Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok well the good things are that they go straight in, handy if you have a full exhaust system including a dump pipe that goes to the factory 6 bolt flange. Only issue ive heard is that they are a little bit down on power due to the redesigned exhaust housing that lets them bolt in?

Water lines need to be adapted etc but that is a relatively small issue.

Vehicle - 1997 Nissan Stagea RB25DET Auto

Modifications -

Aftermarket exhaust system from turbo back

600x300x76 Greddy FMIC

Turbosmart Boost Tee

Turbosmart dual port BOV

CAI fed completely shielded K&N pod filter

Pretty certain i would have to step up to an E-boost too or other type of EBC in favour of the Tee, and upgrade injectors as ive seen that these peak out duty wise once you start running larger turbos.

I dont really want to have to pull the engine down or even take the head off at this stage, is the main thing. Should i look at cams? even just the exhaust cam or an adjustable cam gear to help lower the spool RPM?

Thanks guys.

EDIT - the car in question is NOT the 260RS in my signature. cheers.

I thought you were currently Nissan-less?

This the same? http://www.gcg.com.au/turbo/ViewProduct.aspx?ProductID=202 pretty much GT2835 Pro S spec, cant check inabox, capped haha

I dont have the 260RS anymore... it was sold to fund the deposit on a house and the restoration of an old aussie muscle MACHINE haha..

Im having to drop back to an RSfour. Trying to sneak some modifications in under the missus' nose.

R31 Nismoid no they use a different rear housing to allow it to bolt directly to the 6bolt flange. Ive heard this is what causes them to be a lil laggy but ive seen the two (original and HPiaB versions) next to each other and i dont see anything that would greatly impede the flow of exhaust gasses...

WOuld it be a better option to go something different completely, and run a different dump pipe to suit? Im just chasing a low mount replacement that offers decent power and power delivery without creating to many hassles. now is that TOO MUCH TO ASK!?!?!?! GOSH!!!!

sorry....

Ryan im picking up an RSfour next week that is pretty stock standard save for some wheels and suspension. Fresh canvas.

Well buy it if you must - but when you come back posting about boost control problems dont say people didnt warn you. Two people have in two posts... its not good odds.

If you dont want hassle... garrett rear housing... its not hard.

then buy dump to suit, again, not hard. it all has to come off to be fitted

be happy

Well buy it if you must - but when you come back posting about boost control problems dont say people didnt warn you. Two people have in two posts... its not good odds.

If you dont want hassle... garrett rear housing... its not hard.

then buy dump to suit, again, not hard. it all has to come off to be fitted

be happy

Do they come in IW and will they fit under a stock turbo heat sheild?

Bobert, link me the new one ;)

[link]http://www.horsepowerinabox.com/HPIAB2/category12_1.htm[/link]

Its the 7th turbo down the page.

Boost control problems would be a wastegate issue nismoid? Thats why you recommend an externally gated unit...?

Not sure if they fit under the shield ryan - they are a lil bigger.

[link]http://www.horsepowerinabox.com/HPIAB2/category12_1.htm[/link]

Its the 7th turbo down the page.

Boost control problems would be a wastegate issue nismoid? Thats why you recommend an externally gated unit...?

Not sure if they fit under the shield ryan - they are a lil bigger.

The questions were for ash(as he had a GT30 i think), and the link request was for the stag haha

[link]http://www.horsepowerinabox.com/HPIAB2/category12_1.htm[/link]

Its the 7th turbo down the page.

Boost control problems would be a wastegate issue nismoid? Thats why you recommend an externally gated unit...?

Not sure if they fit under the shield ryan - they are a lil bigger.

No, boost control issues with non genuine GARRETT housings...

Nothing to do with external gate

No, boost control issues with non genuine GARRETT housings...

Nothing to do with external gate

So do garret make an internal wastegate housing?

and do the GT3071/76 fit under the standard turbo heat sheild?

Have to search under GT3071R IW or GT3076R IW , I'm told the propper GT30 integral wastegate turbine housings were developed here in Australia and look very similar to the turbine housing on Fords XR6 turbo cars .

In that case they're used on a GT3582R , personally I think they are intended to be GT30 turbine housings but some are machined out to fit GT35BB turbines/turbos .

People here like Mafia/Cubes are using them and I posted pics of the bare housings when they became available in Sydney a couple of years ago - don't have the link sorry .

