Jump to content
SAU Community

Need Help With Side Mirror Rust Asap

mattye

By mattye,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

mattye Rising Star

mattye

Posted
Posted (edited)

So I looked at another Stagea today RS Four S and its got the rust under the side mirrors. I don't mind buying it and fixing it but i need to know as soon as possible:

A) How much will it cost too fix?

B) How much work is involved?

C) Will it be a straight forward job?

D) Have any of the Brizzy Boys got this done?

If so who did they get to do it?

And were they happy?

Edited by mattye
910trx Proficient

910trx

Posted
Posted

ive had a bit of a look into this.

A) around $400 i was quoted roughly

B) Pretty easy fix relatively speaking (not highly structural and usually small and surface) - best to do it asap

C) most cases, a qualified professional will consider it to be an "easy task"

D) not in brizzy

panel shop will do it if it is not too bad, alot of places dont deal with rust because they are mostly insurance mobs.

providing it is not too deep, it can be rubbed back, treated, bogged and sprayed rather easily.

put some kill rust or fish oil on it in the mean time to stop it getting far worse.

it is hard to find a stagea recently imported free of rust in this location, every one i saw had it, some worse than others.

ensure there is limited rust elsewhere and in non structural locations.

mine has rust but the rest of the car is perfect!

KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

Posted
Posted
So I looked at another Stagea today RS Four S and its got the rust under the side mirrors. I don't mind buying it and fixing it but i need to know as soon as possible:

A) How much will it cost too fix?

B) How much work is involved?

C) Will it be a straight forward job?

D) Have any of the Brizzy Boys got this done?

If so who did they get to do it?

And were they happy?

It is a design fault. Fix asap. Remove door cards, mirror, piece of foam that collects water and makes it rust. Preferably weld in steel to fix hole. Replace foam with stuff treated with a waxy water resistant product. Had to do it to both my Stageas about $400 for two doors. Get a few quotes from panel and paint shops because some of them don't like doing small non-insurance jobs like this and will quote very high. Will be better than new when finished.
mattye Rising Star

mattye

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks heaps guys. Yeh there is only rust here and theres a bit under the seal for the hatch. Their all not realy too bad. Otherwise its good. Its a pearlesant white one, will they be fine colour matching? In essence its so small a spot that you probs wouldn't notice if it wasn't a perfect match.

It is a design fault. Fix asap. Remove door cards, mirror, piece of foam that collects water and makes it rust. Preferably weld in steel to fix hole. Replace foam with stuff treated with a waxy water resistant product. Had to do it to both my Stageas about $400 for two doors. Get a few quotes from panel and paint shops because some of them don't like doing small non-insurance jobs like this and will quote very high. Will be better than new when finished.

Where would I get the new foam from?

Would the pannel shop organise that? (if i ask them to)

rb26stagea Grand Master

rb26stagea

Posted
Posted

RBPOWA: Yes, I have the strut tower rust as well: apparently it's cosmetic, but I will be getting it sorted asap nonetheless...

mattye: I recently had the rust from my mirrors fixed: I had to buy a replacement drivers door skin, and they only fixed the passenger door because the doorskin was proving too difficult to source. My car is also Silky Snow (pearl white), and I would challenge anyone to pick where the paint was blended: you cannot tell the difference between original and resprayed, so you should have nothing to worry about, so long as you use a competent spray shop...

BensDR30 Experienced

BensDR30

Posted
Posted

Some time this year, I'm planning on replacing both doors with new ones - the price is higher than the repair/respray route, but I'm hoping that it will last better in the local climate.

The price was around $650 each for new ones.

KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

Posted
Posted
Some time this year, I'm planning on replacing both doors with new ones - the price is higher than the repair/respray route, but I'm hoping that it will last better in the local climate.

The price was around $650 each for new ones.

They will rust just the same as the old ones because of the way water gets trapped in them. If you get yours repaired properly i.e. steel welded in and the foam replaced with stuff treated with the waxy anti -water stuff (sorry don't know the technical term for it) they will be better than new for 1/4 of the price.
mattye Rising Star

mattye

Posted
  • Author
Posted
mattye: I recently had the rust from my mirrors fixed: I had to buy a replacement drivers door skin, and they only fixed the passenger door because the doorskin was proving too difficult to source. My car is also Silky Snow (pearl white), and I would challenge anyone to pick where the paint was blended: you cannot tell the difference between original and resprayed, so you should have nothing to worry about, so long as you use a competent spray shop...

Why did you have to replace the door skin? I assume you mean the inside trim. Whats one worth?

BensDR30 Experienced

BensDR30

Posted
Posted
They will rust just the same as the old ones because of the way water gets trapped in them. If you get yours repaired properly i.e. steel welded in and the foam replaced with stuff treated with the waxy anti -water stuff (sorry don't know the technical term for it) they will be better than new for 1/4 of the price.

I hear what you're saying, my concern is that the drivers' door has flaky rust on the inside a good 50mm lower than the 'shelf' that the mirror fits into. The repair shop that I went to were quite honest in saying that they wouldn't be able to fix it to the standard that they'd like. The passengers' door isn't as bad, so a repair there may work just fine.

