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Yeah in the end I figured out how to hold the belt under tension by myself when slipping the gear on, but there was one point where I got a friend to keep it under tension while I fiddled with the gear and it was much easier.

Whatever the case, 2 hours workshop time seems to be a bit of a rort. But I've had 2 different quotes from 2 different (somewhat reputable) workshops and they both seemed to think it was a much bigger job than it really is. One said that the PFC tune would cost an additional $150 because they would fiddle with the gear timing between runs to get the optimal setting. So that's around another 2 hours of gear fiddling?!

HI guys

Don't know if you guys noticed this or not but my EGT seems to be reading a bit colder after installing the cam pulleys at 2 and 4.It used to register 600'c or so on cruise speed but now it's at 500'c

Anyone has this similar reading on their EGT?

I have also increased the AFC to 4% increase across the RPM range too.

What should be the ignition timing to go with this setup? mines on an advanced timing.

Has anyone done more than 2 and 4?

JimX, Most of the workshops would do it properly and take the timing belt off, which involves removing the radiator and harmonic balancer off etc. We just do it the quick way, which is fine aslong as you don't let the belt jump a tooth:D

EnricoPalazzo, $160 is the workshop labour price I was quoted (2 hours) from a workshop.

GTS-t VSPEC, I don't know why the workshop would bother removing the timing belt unless they were going to change it. If you were going to pay for that, you may as well change the belt while it's all off, even if it's not yet due. Mine still looks brand new after 20k km ;)

  • 1 month later...
How do you know whats 4 degrees, i just bought one and cant see anything.  Do i just guestimate?

Eeeckkk.. Don't guess....

Isn't there any degrees marking on it???

If not, then I'm stuffed... I know 3 degrees isn't very much at all. Like about 1-1.5mm at the most.

I remember adjusting it to 3 degrees and looking at how much it was moved and thinking to myself "ummm, are they sure that's gunna make a difference !!".

But sure enough it did.

J

The marks will be at about 10 o'clock on the inlet side, and 2 o'clock on the exhaust side.

With the crank at TDC, and adjustable exhaust cam gear set at zero, you need to get the 'dot' on the inlet cam to line up with the 'dash' on the cam cover backing plate that's at 10 o'clock.  Then get the 'dot' on the exhaust cam wheel to line up with the 'dash' at 2 o'clock on the cam cover backing plate.

J

is this the same for the RB20DET? Thanks

Eeeckkk..  Don't guess....

Isn't there any degrees marking on it???

If not, then I'm stuffed...  I know 3 degrees isn't very much at all.  Like about 1-1.5mm at the most.

I remember adjusting it to 3 degrees and looking at how much it was moved and thinking to myself "ummm, are they sure that's gunna make a difference !!".

But sure enough it did.

J

I can find zero, but they said you'll have to tune it on a dyno, so i might move it a mill or something. Looks like anything negative to 4 degrees is going to improve somewhat. :wassup:

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