Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have the same thing.

Now as far as my understanding goes (and dont quote me on this, im sure someone can shed some more light on it) but it loops the powersteering system to trick the car into thinking its complete as you bypass the hicas system.

Is this true?

I had a quick look the other day (I still have to get a lock bar so im in no rush) I think it loops the system right near the powersteering canister.

Or am I completely wrong?

'just looked on a 300zx site and there is an identical part in the "instructions"

this part actually goes up where the front solenoid is after you remove it????????

thanks for the helpfull advice

at least know wtf you are selling! and where the f**k it goes

end rant

YES!

Thats what I was trying to explain without very good results.

If you end up stripping the entire system could you write up a lift of what was removed from where?

And rough weight?

Cheers mate,

Cris

  • 2 weeks later...

Mate i did away with the whole lot right back to the power steering pump. Everything got turfed. lines solonoids actuators, the lot. I even pulled the power steering pump out and pulled it apart and took the hicas impeller out. Actually playing around with an old one atm to ditch the whole rear section of the pump, machine the shaft and match the rear cover. All i've done for the moment is i've machined a bush to replace the banjo fitting on the pump to stop the oil from coming out. It's dimentions are 26mm OD 16.5 ID and 16mm tall. Probably cost 30 buck from a machine shop. :P

theres a long thread on hicas removal. sydneykid uploaded a lot of images & instructions. your fitting is maybe a replacement where he loops a hose

evocoop: howd the low speed handling change on your car with the hicas removed?? thinking bout doin the same, vept the pump part

mike

Edited by Mike__
theres a long thread on hicas removal. sydneykid uploaded a lot of images & instructions. your fitting is maybe a replacement where he loops a hose

evocoop: howd the low speed handling change on your car with the hicas removed?? thinking bout doin the same, vept the pump part

mike

I haven't actually drivin it yet. Still building it. Gotta be a good thing but cause it elimimates a variable is how i look at it.

Alls i did was buy a hicas lock bar from Just jap and made this little bush and chucked the rest in the bin.

post-34032-1235293658_thumb.jpg

  • 1 year later...

so did anyine find out where this jjr bypass actually go. i just got one, i have installed the lock bar and tried to fit the bypass to the rear solenoid but it definatley doesnt go there, i havent checked the fron solenoid or power steer pump yet, i ran out of daylight

I have just recently been through this. Installed the lock bar and removed lines back to the fail safe solenoid which is on drivers side in front of rear wheel.

Found that the JJR bypass would not fit at this point so looked at all other lines and fittings. Would not go anywhere else so removed the fail safe solenoid and took it to JJ.

Sure enough the problem was they had a batch manufactured that are inncorrect. They gave me another one and I test fitted it on the spot. Worked a treat.

Cheers,

Steve

I have just recently been through this. Installed the lock bar and removed lines back to the fail safe solenoid which is on drivers side in front of rear wheel.

Found that the JJR bypass would not fit at this point so looked at all other lines and fittings. Would not go anywhere else so removed the fail safe solenoid and took it to JJ.

Sure enough the problem was they had a batch manufactured that are inncorrect. They gave me another one and I test fitted it on the spot. Worked a treat.

Cheers,

Steve

I had the same problem a few months ago. I couldn't get it to fit, assumed that I wasn't installing it in the correct spot so I sold it. Now looks like I had it in the correct spot but the part was manufactured incorrectly.

I should write them a letter to get a refund or replacement. Most likely I will just end up buying another one.

I was scratching my head for ages thinking what are the chances that it almost fits in that spot but belongs somewhere else on the car.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Or, the height of the release bearing is not correct for your combo. Start with the bleeding and checking the slave moves throughout its range when you press the pedal (2 person required), but it is possible for the height to be internally wrong too (box back off to measure.
    • Yes, there's quite a few things that can go wrong during a clutch install. Very unlikely. I have a similar clutch. They (ACS) make good gear. No, it is not normal. It is possible that you just need to bleed the clutch slave. But the new clutch will also have a more aggressive actuation force/pressure, and so your old slave cylinder might be a bit leaky or otherwise compromised, and not up to the extra force required. Or the master cylinder, same.
    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
×
×
  • Create New...