Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

care to elaborate on wtf you are talking about ? so youd just dump it on the ground?? or are you gonna put a pump between the oil outlet on the turb and the sump ? like some cars with drainage issues have

oil pumps for the turbo oil return is only used when the turbo is mounted lower than the place the oil is being returned to (i.e. the sump).

the turbo will be mounted in factory position meaning that gravity will return the oil to the block/sump.

i was asking about whether the block was drilled and tapped for the turbo oil return line (factory return goes back into the block above the sump).

apparently no,

so i was asking about the downsides of returning the turbo oil drain to the lower sump as this is a part that can be removed and drilled and tapped a lot more easily than the block itself.

hope this clears up any misunderstanding

r34gtfour - thanks for your reply :)

if its easier for you to put a nossle or attachment on the sump for the oil drain that should be fine (you'll most likely need to weld the hose nossle on since the sump wont be thick enough to start a thread).

The 3SGTE from the celicas and mr2's run the same setup from factory, ie the turbo oil drain is near the very bottom of the sump, not on the bottom of the acutal block like the rb25's, and they dont have a problem with drainage.

But in saying that, it would be very wise to take the sump off regardless which path you take obviously because of the metal filings. So once the sump is off it would be just as easy to dril and tap the block in the same stock location as long as the exhaust manifold/junk has been removed. Personally i would do that, just to make it look neater, but thats me

i know yours is an r34,but my r33 rb25de has a bung for the turbo return,i take it you have fitted a turbo to an na,but some r33 rb25de's have not got the bung,some people tee into the oil return from the head.i just thought of something you could run the return to the drain plug on the sump but never known anybody to do it,although the return would be better over the oil level

how much clearance is there with the engine in the car to reach the factory boss?

with sr20's the engine has to be removed to get the access required to drill and tap the lower block.

yeah i meant welding a an attachment to the sump sorry.

to be honest i wouldnt have a clue, never drilled a return with the engine still in the car, i would imagine it to be a tight fit

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
    • Ok, disregard my “rate them” comment, sorry for my unrealistic input
×
×
  • Create New...