Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys i have a rb25 neo in my 31 and i just got it wired up, it ran all good for a while but now it idles real bad and just dies, but then when i unplug the air flow meter the idle is fine but its up at 1500 rpm what i think is normal with no afm. So does this mean my air flow meter is stuffed and it couldnt really be any thing else??

thanks heaps guys

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/259158-rb25-neo-problem/
Share on other sites

Its pretty much only got the dump pipe from the turbo cos the zorst isnt quite finished. but it doesnt look like any smoke at all.

I though it could also be just cos it doesnt have the zorst on but it run all good for a while with out it (just moving it in and out the drive way). then i tried the afm.

Edited by datto_sw

i think honestly you may have a boost leak! seams to be the same problem i had! im not an rb wizz but the 20s have a charcoal canister, which has some rubber pipes running to the inlet manifold near the stock bov! i found with mine that the pipes had a split or something, we plug mine up and the car idled better! also you can get it tuned(or remapped ) and have the idle set higher from memory

i don't know why a NEO would be different to standard 25 but without AFM on mine engine she wont start and if i unplug it while its running it dies

Exactly what i was thinking Steve....

I'd still be trying what Damo said and clean your afm but i'd be checking to make sure all ur pipes/clamps/etc etc are all connected and done up properly and it is the correct AFM for that motor isnt it?? Is there any difference between a neo AFM and a normal 25 AFM????

i don't know why a NEO would be different to standard 25 but without AFM on mine engine she wont start and if i unplug it while its running it dies

My rb20 done the same (stayed on when i unplugged the afm) everyone has told me that the computer evens it self out but ya cant rev it over 3000 rpm cos it dies.

The car goes in to get the zorst finished tomorrow then to turbo tuen wednesday so ill just get them to have a sus.

thanks for everyones helps.! :blink:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If you have a RB25DET NEO AWD motor, you will need this: https://www.hioctanedirect.com/ASR-RB26-RWD-Street-Comp-6.5L-Sump-Suit-R32/33/34-and-VL It is made for the AWD motor, but makes it fit a RWD setup and gives you a new pickup. Just one thing, the pickup sits quite forward, compared to a conventional RB25DET RWD motor. This may or may not have contributed to my previous AWD -> RWD shitting the bed at the track.
    • My car is also flex tuned. It's worth mentioning it (the LS1 ECU) has a 1D table for E85 addition and just uses the ethanol stoich part as the second point of reference. It also as a 3D timing map for Ethanol adjustment. You would think this isn't enough but it works pretty damn well. That said, I wouldn't want it in turbo application. It's like lifting non-natty, or taking meth. It gets you unrealistic results that break down more things going forward. If people used it to make the same amount of power they do on 98 then it'd be one thing. But people use it, crank it up to eleventy million PSI, it doesn't knock - but it pushes the point of failure to another, more expensive thing to break. Every time I see someone make 280kw on 98 and 350kw on E85 on the same equipment I just cry a bit and really wish they would just stay on 98 in that exact scenario. It's bad for you. 
    • This is kind of what I was thinking but the temp sender wire and the two pressure switch wires run through the starter subharnes and I eliminated the two pressure switch wires completely.  @GTSBoy I have a can gauge with unusually bright warnings should the oil pressure fall so the factory light isn't needed. I need to dig out my wiring diagram and see if I can sort this out.
    • It's a valid point. And it is doable with the Nistune. But I'm not inclined to flex it the way Nistune does - certainly not on a Neo ECU. They're already pernickety enough to tune just one one fuel. And of course, I'm not that interested in putting in a Link or similar, on a daily. With the stock ECU, stock looking turbo, etc etc, I still stand a chance of surviving a run-in with the plod. Last time it went over the pits (which was for the transplant, for because of a run-in with the plod), the Nistuned ECU did not even raise an eyebrow. They want to see a stock ECU running the engine, and they are happy to see it do so without the check engine light** on. Never mind that the Nistune is necessary to make the stock ECU work in a different chassis without ABS, TCS, etc. **And they actually provoke the CEL to come on by disconnecting the AFM, to prove that the globe hasn't been pulled!
    • This is why you flex fuel it...
×
×
  • Create New...