I would always use a genuine turbine housing given a choice because the manufacturer designs the housing to work with their turbine - they are a matching set say like a 16" wheel with a 16" tyre .

I'm not going to rag anyone but it's easy to see where producing a generic turbine housing and machining it to suit various diameter turbines will cause problems , because like the 16" rim example you may guts a 15" tyre onto it but its not the way the engineers intended it to work .

The usual problems with generic turbine housings is elevated exhaust manifold pressure (TIP or turbine inlet pressure) which shows up as what people call "boost creep" - the wastegates inability to bypass sufficient volume of exhaust gas to "throttle" or control turbine speed (compressor as well) and therefore boost pressure .

The best gas flow situation is to use the turbine/turbo manufacturers matching family of turbine housing but even then the housings A/R ratio has to be right as in not too small .

Search here under GT3071R and GT3076R because there are some long strings and lots of peoples R and D you can benefit from .

Beyond the scope of this thread but Garrett is tooling up to make a bolt on version of the GT3071R and GT3076R for the the Evolutuion 10 Lancer . The big news is that their turbine housings will be twin integral (internal) wastegate and twin scroll available in 0.73 and 0.9x A/R ratios .

Sadly the mount flange style is not split "T3" but if adapters or a custom manifold were on the cards it'd be real hard to beat on a road car .

Hope this helps , cheers A .

i have a 3076 .82 IW on my 25. got told by the company i bought it from i'd have massive boost control issues with IW but i gave it a go anyway. i think the most important thing is having a big bellmouth dump on it. i made one up with a mate with lots of flow around the gate area and with a 12psi actuator it holds 12psi perfectly

the "bolt on" gt30s have a machined out rb25/vg30 rear housing to make it bolt on. even machined out to their max they're still not really big enough to work properly. definately get a genuine garrett rear housing.

and the stock heat shield fits with some modification, i just bent myne a little bit and screwed it onto the manifold shield, works pretty well

Has anyone used this one from tweakit.net? http://www.tweakit.net/shop/product_info.p...roducts_id=6598

Its got a garrett 5-bolt dump rather than the Nissan 6-bolt dump. Would that help with the boost control issues?

Trick is to run the .82 IW.

If you wish to run the .6 or .7 RB style 5 bolt turbine housing or .6 Garrett xr6t style you will have issues with boost creep.

To help with boost control the best method is to run a nice big bell mouth. The splits tend to improve gas flow of the turbine wheel while due to the 'typical' split design it reducing the available area 'around' the wastegate flap.

As the flap opens it partially blocks the dumps wastegate pipe, not good for a turbo that is running a flapper sized borderline for its application.

HPIAB I can recommend; tweekit have never got back to be on several occasions when querying their products so sadly I cannot recommend them.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I did end up getting it sorted, as GTSBoy said, there was a corroded connection and wire that needed to be replaced. I ended up taking out the light assembly, giving everything a good clean and re-soldered the old joints, and it came out good.
    • Wow, thanks for your help guys 🙏. I really appreciate it. Thanks @Rezz, if i fail finding any new or used, full or partial set of original Stage carpets i will come back to you for sure 😉 Explenation is right there, i just missed it 🤦‍♂️. Thanks for pointing out. @soviet_merlin in the meantime, I received a reply from nengun, and i quote: "Thanks for your message and interest in Nengun. KG4900 is for the full set of floor mats, while KG4911 is only the Driver's Floor Mat. FR, RH means Front Right Hand Side. All the Full Set options are now discontinued. However, the Driver's Floor Mat options are still available according to the latest information available to us. We do not know what the differences would be, but if you only want the one mat, we can certainly see what we can find out for you". Interesting. It seems they still have some "new old stock" that Duncan mentioned 🤔. I wonder if they can provide any photos......And i also just realized that amayama have G4900 sets. I'm tempted too. 
    • Any update on this one? did you manage to get it fixed?    i'm having the same issue with my r34 and i believe its to do with the smart entry (keyless) control module but cant be sure without forking out to get a replacement  
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if something was binding the shaft from rotating properly. I got absolutely no voltage reading out of the sensor no matter how fast I turned the shaft. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if shttps://imgur.com/6TQCG3xomething was binding the shaft from rotating properly. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
×
×
  • Create New...