(I'm also going to get the roof resprayed, as it has some rusty stone chips on it)

I'm still considering my options, but either way the door hardware will get modified to significantly reduce the likelihood of it recurring in the future. That in conjunction with the fact that it never bloody rains here anymore should do the trick! :)

chef_stagea Grand Master

chef_stagea

Posted
Posted

theres a little sponge behind the rust, if you pull it apart you can see it and when it rains or gets washed it fills up... im guna take mine out and spray it with a rust disolver for now, may get it looked at later... but thats if its worth it.... on my strut towers ive got like dots in a direct line, about 5mm wide circles, 10mm apart its really weird.

rb26stagea Grand Master

rb26stagea

Posted
Posted
Why did you have to replace the door skin? I assume you mean the inside trim. Whats one worth?

I mean the outer door skin: the painted metal part that the outside door handle sits in. Harveys Smash in Nerang did mine, and guaranteed me that they won't rust again. Not sure what the cost was, because I repaired the other door, removed the roof rails, some badges, had aftermarket mirrors fitted, colour coded the side/bumper strips (s1 ones were silver), and got a 1/2 respray at the same time... I can tell you they're not cheap, but their work is faultless.

KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

Posted
Posted
yeah engine bay isnt consistant, here i used Cutters (cut and polish shit) to remover the brown stain for a show and shine, this is before look
Engine bay looks good. I see you have cable ties to hold the snorkel. Mine came without the two black buttons as well ... i found it OK with only the bonnet to keep it in place.
BensDR30 Experienced

BensDR30

Posted
Posted
Engine bay looks good. I see you have cable ties to hold the snorkel. Mine came without the two black buttons as well ... i found it OK with only the bonnet to keep it in place.

Lol, one of those plugs was broken on our car too - I used to give my wife grief about how fast she drove it as the plug would always end up on top of the air filter after she had the car for a drive.

(Or so I said!)

Adam, can you post pics of the rust in your engine bay - it sounds quite strange...

rb26stagea Grand Master

rb26stagea

Posted
Posted
kk. I haven't heard of that geting done before. Did you just source the skin from Nissan?

Absolutley no idea, sorry: I dropped the car off rough and picked it up 3 weeks later looking almost brand new...

fat-lad Rising Star

fat-lad

Posted
Posted

washed the stag today and found a rust bubble on the pass side under the mirror, only small one, it wasnt there last weekend, ill be pulling the door card off 2moz and spray some rust stop in there to see if i can stop it getting worse. can i remove this spong/rubber peice and leave it out?

anyone got pics of inside the door to show what were all looking at, if not ill get some pics 2moz when i do it after work.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • TurboTapin
      CD009 RB Conversion

      By TurboTapin · Posted

      The SS button head cap screw on the back? If so, good to know. I presumed it was there for basic assembly and nothing more. 
    • Kirby7887
      R32 GTR Lost All Interior Power to IGN Accessories

      By Kirby7887 · Posted

      Hello, everyone. I'm new to the forum. I have a 1989 Nissan Skyline R32 GTR. I have lost all power to the interior, including AC controls, the gauge cluster, turn signals, and windows. Stuff that still works includes the horn, brake lights, radio, and headlights. All fuses, in the interior and exterior boxes, tested good.  It starts and runs fine, just with no gauge power or anything stated above. No warning lights either. Things that I have tested: - Fusable link tested fine - No other fuses blown - Alternator good - IGN switch tested fine - With my power probe, I can backfeed power through the IGN pin to the plug on the back of the gauge cluster, and everything comes back on.    So my theory is something on the control side that sends the ignition power through the system isn't doing its job, or a wire is broken. (I would think that it is the ignition switch that would do that, but who knows?). The ignition relays don't fire (all relays tested good). So what tells them to fire other than the IGN switch?  I would really appreciate it if someone had some insight on this. I have tons of hours into this; I don't want to give up in defeat! I have the HD wiring diagram, but having all those wires laid out like that on one sheet of paper makes things pretty hard to follow.  Thanks for reading, and thanks for the replies.  Where should I look next? Thanks.
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Install a MAP sensor pre and post throttle. Best data you could have for NA, then play with the bends and/or air box and see how much of inflection is created at WOT on the plot.
    • fatz
      Beers and skylines Fatz style

      By fatz · Posted

      And gone to a new home  
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      The car remains in paint jail. I am now pretty convinced that the whole "RB25 Airboxes are kinda limiting to ~300kw" could be a thing. Also saw a good video from Engine Masters: (Sorry for FB link) (https://www.facebook.com/watch/?ref=search&v=761771519471924&external_log_id=c10bcbb6-2c39-4ff3-9240-287e9921fde6&q=Cold Air Considerations) Where they tested Pod Filter sizes and kept adding bends to a LS3 on an Engine Dyno to find if bends caused power loss. It's a good video worth watching - They did lose ~25hp from making an intake which had 3x90's and a 120 degree. They only lost maybe 1hp with a basic 90. I feel that by sealing up my airbox I have: 1) Created the same restriction a stock airbox would have. 2) Created a very convoluted set of intake 'pipes' by forcing all the air through the ducts. So I am pretty confident I'll be going full circle and have a huge hot air intake pod and actually see a benefit. The air does *not* stay hot once it gets flowing, aided by the ducts, and the pod can then pull air from anywhere. All the posts of yore talk about the stock airbox costing 10-15kw at 300kw+ but you know what? I f**king would very much like that 10-15kw and I remember my own pod filter in engine bay experiences. Turns out the GTT Reo and Headlight brackets really don't allow you to mount GTR items, no matter what the internet says. Various brackets have had to be made up to actually make it fit right for the front bar. Also some idiot mounted a 3L Accusump right where the bumper wants to go, so that has had to be 'relocated' To where, I am still not sure, but it's supposedly mounted in the pictures and I can't see it.
×
×
  • Create New...