fire off. Hard to tell if all cylinders are firing off but definitley a couple. sounds like all of them but it’s only for 3-5 seconds hard to tell. 
    • DraftySquash
      Looking for someone with a R34 front bar

      By DraftySquash · Posted

      Final update!!! Got the front bar fitted and sprayed and all sorted now. My cutouts worked great and the indicators aren’t just falling off. 😂  
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      new 1.5 LSD issues/concerns

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Is this a brand new LSD? if so, have you followed any break/bed in procedure for it? Usually involves heaps of figure 8 patterns, a fluid flush.
×
×
  • Create New...