Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm about to book my car in at Formaz to up the boost a bit on my R34 (which is currently running the stock 0.55 bar). I've dealt with Kevin from Formaz for a minor service before and he seems alright.

Just a question: what's most boost I can safely and reliably run on a stock GT-t turbo/stock intercooler. Only mods so far engine-wise are cat-back exhaust and Apexi pod filter.

The numbers I've gathered from the forum are 10-12psi (0.7-0.8bar) without running the chance of blowing the turbo.

Kev said he has seen many Skylines running 1bar safely on a stock turbo/IC without any problems. Does this sound right? Keeping in mind I don't plan to do any trackwork or drag runs and that summer is coming up.

Also he plans to use a simple bleed valve + boost cut defender to boost it up. I've read here that they don't hold boost properly and cause spiking. I realise an EBC of some sort is the best option, but will this do? Must I have the boost-cut defender as well? Any comments?

Also, any general comments and experiences good (please share) or bad (PM me) with Formaz would be appreciated.

Cheers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/25967-opinion-on-gt-t-boost-formaz/
Share on other sites

1 bar is far too much to run on the stock turbo and cooler. The ceramic exhaust wheel will spin off and the car will probably detonate at that boost level with only the stock i/c. Play it safe keep it around 12psi tops, how are they planning on upping the boost? If its a bleed valve make sure you install a good boost gauge at the same time so you can make sure its not spiking too high. If you plan to use an electronic boost controller some of them, like the blitz dual sbc, act as a boost gauge as well.

the R34 have a plastic wheel which is just as weak as the ceramic one on the R33, it provides faster spoolup but will die just as easily keep at 12psi if u want it to be reliable.

that said i've seen plenty of cars run 14psi all day everyday on the stock turbo and coola with no problems.

ARGH34, just a thought , when u get the boost set , check to see that more boost = more power. Recently had mine tuned (boost spikes to 13.3psi then settles to 12psi) & discovered when we screwed more boost into it that the power dropped off! (Maybe knock sensor picked up some pinging & took out timing to compensate?) .Having said that , I would have happily run 1 Bar (14.7psi) if it went harder :(

I wouldn't bother running anymore than 10psi. The stock cooler in the R34 is better, but still will have 2-3psi pressure drop, but increasing boost any further will add excessive fuel, and you'll find power going down due to overfuelling.

The R34 GT-t's internals are better, the compressor wheel is nylon(plastic) but the exhaust wheel is still ceramic, and won't cope with over-boosting too well.

I'm sure even with 10psi you'll make good power.

Yep points noted. Thanks for the tips.

He said he'll take it for a whirl on the dyno when he boosts it up. I guess if nominal power gains are made with 12psi over 10psi, I'll just set it to 10. I suppose next time I wanna boost it I'll need an FMIC and AFC to make it worthwhile?

I was also thinking of getting a full exhaust done at the same time. What kind of a down pipe / front pipe should I be looking for? Branded or get one fabricated? How much are we looking at?

I noticed rob77 said $300-$350 for the pipes in the 'best mods for $5000' thread. This what I should be expecting?

Oh and any comments on Formaz?

I'd get the full exhaust done first. You may be surprised, but more than likely by doing the exhaust the boost may well increase to about 10psi by itself:D

Yeah, if your planning further mods then an SAFC and FMIC are on the cards:D

I'll PM you my thoughts on Formaz.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
    • I'd ask the shop what they used and use that. Mixing coolants is sometimes OK, sometimes not, and you have know the details of each coolant to know whether it's a good idea or not.
    • Is it alright to top up with just another green coolant?
×
×
  • Create New...