Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm about to book my car in at Formaz to up the boost a bit on my R34 (which is currently running the stock 0.55 bar). I've dealt with Kevin from Formaz for a minor service before and he seems alright.

Just a question: what's most boost I can safely and reliably run on a stock GT-t turbo/stock intercooler. Only mods so far engine-wise are cat-back exhaust and Apexi pod filter.

The numbers I've gathered from the forum are 10-12psi (0.7-0.8bar) without running the chance of blowing the turbo.

Kev said he has seen many Skylines running 1bar safely on a stock turbo/IC without any problems. Does this sound right? Keeping in mind I don't plan to do any trackwork or drag runs and that summer is coming up.

Also he plans to use a simple bleed valve + boost cut defender to boost it up. I've read here that they don't hold boost properly and cause spiking. I realise an EBC of some sort is the best option, but will this do? Must I have the boost-cut defender as well? Any comments?

Also, any general comments and experiences good (please share) or bad (PM me) with Formaz would be appreciated.

Cheers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/25967-opinion-on-gt-t-boost-formaz/
Share on other sites

1 bar is far too much to run on the stock turbo and cooler. The ceramic exhaust wheel will spin off and the car will probably detonate at that boost level with only the stock i/c. Play it safe keep it around 12psi tops, how are they planning on upping the boost? If its a bleed valve make sure you install a good boost gauge at the same time so you can make sure its not spiking too high. If you plan to use an electronic boost controller some of them, like the blitz dual sbc, act as a boost gauge as well.

the R34 have a plastic wheel which is just as weak as the ceramic one on the R33, it provides faster spoolup but will die just as easily keep at 12psi if u want it to be reliable.

that said i've seen plenty of cars run 14psi all day everyday on the stock turbo and coola with no problems.

ARGH34, just a thought , when u get the boost set , check to see that more boost = more power. Recently had mine tuned (boost spikes to 13.3psi then settles to 12psi) & discovered when we screwed more boost into it that the power dropped off! (Maybe knock sensor picked up some pinging & took out timing to compensate?) .Having said that , I would have happily run 1 Bar (14.7psi) if it went harder :(

I wouldn't bother running anymore than 10psi. The stock cooler in the R34 is better, but still will have 2-3psi pressure drop, but increasing boost any further will add excessive fuel, and you'll find power going down due to overfuelling.

The R34 GT-t's internals are better, the compressor wheel is nylon(plastic) but the exhaust wheel is still ceramic, and won't cope with over-boosting too well.

I'm sure even with 10psi you'll make good power.

Yep points noted. Thanks for the tips.

He said he'll take it for a whirl on the dyno when he boosts it up. I guess if nominal power gains are made with 12psi over 10psi, I'll just set it to 10. I suppose next time I wanna boost it I'll need an FMIC and AFC to make it worthwhile?

I was also thinking of getting a full exhaust done at the same time. What kind of a down pipe / front pipe should I be looking for? Branded or get one fabricated? How much are we looking at?

I noticed rob77 said $300-$350 for the pipes in the 'best mods for $5000' thread. This what I should be expecting?

Oh and any comments on Formaz?

I'd get the full exhaust done first. You may be surprised, but more than likely by doing the exhaust the boost may well increase to about 10psi by itself:D

Yeah, if your planning further mods then an SAFC and FMIC are on the cards:D

I'll PM you my thoughts on Formaz.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok i will get those 310mm. I found one but on a different site. This is the description on those...is it ok? Technical parameters: - Axle: front. - Disc type: ventilated. - Number of holes: 5. - Disc diameter: 310mm. - Total height with center: 54mm. - Thickness (new/min.): 30/28mm. - Designed for brake calipers manufacturer: Sumitomo.
    • You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
×
×
  • Create New...