Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have finally found a cheaper dyno i want to buy.

Will read up to 360hp and around 400nm of torque. It is upgradeable past these limits and if all goes well i would do this upgrade.

Before I slap the money down just wanted to know how much interest the would be for very reasonable priced dyno access for diagnostics and tunning?

I will have the equipment for Nistune and shortly straight remaps.

Hire the dyno and do your own tuning or let my tuner do it.

We have a Motec Lambda meter and will be looking into a knock box aswell.

Will also then look into getting tuning equipment for PFCs and other ecu's.

Tell me your thoughts.

I think it would be a great service for the backyard DIYers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/258419-dyno-hire-how-much-interest/
Share on other sites

Its atleast 250kw+ so thats plenty for alot of people. I plan to upgrade the computer system asap so it will read alot higher. But also good for diagnostics not just power runs.

The actual physical hardware upgrade is only needed for hold higher loads and not straight power runs

Basically, 250rwkw is what most people are making (who don't still have stock turbos), my stag is making almost that and my 32 will be making a lot more than that soon. It's a great idea but you will need to look at getting the upgrades asap.. no point in offering people tuning facilities if they can't make full use of them :(

Is it a 4wd dyno? if not, that counts out anyone with 33/34gtrs and Stageas.

Who is "your" tuner? what does he have experience with? (engines and ecu's).

Its only 2wd. And yes will look at doing the computer upgrade as soon as i can.

My friend is the tuner. He has experience working with Nistune/remaps and also motec's(race/tarmac rally cars)

He does all the work on my cars apart from the tunning which i do but with his guidance.

I'm mainly aiming this for now at people on a budget but still want to do thing right.

Not just skylines. 180's, silvias. Also looking at remaps for fords/holdens as i've worked with them previously and the software wasn't too bad apart from the lack of real time tunning but that can be figured out with a moates emulator which i plan on getting.

After the upgrade would then like to get software for newer fords and holdens. But for now just want to start out slow and go with what i know.

As i said computer system will be upgraded asap i want handling for minimum 450rwkw.

Dyno will be located in Balga and probably looking around the $50 - $60 per hour range

I'm not after big earning just want my own dyno as i want to do all tuning on my cars my self and for friends.

If i make enough money to pay it off and upgrade then i will be happy as.

Also quite happy to let it be used for a dyno day and community type things for free(Beer would be nice :(

Tune up session before drift/drags that sort of thing.

Oh and really wanna get working my mine and my friends banshees on it. Jetting the cards is a complete bastard having to take it out and test after every change.

Would be handy for run ins aswell. I could rebuild 10 banshee engines in the time it takes to do the run in

Edited by Crans

hope you realise all the hassles you will have from your local council regarding noise etc

you will have to build a dyno specific room with sound proofing etc as it will be in a residential area

noise abatement laws are fun

In City Of Gosnells

only 1HOUR per day permitted of noise not considered as every day noise

Found all this stuff out because my neighbour is a drummer and no more than 1 hour per day between 9 a and 4 pm is permitted

NO abnormal noise l outside those hours is permitted

So I really think you will need to contact the City Of Stirling to find out what their noise policy is

hope you realise all the hassles you will have from your local council regarding noise etc

you will have to build a dyno specific room with sound proofing etc as it will be in a residential area

noise abatement laws are fun

In City Of Gosnells

only 1HOUR per day permitted of noise not considered as every day noise

Found all this stuff out because my neighbour is a drummer and no more than 1 hour per day between 9 a and 4 pm is permitted

NO abnormal noise l outside those hours is permitted

So I really think you will need to contact the City Of Stirling to find out what their noise policy is

Not to mention insurances.

Property and Personal.

big shed + perth heat + cheap install = sad sad dyno

the cost of the dyno is not the issue with running the dyno , a decent install if you want to be able to run your dyno frequently during the day will set you back 50k minumum for a decent cell setup with fans , extraction and sound proofing . on top of that commecial rents , insurance , public liability and indemnity etc etc etc . plus if its not a dyno dynamics no import guy cares anymore and no 4wd cuts out a lot of work also.

lol @ the people thinking it cant read your cars hp!!!!

i bet a good 9.9/10 of you would be lucky to get close to that max

sounds alright.. but all depends on value and what autoworx said **big shed + perth heat + cheap install = sad sad dyno**

lol @ the people thinking it cant read your cars hp!!!!

i bet a good 9.9/10 of you would be lucky to get close to that max

*

my stock unopened R32 GTR makes 342 @wheels and mine would be one of the stockest GTR's in Perth so i am sure 75% of the lines on here will make 350

here is a sample from MEMBERS area 6 out of the ten make 0ver 350

then all the non member cars you will find 350 hp @ wheels is considered very low these days

SAUWA Top 10

Outright Power

1: Gav - DynoDynamics - 93 R32 GTR (2.8L) - BP98 - 574rwhp

2: Mr Keets - DynoDynamics - 89 R32 GTR - BP98 - 430rwhp

3: Ossie21 - DynoDynamics - 95 R33 GTS-t - BP98 - 407rwhp

4: bnr#@ - DynoDynamics - 92 R32 GTR - BP98 - 381rwhp

5: R33GTRKid - DynoDynamics - 97 R33 GTR - BP98 - 380rwhp

6: Pattygtst - DynoDynamics - 96 R33 GTS-t - BP98 - 364rwhp

7: gazza750 - DynoDynamics - 93 R32 GTR - BP98 - 342rwhp

8: Topaz - DynoDynamics - 93 R32 GTR - BP98 - 331rwhp4

9: Pal - DynoDynamics - 94 R33 GTS-t - BP98 - 307rwhp

10: inthisglass - DynoDynamics - 96 R33 GTS-t - BP98 - 300rwhp

Edited by gazza750

I am only looking at running the dyno 1 day a week + weekends if needed so in no way a full time job. Its something i love and would like to help otheres out with

Who said anything about a cheap install??

It might be DIY but with a boilermaker in the family(brother) who was worked for years on commercial sheds + Old but still working commercial air con things would be quite comfy

Sounds proofing isnt a big deal neither are extractor fans.

There are plenty of people with lightly modified cars that are no where near 360hp. And im guessing alot of them have never had there cars tuned either but would like to.(Put off by hugh costs)

We are also planning a custom interceptor air fuel controller similar to the apexi safc but with full 3D mapping.

I am also working on an incar computer system purely for engine monitoring and datalogging with touch screen interface if needed. Currently in development in my 32 gtr.

Also in the first stages of planning is modifying the firmeware of the stock ecu's to bring in ignition cut and 0kph rev limiter(Launch control).

Sobasically these are all hobbies of mine that i want to share round and help people with.

If any one has a big shed with no near by houses i would gladly chuck the dyno in there :) if it made it easier

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
×
×
  • Create New...