Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

lol @ the people thinking it cant read your cars hp!!!!

i bet a good 9.9/10 of you would be lucky to get close to that max

uh.. ok then..

my stock unopened R32 GTR makes 342 @wheels and mine would be one of the stockest GTR's in Perth so i am sure 75% of the lines on here will make 350

here is a sample from MEMBERS area 6 out of the ten make 0ver 350

then all the non member cars you will find 350 hp @ wheels is considered very low these days

SAUWA Top 10

Outright Power

1: Gav - DynoDynamics - 93 R32 GTR (2.8L) - BP98 - 574rwhp

2: Mr Keets - DynoDynamics - 89 R32 GTR - BP98 - 430rwhp

3: Ossie21 - DynoDynamics - 95 R33 GTS-t - BP98 - 407rwhp

4: bnr#@ - DynoDynamics - 92 R32 GTR - BP98 - 381rwhp

5: R33GTRKid - DynoDynamics - 97 R33 GTR - BP98 - 380rwhp

6: Pattygtst - DynoDynamics - 96 R33 GTS-t - BP98 - 364rwhp

7: gazza750 - DynoDynamics - 93 R32 GTR - BP98 - 342rwhp

8: Topaz - DynoDynamics - 93 R32 GTR - BP98 - 331rwhp4

9: Pal - DynoDynamics - 94 R33 GTS-t - BP98 - 307rwhp

10: inthisglass - DynoDynamics - 96 R33 GTS-t - BP98 - 300rwhp

My ~250rwhp RB30 is making nearly 400Nm of torque.. that's getting pretty damn close to maxing out the figures Crans provided.. it's all about the torque :)

Crans, I highly suggest you ring your council.. most have regulations/requirements for when conducting a business from home. I have recently looked into a "Home Occupation" in regards to conducting firearms repairs from home. Obviously your council will differ somewhat, but there will be requirements you have to meet. I would be talking to the council before going any further as if they don't like it, you'll have to pull down whatever you've put up.

The location has been running as an engineering shop for at least 15 years including manufacturing of gyrocopters so there should be no problem there.

And as I said expected use only 2 - 3 hours a week. More than likely mostly on the weekend.

Well it is going in a back yard but its a big shed that has previously been running as a mechanical type business.

Thought id add another project to the list that we will be working on. Fuel injection system for Yamaha Banshees and possable other 2 stoke bikes.

Ahh a fellow banshee owner where do you ride?

What problems are you having?

We can totally strip the bike rebuild engine tune carbs all the normal stuff.

Recently did a top end rebuild on my bike hone rings bearings same pistons as they were perfect still and boy she is an animal now

I'd also be interested...

I've got an R32 GT-R, so easy enough to drop into RWD mode... and you'd only be about 10 mins from home too... So long as its capable of reading the power and torque produced, i'd be happy.

I've got some adjustable cam gears i've yet to adjust... much easier on a dyno than on the street :-o

One suggestion... make sure your dyno is setup so the car sits level, otherwise you can get oil starvation problems on some cars. Seems to be 'trendy' to have cars slanted front down, tail up on RWD dynos... not very clever.

I would be keen. My mrs has a very mild 350 chev in a Trans Am, i know the carby is running all over the place. An hour or two on a dyno would allow me to sort most if not all of it out.

So i would be happy to use your services should you get it all set up.

Good luck :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • New CAS just turned up from NZ Wiring. Looks like a nice bit of gear.  So, yeah. Triggered, bro. Realised I may as well do the cam belt while mucking about with it so will order one of them.
    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
×
×
  • Create New...