Jump to content
SAU Community

Rb20 Turbo Rotation

Unkn0wn
 Share

Recommended Posts

Unkn0wn Enthusiast

Unkn0wn

Posted
Posted

Has anyone ever rotated the exhaust and intake of the rb20 turbo.

i had to to fit mine to numerous things and i must be doing it wrong, as they seem to last about 1-2 months before a seal is broken and oil is spilling into my engine.

given this is the second time, i dont want to have to take the next one off in a few months i want it to last.

Christian

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/259559-rb20-turbo-rotation/
Share on other sites
Slide Grand Master

Slide

Posted
Posted

The exhaust housing has a fire plate underneath the exhaust housing, rotating this providing you don't chip the ceramic turbine wheel will give no problems.

The compressor housing has a metal gasket which has a sealer paste holding it in, spinning this can sometimes push the dried paste into the line of the compressor wheel. Not so common.

Where you would go wrong though is if when you spin the housings the cartridge is not North/South with the oil intake above and oil drain below you may run into problems as the junk in the oil stays in parts of the cartridge and cannot be gotten rid of and is constantly lubricating the bearings.

Other then that, they are 20 years old, they have done their job and are and will all eventually die.

All contact style bearings especially when combined with a ceramic turbine will fail after this amount of time and in many case much sooner.

If your oil pressure is poor to the turbo and its not lubricated properly you will fry the seals and they will wear down without the oil buffer.

Take some pictures of the turbo that failed and it could show the problem.

Unkn0wn Enthusiast

Unkn0wn

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Hi

Thanks for all the info.

The reason i rotated it was to have the oil on top and the drain below, as it was fittest to a patrol not a skyline.

It has been blowing oil into the intake. its been doing it for about 2-3 weeks i guess but on the weekend it was blowing so much the diesel engine was 'missing'. It was shooting so much oil into the intake the poor diesel engine dident have enough diesel in the cylinders to compress / combust correctly.

I will post pics when i remove it on the weekend.

Christian

Slide Grand Master

Slide

Posted
Posted

It may very well be coming from the breather at the head caused by blow by.

Check the down pipe that runs into the turbo intake for oil or setup a temporary catch can just to see if it is the cause if you have not looked at this.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Rb26/30 build

      By MBS206 · Posted

      And if you want more power, more reliably, and cheaper, go get the Aussie RB... The 4L Barra and put that in instead.
    • MBS206
      Nismo rear spats

      By MBS206 · Posted

      No cats will keep discolouring the rear bar. Sends white paint a weird yellow stain. Cut and polish normally gets it out, but you'll be doing that every fortnight I found.
    • Butters
      Rb26/30 build

      By Butters · Posted

      Both heads will be equally reliable or unreliable depending on what you do to them.  Stock the RB26 head will flow more. You have access to the stock intake ITB manifold on the RB26 cheaply which flows really well(1000hp+).   Arguably more aftermarket support for RB26, though in Aus we love our RB30 SOHC heads too.    The only downsides to the RB26 head is if you have a VL commodore and want to keep the SOHC look.  Where you may have an issue is drilling out the rb30 block for the bigger head studs but if you are building a big power motor you'd probably put bigger studs on the SOHC head too.  This is just about finding a good machine shop, sometimes easier said than done.  RB30 head worked can make big power just like a Rb26 head, so really it actually more comes down to what your preference is for your car.  People now even making billet versions of both.
    • GTSBoy
      Rb26/30 build

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      2630s work perfectly well. There is something to be said for just using the 30 head, as it saves all the pain of the conversion, still makes tons of power, still sounds cool, etc etc. 2630 will obviously make more power again, but the differences are not stupidly big. It really depends on whether you're racing for sheep stations or not. If it's dead serious, then it's a 26 head. If it's just for fun, it could go either way. But the 26 head and the effort to get it set up, etc etc, is part of the fun.
    • lilley's gtr
      Rb26/30 build

      By lilley's gtr · Posted

      I've been building a 26/30 for a few years now. I've had the head built with all the good stuff. I had a 32 gtr but blew it up and yes its all going into a vl but im looking for some advice from some RB nuts on pros and cons on putting a 26 head on a 30 bottom end is it worth it Works are as follows Head -Extensive porting 1mm oversized supertech valves Supertech double springs Supertech valve guides Supertech titanium retainers Tomei solid lifters Tomei 270 x 10.25 cams Head drain Bottom end series 2 rb30 block Cp ceramic coated pistons Eagle rods Romac balancer Oil restrictions  O ringed blah blah spent a fortune And will get a girdle because the 30s arent used to handling that much rpm Nitto billet oil pump Hypertune plenum 6boost mani Refurbed astra pump thats the cover for it in the boot I did have a precision 6262 but sold it because drag car life. Currently building the ass end full 4 link floater rear end with a 2 speed  But the dilemma i have is my mate rekens I should just stick with the 30 head for reliability. Has any one had any issues with mounting the 26 head ie compression blowing gaskets etc. Just looking for some advice from people who have gone down this route. Here's some photos. Blew the oil pump in the gtr and decided to rip the motor out at the time and do a full build only to find it had been a repairable write off so went down this path.     
×
×
  • Create New...