Jump to content
SAU Community

Slip Light Blinks On High Speed

lcy
 Share

Recommended Posts

lcy Rising Star

lcy

Posted
Posted

Hi guys,

Was wondering if anyone knows what is wrong with the SLIP light on my dashboard, it blinks on high speed and i also lose power everytime it does this.

The car is a r34 gt-t and the SLIP indicator is related to the TCS (traction control system?). This happens only on straight road and high speeds ( 3th n 4th gear mostly).

Took to the mechanic and he reckons its some g sensor on the car. Does the r34 gt-t have a G sensor?

Any help will be much appreciated. THanks!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/259504-slip-light-blinks-on-high-speed/
Share on other sites
TKR Community Regular

TKR

Posted
Posted

uber wheel spinning at high speeds :D ... i have no idea sorry sounds very strange, not sure if the tcs runs with wheel speed sensors check each hub ( if they have them ) maybe could be a issue but i just stabing in dark =]

OON80 Enthusiast

OON80

Posted
Posted

I have the same problem. Same tyre sizing, same power and I have noticed that it happens more with more weight (people, cargo) in the car. I'm worried that the plates in the tranny are slipping. I'll admit though, it's more prone at higher speeds than you stated and when revs are between say 4000rpm to 5500rpm.

  • 4 years later...
MrFijiGold Veteran

MrFijiGold

Posted
Posted

I have the same issue on my 34 GTT (running on 34R wheels). I have this issue at high speed and I drop down a gear to overtake or sprint off.

My solution is turn off the TCS. Its now a normal start up procedure for me. Haha.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Yeah, plenty of air flow, there is a dedicated path that feeds the air in to the OEM intake tube behind the bumper As for a "tangible effect", maybe, but getting the pod/intake air out of the hot engine bay is worth it psychologically to me, even if it gives no performance difference, so the tangible effect in my Lizard brain saysss yessss  In the end, to me a tangible effect isn't always about performance, sometimes it a sound or a look, or even a...... feeling  Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga
    • Duncan
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By Duncan · Posted

      yeah first and reverse is where you will find clutch release issues (whether hydraulic or mechanical) because the difference in revs required is the highest there; particularly changing down from 2nd to 1st when still moving. To be clearer though, it is possible that the clutch release bearing is the wrong height. This is less likely than a hydraulic issue but it is not unheard of when you are mixing and matching
    • Duncan
      NC MX5

      By Duncan · Posted

      Quite right, if you make it to that pension you deserve every cent
    • jtha7
      Replacing turbo water line - any recommendations or advice?

      By jtha7 · Posted

      Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • MBS206
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By MBS206 · Posted

      From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
×
×
  • Create New...