Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys, I'm the one that did the tune.

We've left it pretty rough for now as the dyno run was only a power run, not a tuning run. I agree, there is a bit more tuning that needs to be done (In my opinion the curve is bad, and needs to be more straight, but nothing I can't handle). Its only been on the road twice for a couple of hours each so I didn't expect the AFR line to be too straight, but straight enough.

We gave up early because I did the usual tuning "tests" to see if there is a restriction.

1. Boost from 18psi to 20psi - 272rwkw to 278rwkw - Shitty gain

2. Timing - Increased timing on full load by 2 degrees - Power up to 281rwkw. Shitty gain.

3. More timing - No more gains AT ALL. Eventually, detonation

This leads us to believe that there is something stopping that extra power being made. You could feel it restricting somehow. Everything else is great though, torque curve is nice and straight, and consistant, power curve is about what you would expect with a 0.82 rear housing.

I'm making 314rwkw with the 0.63 rear, and most the the same, other gear. Here are the only differences (as per my 314rwkw run)

- Intercooler piping is bigger from the turbo to the hot side of the intercooler

- 0.63 Rear housing

- 225ml\min water meth nozzle (Mitch is running a 375ml)

- Larger q45 AFM

- Standard Intake Manifold

My car had the horrid 2.5inch cat on it when I did that big run.

I will say this though - My car has always felt a little laggy off boost. Nothing bad, just different from most other R33's that I have ridden in. This makes me think I may have cams installed. I do not know though. I'm getting that dreaded Exhaust side tappet cover leak fixed soon, so I might check then and see if the cams are any different to stock.

I'm sure we'll find what is wrong. Just a matter of trial and error.

Here is my cars dyno print out (same dyno) with a new fuel pump and a quick 1 hour road tune done all by myself and no driver.. (annyoing! haha)

314rwkw-2.jpg

314rwkw-1.jpg

Edited by The Mafia
  • Replies 44
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

trial error and head aches lol

cant complain really..i guess there is alot of people on here wishing they could make anything close to 280kw but i just got to crack that 300 mark....

i run a different setup but i use a greddy copy and make 500kw with no problem it is a bit lagger then the standard one but i did picked up about 20kw. fix the exhaust its a problem i had a 3 inch exhaust with a 3 inch gudded cat and the cat housing was the problem i changed to a full 3 1/2 inch exhaust and what different it made to the boost response it was like a new car. the cooler pipes, i have been there and done it didnt pick up any more power but i did pick up 200lb of tourqe. thats just my results from what i have done. good luck :D

Cmon Mafia, i though you'd have a spare boost gauge lying around..... just make up an adaptor for the O2 port and measure the Backpressure. Good tool to have in the tuning arsenal.

Gary

No probs, just use a silicon hose or something abit higher temp ..... its only in there for a couple of pulls , or runs on the street. Just give it abit of length to keep the heat from the gauge.

Been doing this for years, easy to catch dying cats with. Just did my own skyline recently, suspected dying metal cat, sure enough 7psi ! .. gutted it to get 3.2psi !

Just hook it up to a second map channel on the dyno and you can graph it along with the power curve.

Gary

fastrotor

thats a great idea.....will definetly look intot that.

mafia i got an old boost gauge i think and i can pull the middle out of an old o2 sensor and weld a fitting onto it to run a bit of heat proof hose to the gauge

I will say this though - My car has always felt a little laggy off boost. Nothing bad, just different from most other R33's that I have ridden in. This makes me think I may have cams installed. I do not know though

Would be nice if cams were installed but I tend to doubt it as its near impossible to notice the loss of power down low until the cars noticeably caming over.

Chances are either cam timing is slightly off OR most likely its running a thicker headgasket or the motors running a lower static comp due to being previously rebuilt.

IMO :(

this is going to be interesting....

ok this is a stab in the dark...what if my cam timing was out by i tooth... could this be a possibility or would that show itself before the tune

  • 2 weeks later...

hey thought i might post up the results of the back pressure test with the boost gauge on the dump pipe...

i have 5-6 psi back pressure..it really suprised me how much! will post the result after i fix the restricting cat......

waiting with baited breath....... :/ Hope YOU get some results....

my personal car was 7psi ! , gutted the magic cat, and dropped to 3.2psi ..... gain ? NOTHING. Hence why im still scratching my head....... Just plumbed in a 100psi stainless sensor via silicon to the turbo manifold to measure TIP..... Would know by now but unfortunately in my rush to change oil filter, i broke off the oil filter mount thread !!!!!!! Arrrggg....

Gary

hi fastrotor so you had no gains....dam...did you dyno it to check results or could you notice no gains driving around...i guess untill you have 0 back pressure still going to be a problem

I have the same sort of thing happening with mine

boost increases do nothing

14psi seems to be the sweet spot anything above that doesnt give you much more power

although i did find a big boost leak in mine which ive since fixed but havent run it on the dyno since.

the car feels different to drive so im hoping it makes a big difference

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
×
×
  • Create New...