Jump to content
SAU Community

Rb25 Complete Bolt-up Turbo Kit

skysaresilver
 Share

Recommended Posts

skysaresilver Community Regular

skysaresilver

Posted
Posted

Hi All,

I'm selling off my turbo setup from my rb25 as it didn't suit the auto's drive style.. Went with a smaller HKS Turbo..

Turbo Kit's like new, whole lot is easily less then 1,000km old - Turbo now has a modifyed bellmount so that it plumbs upto stock R33 Turbo pipe.. (Can be returned back to 4" if required with lathe work)

The Kit will include all of the following;

1) Garrett GT2876R .86 Rear Housing

2) Low Mount Stainless Steel Manifold Modded To Suit The T25 Flange

3) Custom 3" Front / Dump Pipe In One To Suit This Turbo on a R33 - (Has Been Glass Blasted & Coated In 1000deg Spray Paint Recently To Avoid Any Rust Forming On Pipe)

4) All Braided Lines & Fittings (Oil Line Possibly Not Included ~ Will Need To Check Tomorrow)

Pretty much everything you need to bolt this straight onto your rb25 for a good increase in power with associated mods, the only thing it doesn't come with is gaskets (might have old ones if wanted), however these can be picked up from Nissan, Performance Shops or event eBay.

Turbo Kit is located in Albury. Happy To Post At Buyers Expense..

The turbo is in perfect condition with no shaft play. Like I said it's done Less Than 1,000Km's.

Looking For $1,100 plus any freight.

If i missed anything or you have any question let me know via pm or just reply and I'll get back to right away..

Best Regards,

Adrian

P.S. Will Try To Post Pics Tomorrow Morning

Link to comment
Share on other sites
restless Collaborator

restless

Posted
Posted

interested in the kit, although im just wondering why the bell mouth of the turbo was modified? , wouldn't you lose power? and how much would it cost to be changed back to 4"

"Turbo now has a modifyed bellmount so that it plumbs upto stock R33 Turbo pipe.. (Can be returned back to 4" if required with lathe work)"

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      Duncan's Race Car - The Most Overdue Build Thread On Sau

      By Duncan · Posted

      In other important race car news, instead of fixing the race car I changed the crank seals on the chainsaw, because wood burner Some damn tight (and lock tighted) m6 head bolts Who knew plastic crank cases were a thing! Quick tip, don't trust the youtube videos that say you can pull the old seals out with the head on in a husky 440e...not true, their crank seal tucks in behind the cover both sides. I'm not sure I'm a psychopath, but these things are damn loud....hope I can put all the bits back in the right place    Happily, it is now back to turning fallen trees into a combination of firewood logs and wood chips....just need a clear day to get into it properly
    • Murray_Calavera
      Never ending fuel pump drama

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      I've got 60L of e85 in there at the moment
    • Duncan
      Never ending fuel pump drama

      By Duncan · Posted

      Don't forget to make sure the tank is full to the brim before you try to replace the fuel pump too, that is an essential step.
    • Duncan
      Arm ball joint

      By Duncan · Posted

      No, 260RS/4wd stagea is 33 GTR/GTS4 double wishbone all round, not struts. The 2wd cars are confusingly strut front. At there rear there is one balljoint at the outer end of the lower control arm. If you have HICAS (my Stagea doesn't, but I think 260RS did, there will be a balljoint of sorts where the HICAS arm attaches to the rear of the hub At the front, there are ball joints either end of the lower control arm, plus the tie rod end for the steering arm
    • Duncan
      Thanks Santa (the neverending trials of the 400,000klm, 400kw, RB30, manual swapped Stagea)

      By Duncan · Posted

      So, 2 months later, I just couldn't see any way to be happy with that tank setup. Basically the baffle area is too big and too leaky, the sender was miles off and the no low fuel light thing really bugs me. Other than the fact the fuel hat could safely supply enough power to the pump, it was worse than factory. Biggest thing that bugged me is it would still run out of fuel in medium-high g corners from about 1/4 tank down which is annoying when you are trying to have a zoom, not to mention potentially engine killing if it gets just the right amount of lean-ness....and we've got a few of those corners in our round trip to town (well, bunnings...) So, credit to Frenchy's, they have put together a much better designed setup with what is effectively an in tank surge setup.   As it happens the actual hat is the same, so I switched the fittings across, re-used the single 525 pump, and added a spare pierburg lift pump that I had (must remember to replace that stock, it was a spare for the race car). The only real work to get it all done was to add a second power and earth to the hat which I did by going from a single output to double output relay (very low draw on the lift pump) and also the sender unit that clips into the factory pump holder was again way too loose (so I re-used the 2mm shims from the previous setup). Finally, I added the low fuel light sender from the factory cradle. So....I'll report back how it handles low fuel, and if the sender has any relation to actual fuel level in the tank....
×
×
  • Create New...