Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

As an opening special, Circuit Club has decided to book out a WHOLE weekend at the new MDTC, to get as many people as possible out there to try out the new revelation of a circuit!

Date: 7th and 8th March

Where: Marulan Driver Training Centre

Cost: $120 per person per day

Includes: Driver Training

Maximum of 30 drivers per day

For all bookings, please email [email protected]!

You can also check out the incar laps here - http://wp.circuitclub.com.au/?p=488

Yep. The road itself is smooth, but its on the side of a hill so there's a lot of gradient change.

There'll be no timing on the day (the MDTC guys don't permit it, anyway) and the instructor:driver ratio will be higher. It's about learning, not going flat out.

Details on the Touge Battle are finally released.

tougebattlered.jpg

tougebattlewhite-copy.jpg

Basically, we have been planning this for the last couple of months - and are very excited!

Since this is the very first time we are staging a Touge Battle, we decided that we should choose two cars of a very high standard, but with very different characteristics.

You couldn't ask for more differences than these two!

Saturday will be a practice day for the cars. Help them get used to the new track and set up their cars accordingly.

On Sunday afternoon, we will run a "best of 3" Touge Battle, with rules run identical to those in Best Motoring. Extend your lead and you win. Can't get away and you loose.

A single battle will be run over one lap of the MDTC, starting from the middle of the straight and ending at the same point.

For us, the biggest question is this - can Jacky Yick's Civic have a high enough cornering speed to beat the EVO? or Will the Tilton Interiors EVO just dominate proceedings with what is rumoured to be an 800hp engine?

Time will tell!

P.S. The Battle won't interrupt normal proceedings of our Training Day event.

So its not actually us driving our cars on the Touge thing, its all spectating.....?

Bobby: Maybe now that wakefield is out

Cool, let me know mate.

My understanding is that we'll be driving the track all day, as per the "driver training" but the actual "battle" they're referring to is only for show.

So its not actually us driving our cars on the Touge thing, its all spectating.....?

Bobby's right.

The "Touge Battle" will be the two "feature" cars only.

However, the weekend is about letting people go practice their skills, with driver trainers available if wanted, on the circuit. If you go and pay the $120, you'll drive. Just not for any measured ranking, whether it be position or time.

The touge thing looks like it'll be interesting to watch...you going down alan? I'm going to drive.

I'll be there on Sunday.

I am not sure if I will be driving, but I will spectate.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Next, remove the upper and lower radiator hoses, both are held with a spring clamp. While you are under there, tackle the Auto Trans cooler lines.  Again both are held on with spring clamps, and as mentioned above you should cap them on the radiator side with an 8mm cap, and on the car side loop them with a length of 8mm pipe - this will stop you losing a dangerous amount of AT fluid during the rest of the job If you've been meaning to add a sender for AT trans temp, this is a great time to do it; put a sender fitting into the passenger side line as that is the inlet to the cooler/radiator.
    • Next you need to remove the intake duct (as with pretty much every job on these cars), it is a series of clips you gently remove with a flat bladed screwdriver. They do get brittle with time and can break, and I have not found a decent quality aftermarket one that fits (they are all too soft or flimsy and don't last either) but the nissan ones are a couple of bucks each (ouch).  Once the clips are off (either 8 or 10, I didn't check) you lift the intake duct out and will see the reservoirs Undo the line into the radiator side cap (some bent needle nosed piers are awesome for spring clamps) and then remove the 4x 10m nuts that hold both in place.  I didn't get these pics, but remove the line under the radiator reservoir (spring clamp again) then remove that reservoir. Then you can get at the intake reservoir, same thing, spring clamp underneath then remove it. BTW This is a great time to put in a larger (+70%) combined reservoir that AMS makes..... https://www.amsperformance.com/product/q50-q60-red-alpha-coolant-expansion-tank/ They also make an Infiniti branded and part# version if that is your thing
    • To drain the Intake Heat Exchanger, there is a crappy drain plug in front of the driver's side front tyre: You should use the largest headed phillips screwdriver you had, and in my case I needed vice grips on the hose above as the plug was tight (tighter than it needed to be, since it has an o-ring seal).  After you have a tray down and open the drain, open the intake heat exchanger reservoir cap (drivers side one) and you should get a couple of litres of coolant To get to the radiator, you need to remove the plastic engine undertray. It is held on with a series of 10mm headed bolts and some clips. For the radiator, there is another type of crappy drain (kind of like a plastic banjo bolt) and you should attach a length of hose to direct the stream of coolant per this pic (otherwise the coolant hits the rad support and goes everywhere). The drain is on the rear of the radiator on the driver's side and a bit hard to find. Put a big tray or bucket down (5l won't be enough) and slowly unscrew the fitting by hand. You only want to remove it far enough for coolant to flow, it you unscrew it right out the whole fitting and direction pipe will come off and you will get a coolant bath (yum!). Undo the radiator reservoir cap and it should empty about 8l
    • So, this shouldn't be such a mission, but there were a few tricks so I thought I'd post up a DIY for it. This was on a Q50 Red Sport but I doubt any other V37 model is very different (maybe just less steps for the intake heat exchanger hoses) I pulled the radiator out to flush it because the car was running hot at the track, but obviously the same steps apply for changing a radiator for any reason including an upgrade. If you are removing the radiator, you of course need to drain and refill, so have 5+ litres of blue coolant ready. You also need to drain the intake heat exchanger to remove the radiator so you will need a couple of litres for that as well. You will also need something to deal with the auto transmission lines, I used 2x 8mm rubber caps on the radiator side, and a short length of 8mm pipe on the car side.....unless you can block these lines quickly you will loose AT fluid and it may be enough to hurt the transmission if you don't refill it. 2 other tools that really help dealing with coolant lines and spring clamps are Bent Needle Nose pliers Hose pliers Between them they will reduce the frustration (and injury) potential by about 1000% Other than that....lets go... "First, jack up your car". Yes really, and put it safely on stands. If you are not confident doing that you need to give this job to a mechanic
    • If the forester is anything like our old 2007 GTB Liberty, I could near on run ling Long's and "rate them", as no matter what, it just hung to the road, even when abusing it in a hard launch in the wet, or throwing it at corners.
×
×
  • Create New...