Jump to content
SAU Community

Rb26dett - Oil In Turbo, Intercooler, Spark Plugs !?


Recommended Posts

Hi guys, here is a chain of events of my problem :

1)Experienced misfiring/engine stalling but no BLUE smoke.

2)Checked plugs to find them all oily.

3)Compression test OK.

4)Removed stock airbox - MAF sensors, Filter, Hoses all oily.

5)Removed hose at Turbo compressor to find a pool of oil contained there (refer to diagram).

6)Removed intercooler pipes - more oil flooded in there.

7)Removed Turbos to check - exhaust side is DRY.

8)Blowby control valve - need to check?

9)Turbo oil supply/return pipelines, hoses - OK, no blockage.

Engine is FULLY a stock setup (including crankcase vent. hoses and PVC etc.) except for the N1 oil pump and Tomei oil restrictor in the Block.Prior to the rebuild, piston #5 and #6 cracked, and I forgot to check whether that could cause a residue of oil in the intercooler, which I did not drain out.First thing came to my mind was that the Turbo SEAL could be defective, but on the other hand, the exhaust wheel is DRY.

Secondly, would the residual oil in the intercooler be re-circulated back to the intake/turbo??

Lastly, I suspected that the oil could leak past the new piston rings but that would be very unlikely because compression test passed and the exhaust ports on the cylinder head are dry.

CIMG5315.jpg

I am desperately seeking ANY help or useful INFO out there,and I really don't know what else to check or do because I just bought the car. Thanks a million and I would greatly appreciate it...

CLean it all out manualy, im sure its blow by, i had it in mine and was stressed thinging id done a turbo, im guessing its in the rear turbo as well,

Get a catch can bruv and moniter it.. if continues ya blown a seal somewhere take stright to the shop avoid damage..

Check item 8 first. Make sure the thing works properly or you will have the problems you described. A failed blowby control valve will allow oil to get into the turbo compressor housing & leak onto the exhausts after a while. So, does the thing stink of oil when you are waiting at the traffic lights?

But yes if you cracked two pistons & didn't clean anything afterwards you may well have left over oil in the system. However it shouldn't take too long to for it to disappear. Mostly it just leaks out of the bov's.

Thanks for all the valuable advice and suggestions...I disassembled all the piping and cleaned out the entire system...plenty of residue oil in the recirculation tube! After flushing and checking everything mentioned, my engine now runs normally again. I am monitoring for any blowby in the meantime but have not yet fixed the oil catch tank...until really necessary.

Check item 8 first. Make sure the thing works properly or you will have the problems you described. A failed blowby control valve will allow oil to get into the turbo compressor housing & leak onto the exhausts after a while. So, does the thing stink of oil when you are waiting at the traffic lights?

I noticed this with my R33.. never thought anything of it, but have recently installed a catch can (blocked PCV and breathers vented to can) I cant say i recall smelling it anymore! Maybe mine was broken too.

I noticed this with my R33.. never thought anything of it, but have recently installed a catch can (blocked PCV and breathers vented to can) I cant say i recall smelling it anymore! Maybe mine was broken too.

I don't understand why people want to block up the blowby control valve when they fit a catch can. If it is done properly you still retain the functionality of the valve.

I don't understand why people want to block up the blowby control valve when they fit a catch can. If it is done properly you still retain the functionality of the valve.

What if its broken?

I bought the can from RIPS in NZ, and they have alot of huge powered Skylines, i think a 1100HP Street legal R34 too. So i trust their methods :wacko:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Lamb roast on Saturday will be different 🥲
    • They are under bucket shims. Tomei provides a test shim kit and then any measurement of shim required. 
    • I always wondered how you were supposed to buy a set of 24 buckets and somehow magically have every single one of them yield exactly the desired clearance. I would have thought you'd need to assemble a cam with either 12 "sample" or "example" buckets of known top thickness (or a single such sample/example 12 times over!!) measure clearances at every valve, and then do the usual math to work out what the actual "shimness" of each bucket needed to be, before buying the required buckets to make up he thicknesses that you didn't have on hand.
    • I now seem to be limited in power due to my rev limit/hydraulic lifters in my built RB25. I'm looking into converting over to Tomei solid lifters. Question for anyone that has done the conversion. I was always under the impression that when using the Tomei solid lifter conversion, you would also require new valves (Longer or shorter stems, I can't remember which).  I don't know where I got this idea, as so far I see no mention of this in any of the Tomei documentation. It just states I need the Tomei solid buckets, solid lifter cams and upgraded springs. As my head is already built, all I would need is another set of 1000$ Kelford cams, 500$ buckets and about 4H hours of my time installing and I'm off to the races!?!? There's no way it's that simple, I must be missing something? 
    • I couldn't agree more. I should have started from the get-go with a NEO or solid bucket conversion. I started looking into converting over to solid lifters yesterday. Now for some reason I was always under the impression that when using the Tomei solid lifter conversion, you would also require new valves (Longer or shorter stems, I can't remember which).  But I see no mention of this on any of the Tomei documentation. It just states that I need the Tomei solid buckets, solid lifter cams and upgraded springs. As my head is already built, all I would need is another set of 1000$ Kelford cams, 500$ buckets and about 4H hours of my time installing and I'm off to the races!?!? There's no way it's that simple, I must be missing something? 
×
×
  • Create New...