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this question always comes down to how much $$ u want to spend, and how much work u can do yourself.

cheaper (as stated) to buy 2nd hand rb26dett.

gazza- 15k for 450rwhp?

hopefully 15 k should get that as stock i was getting 350 with just zorst and boost controller

well awd adaptor plate is $900 + labour Fair call, but adapter plate labour isn't hugely significant in the rebuild process.

+ retap block for rb26 arp headstuds another $500 + labour For 400hp?

+ timing belt/tensioner kit $300 + labour Why? timing belts are <$50 and unless your tensioners are shagged you can reuse.

+ crank collar $150 + labour Fair call.

(going by pro engines pricing)

and any other nitty gritty things that you may need to fit a rb30 bottom end into a GTR

So, I forgot about the adapter plate.. the adapter plate is the only significant difference between putting a 30 in a gtst or a gtr.

For a basic build (400hp) I wouldn't bother with arp headstuds. Timing belts can be had a lot cheaper than pro-engines.

Crank collar would need to be done anyway unless the guy was going to buy a 33gtr crank.

I have been in a 4wd RB30 R32 and IMO the 3L goodness is worth the extra 1-1.5k. There's also a pair of -5's for sale which would go quite nicely on there :P

Seriously, if you only wanted the extra torque and not looking to put huge turbos on there, the build could be done in a weekend if you know what you're doing and have access to the right tools.*

*Providing you have all the parts ready to go. A workshop won't do it for you in a weekend though and would probably encourage a full forged build. Horses for courses, it all comes down to what you want to do with it and how much you want to spend. Just don't get talked into going overboard when it's not needed :)

Edited by bubba

His being a 93 model GTR i assume has a wide crank drive already

most engines this age are getting old and i wouldnt want to lose a 10k engine over a tensioner bearing or bolt etc

but in saying that even a pair of -5 produces close to 500awhp

then you have to lengthen the front pipe to accomadate the extra block height etc

lil stuff adds up :thumbsup:

His being a 93 model GTR i assume has a wide crank drive already

most engines this age are getting old and i wouldnt want to lose a 10k engine over a tensioner bearing or bolt etc

but in saying that even a pair of -5 produces close to 500awhp

then you have to lengthen the front pipe to accomadate the extra block height etc

lil stuff adds up :thumbsup:

Probably does already have the wide crank drive.

I was talking about a cheap build, not a 10k build. I wouldn't be skimping on tensioners if it was a 10k build.. because a few hundred dollars in the grand scheme of things, is nothing.

You don't necessarily have to change front pipe lengths etc, if there was enough clearance to the floorpan to begin with then it will more than likely be fine as 38mm at an angle over the length of the exhaust (from last hanger to firewall) will probably be sufficient. I didn't need to alter my exhaust at all :)

-5's don't HAVE to make 500awhp, the guy was looking for a figure of about 400hp which can be done without going to the 10k build extents. I suggested the -5's that are for sale because for 2.4k, it's a pretty bloody cheap bolt on turbo upgrade for the 26.

OR, to keep it cheap (meaning, not having to buy Jap stuff), 30 bottom end, highflowed turbos or some N1's if you can find them.

After having experienced a few twincam 30's now (and having one myself), I just feel that if you ARE going to rebuild, then a 3L bottom end is a no brainer!

but if your paying for a rebuild

machine work and labour is half the cost already

do it once do it right

if on the other hand you can do it urself

then i guess on the cheap is viable as u dont have to pay for labour when/if it blows up

thats how i see it anyway

but if your paying for a rebuild

machine work and labour is half the cost already

do it once do it right

if on the other hand you can do it urself

then i guess on the cheap is viable as u dont have to pay for labour when/if it blows up

thats how i see it anyway

Yeah but you don't have to go a 10k build just for the sake of it.. people have budgets and they have to work within those budgets, if that means not getting a $2k oil pump because you don't *need* it, then don't get it.

That's the way I see it, if it's not needed for the levels you want, then why waste the money when it could be better spent elsewhere?

Track levels are not street levels, as I have said a few times, the cost of a build is directly proportional to the power goals and the intended usage :P

Edited by bubba

10k is still a fairly basic rebuild (rb26)

last time i got quoted 5k for machine work, labour and R&R

still be using a N1 oil pump ~$500 these days

i do agree to build a car for whatever goal you set out to be

no point overkilling it

but if he wanted 400hp

wouldnt a set of -7 be better? more responsive so to speak

cheers for the input guys. i'll give c red a call about that rb26-30.

my car has done about 125000 kms for those who are wondering and i was just driving normally when it happened and BOOM there was no power when i was giving it throttle so i pulled over and when i listened to it idle it sounded like marbles in a tin can being shaken around. then it slowly died.

you guys have been really helpful :)

btw how much is a r34 motor and where can i find one?.

Edited by nism0man

or take this option

Brand New Modified Nissan R33 GTR N1 Engine - Nissan Skyline GTR

Professionally Assembled - 500PS Package

Our price: AUD 23000.00

http://justjap.com/store/home.php?cat=334

Edited by gazza750

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