Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 52
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

i think the good options bantered about are Apexi power fc, vipec or motec, motec being cripplingly expensive.

for your setup unless its full time motorsport i'd say Apexi power fc D-jetro would be the go.

you can turf the afm's and it is possible to program via laptop

vipec has anti lag, i'd prolly buy it for that alone but i already have a poer fc.

the motec you have a loom to contend with which will mean both splicing into your current cars wiring and some special wiring which ads to the cost and complexity. that said motec would have to be the best

Basic PFC - Simple, Easy to use, Cheap, Comes with commander where u can view your engine status

No lauch control, No anti lag and runs AIRFLOW sensoR!

Haltech E11V2 - Price now are cheaper and getting more affordable. So i would say this is the best ECU around.

Comes with everything, launch control, anti lag and yeah..it runs map!

AEM - Should be the same as Haltech E11 but with an extra traction control and its a lil' pricey.

MOTEC M600 - Buy it if youre a serious track goer and very nice data logging features.

Basic PFC - Simple, Easy to use, Cheap, Comes with commander where u can view your engine status

No lauch control, No anti lag and runs AIRFLOW sensoR!

Haltech E11V2 - Price now are cheaper and getting more affordable. So i would say this is the best ECU around.

Comes with everything, launch control, anti lag and yeah..it runs map!

AEM - Should be the same as Haltech E11 but with an extra traction control and its a lil' pricey.

MOTEC M600 - Buy it if youre a serious track goer and very nice data logging features.

the m800 has a faster board than the m600. its only $400 more expensive so id go that way between those 2.

a fully optioned m800 is going to cost u ~4-5k before you even install it. if ur serious thats the way to go, otherwise get the haltech e11v2

the m800 has a faster board than the m600. its only $400 more expensive so id go that way between those 2.

a fully optioned m800 is going to cost u ~4-5k before you even install it. if ur serious thats the way to go, otherwise get the haltech e11v2

Tuners are pulling MoTeC's out and putting Vi-PEC's in....superior ecu. Ring Scott at Insight if you would like a full explaination why he is doing this.

Mark Jacobsen even said last night he would like to pull his MoTeC out and run a Vi-PEC.

Haltech...lol

i'm yet to be shown how and why these vipecs/links are sooooo much better than a motec/haltech, u know i'm not going to jump ship with such little info paul.

show me solid evidence, and i mean tech specs as to why, then i may consider recommending and using them.

and dont get me started on marks tuning, yes he can tune big hp cars, but i've seen some bloody terrible streeters

i have and RB26 2.8 with twin apexi rx6's , im looking to get a programable ecu something like motec or microtech

has anybody got either and which one is better ?

the Motec is better by nautical miles :rolleyes:

/thread

that was easy...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
    • Pull codes via the self-diagnosis procedure. As far as I can tell this is just a sign of transmission issues but not a code unto itself.
×
×
  • Create New...