Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i have a squeak too (well more of a slight whine like something rubbing) and it wasnt what i originally thought it was :D

i thought it was one of the fan belts rubbing against the cam belt cover as there was some wear on that.

but i got the cam belt and the cover replaced (my first gift to my car) and it wasnt that

it only happens "sometimes" when i turn the car on and idle it. and sometimes when i'm idling after i've been driving it.

never during driving :banana:

i have a squeak too (well more of a slight whine like something rubbing) and it wasnt what i originally thought it was :)

i thought it was one of the fan belts rubbing against the cam belt cover as there was some wear on that.

but i got the cam belt and the cover replaced (my first gift to my car) and it wasnt that

it only happens "sometimes" when i turn the car on and idle it. and sometimes when i'm idling after i've been driving it.

never during driving :(

the engine fan can make a howling/whining kinda sound when it starts to fail. i did a quick search, check out this thred it might be able to help you out.

Loud Engine Fan

the engine fan can make a howling/whining kinda sound when it starts to fail. i did a quick search, check out this thred it might be able to help you out.

Loud Engine Fan

i'll check that tonight... but i have a feeling it might be one of the belts in the front slipping slightly. might get them replaced ASAP and see if its still having a 'whine' at me :) haha (does that mean my car is female? :( )

Edited by atomaly

Well, I did the bolt bit but did not pry the seals out, just took springs off, and inox. I tried to get the seals out but was worried about stuffing them. Will get one from Nissan, then got to bearing co. to get other three. Cheapskate!

Just an adder, had a bit of trouble getting the bolt back in. Used stiltsons to twist to help line up then bolt was easy fit.

Still "sqeaks" a bit.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Waaay ahead of ya....(evil laugh!!) Will show the fitment and spec details later when it isnt as rainy !
    • Thanks Dose.....    I appreciate it!!
    • I'll probably be putting the shit box back on the dyno again soon, I want to dial in the closed loop boost control properly. I'll have a camera facing the car/motor for fun too. Just note, there are essentially 3x 10AN inlets going into the catch can and 1x going back to the intake pipe. Most of the time the catch can "return" to the sump actually is the crank case breather, pushing air out.
    • I have the R3C with a Nismo slave and by no means does it behave like a stocker, it ain’t THAT bad. On take off just give a bit more throttle than you would say a coppermix and it’s fine. It will not slip though.   
    • Okay. Final round of testing done. Got a friend to hook up a fancy scanner to the car and we also ran some compression and leakdown tests, she is healthy.  The MAF was definitely the culprit. So for future reference anyone with similar issues that find this thread. I suggest the following steps, in order of affordability:   Check your spark plugs for any fouling, replace plugs if they are bad or re adjust the gaps making it narrower (0.8mm would be good). Check every coil's resistance with a multimeter. It can be done by probing the IB and G pins on the coil pack. Resistance should be around 1.4 (+/- 0.1) Ohms Check the MAF. If you have Nissan connect or a good scanner with the 14 adapter it should allow you to see the voltage on the MAF reading should be around 1.1 - 1.2V when car is idling. But if you don't, buy a new MAF from Amazon and test, then return it. (For instance, I got a Chinese one for $40 that was reporting 1.3v on idle). If you still have scanner, you can run tests on the injectors to see if they are working, just remember to unplug the fuel pump fuse/relay and have no pressure on the line. Then listen for the noises that the injectors make. Clean/replace injectors as needed. Once you find the issue and fix, order thousands of dollars worth of OEM parts to refresh unrelated things (Optional)   PS: Thanks to the absolute legends of this forum for the responses and help to someone that went a bit over their head. (me)
×
×
  • Create New...