Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok well the good things are that they go straight in, handy if you have a full exhaust system including a dump pipe that goes to the factory 6 bolt flange. Only issue ive heard is that they are a little bit down on power due to the redesigned exhaust housing that lets them bolt in?

Water lines need to be adapted etc but that is a relatively small issue.

Vehicle - 1997 Nissan Stagea RB25DET Auto

Modifications -

Aftermarket exhaust system from turbo back

600x300x76 Greddy FMIC

Turbosmart Boost Tee

Turbosmart dual port BOV

CAI fed completely shielded K&N pod filter

Pretty certain i would have to step up to an E-boost too or other type of EBC in favour of the Tee, and upgrade injectors as ive seen that these peak out duty wise once you start running larger turbos.

I dont really want to have to pull the engine down or even take the head off at this stage, is the main thing. Should i look at cams? even just the exhaust cam or an adjustable cam gear to help lower the spool RPM?

Thanks guys.

EDIT - the car in question is NOT the 260RS in my signature. cheers.

I thought you were currently Nissan-less?

This the same? http://www.gcg.com.au/turbo/ViewProduct.aspx?ProductID=202 pretty much GT2835 Pro S spec, cant check inabox, capped haha

I dont have the 260RS anymore... it was sold to fund the deposit on a house and the restoration of an old aussie muscle MACHINE haha..

Im having to drop back to an RSfour. Trying to sneak some modifications in under the missus' nose.

R31 Nismoid no they use a different rear housing to allow it to bolt directly to the 6bolt flange. Ive heard this is what causes them to be a lil laggy but ive seen the two (original and HPiaB versions) next to each other and i dont see anything that would greatly impede the flow of exhaust gasses...

WOuld it be a better option to go something different completely, and run a different dump pipe to suit? Im just chasing a low mount replacement that offers decent power and power delivery without creating to many hassles. now is that TOO MUCH TO ASK!?!?!?! GOSH!!!!

sorry....

Ryan im picking up an RSfour next week that is pretty stock standard save for some wheels and suspension. Fresh canvas.

Well buy it if you must - but when you come back posting about boost control problems dont say people didnt warn you. Two people have in two posts... its not good odds.

If you dont want hassle... garrett rear housing... its not hard.

then buy dump to suit, again, not hard. it all has to come off to be fitted

be happy

Well buy it if you must - but when you come back posting about boost control problems dont say people didnt warn you. Two people have in two posts... its not good odds.

If you dont want hassle... garrett rear housing... its not hard.

then buy dump to suit, again, not hard. it all has to come off to be fitted

be happy

Do they come in IW and will they fit under a stock turbo heat sheild?

Bobert, link me the new one ;)

[link]http://www.horsepowerinabox.com/HPIAB2/category12_1.htm[/link]

Its the 7th turbo down the page.

Boost control problems would be a wastegate issue nismoid? Thats why you recommend an externally gated unit...?

Not sure if they fit under the shield ryan - they are a lil bigger.

[link]http://www.horsepowerinabox.com/HPIAB2/category12_1.htm[/link]

Its the 7th turbo down the page.

Boost control problems would be a wastegate issue nismoid? Thats why you recommend an externally gated unit...?

Not sure if they fit under the shield ryan - they are a lil bigger.

The questions were for ash(as he had a GT30 i think), and the link request was for the stag haha

[link]http://www.horsepowerinabox.com/HPIAB2/category12_1.htm[/link]

Its the 7th turbo down the page.

Boost control problems would be a wastegate issue nismoid? Thats why you recommend an externally gated unit...?

Not sure if they fit under the shield ryan - they are a lil bigger.

No, boost control issues with non genuine GARRETT housings...

Nothing to do with external gate

No, boost control issues with non genuine GARRETT housings...

Nothing to do with external gate

So do garret make an internal wastegate housing?

and do the GT3071/76 fit under the standard turbo heat sheild?

Have to search under GT3071R IW or GT3076R IW , I'm told the propper GT30 integral wastegate turbine housings were developed here in Australia and look very similar to the turbine housing on Fords XR6 turbo cars .

In that case they're used on a GT3582R , personally I think they are intended to be GT30 turbine housings but some are machined out to fit GT35BB turbines/turbos .

People here like Mafia/Cubes are using them and I posted pics of the bare housings when they became available in Sydney a couple of years ago - don't have the link sorry .

I would always use a genuine turbine housing given a choice because the manufacturer designs the housing to work with their turbine - they are a matching set say like a 16" wheel with a 16" tyre .

I'm not going to rag anyone but it's easy to see where producing a generic turbine housing and machining it to suit various diameter turbines will cause problems , because like the 16" rim example you may guts a 15" tyre onto it but its not the way the engineers intended it to work .

The usual problems with generic turbine housings is elevated exhaust manifold pressure (TIP or turbine inlet pressure) which shows up as what people call "boost creep" - the wastegates inability to bypass sufficient volume of exhaust gas to "throttle" or control turbine speed (compressor as well) and therefore boost pressure .

The best gas flow situation is to use the turbine/turbo manufacturers matching family of turbine housing but even then the housings A/R ratio has to be right as in not too small .

Search here under GT3071R and GT3076R because there are some long strings and lots of peoples R and D you can benefit from .

Beyond the scope of this thread but Garrett is tooling up to make a bolt on version of the GT3071R and GT3076R for the the Evolutuion 10 Lancer . The big news is that their turbine housings will be twin integral (internal) wastegate and twin scroll available in 0.73 and 0.9x A/R ratios .

Sadly the mount flange style is not split "T3" but if adapters or a custom manifold were on the cards it'd be real hard to beat on a road car .

Hope this helps , cheers A .

i have a 3076 .82 IW on my 25. got told by the company i bought it from i'd have massive boost control issues with IW but i gave it a go anyway. i think the most important thing is having a big bellmouth dump on it. i made one up with a mate with lots of flow around the gate area and with a 12psi actuator it holds 12psi perfectly

the "bolt on" gt30s have a machined out rb25/vg30 rear housing to make it bolt on. even machined out to their max they're still not really big enough to work properly. definately get a genuine garrett rear housing.

and the stock heat shield fits with some modification, i just bent myne a little bit and screwed it onto the manifold shield, works pretty well

Has anyone used this one from tweakit.net? http://www.tweakit.net/shop/product_info.p...roducts_id=6598

Its got a garrett 5-bolt dump rather than the Nissan 6-bolt dump. Would that help with the boost control issues?

Trick is to run the .82 IW.

If you wish to run the .6 or .7 RB style 5 bolt turbine housing or .6 Garrett xr6t style you will have issues with boost creep.

To help with boost control the best method is to run a nice big bell mouth. The splits tend to improve gas flow of the turbine wheel while due to the 'typical' split design it reducing the available area 'around' the wastegate flap.

As the flap opens it partially blocks the dumps wastegate pipe, not good for a turbo that is running a flapper sized borderline for its application.

HPIAB I can recommend; tweekit have never got back to be on several occasions when querying their products so sadly I cannot recommend them.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
×
×
  • Create New...