Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

I have a quick question, My r32 is stock and i feel like theres lag in the turbo.

I've heard from people they said that there should be no turbo lag since its a twin turbo because it uses 1 at lower revs and 1 at higher revs.

When i do test my car, i think the turbo kicks in around 3000rpm (thats when i feel the power :|).

By the way im not a reckless driver and normally dont speed, so im not too sure if this is normal for my car or could it be some problem with the turbo? could it be the set up? or some electric problem?

Please help me settle this problem.

Cheers guys!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/260396-r32-gtr-stock-performance/
Share on other sites

you are thinking about a sequential turbo set up like in a liberty, GTR's turbos run simultaneously, one feeds off exhaust from front three cylinders, the other off the three back cylinders, their charge is joined prior to entry through the intercooler, then into plenum, and fed into cylinders to mix and explode with ya go go gas

"The engine also uses a parallel twin turbo system. The turbo system is arranged so that the front turbo is powered by the front 3 cylinders, and the rear turbo is powered by the rear 3 cylinders. The turbo chargers are of equal size, and are set by the wastegates to limit boost pressure to 14.7 psi, although the Skyline GT-R has a built in boost restrictor to keep boost under 10 psi."

yeah 3 - 3,500rpm usually is when you start to see the light at the end of the tunnel!!!

:D

I've heard from people they said that there should be no turbo lag since its a twin turbo because it uses 1 at lower revs and 1 at higher revs.

Stop taking their advice - they're wrong :(

Supra's also have sequential turbos (and they are shit) FYI

A great way to combat that pesky sluggish period below 3000rpm is to rev the car to 4-5000rpm and dump the clutch :(

On a more serious note.. Definition of "Turbo Lag": Within a turbocharger's operating range (ie. in your case about 3000-7000rpm), lag is the delay between the instant a car's accelerator is depressed and the time the turbocharged engine develops a large fraction of the power available at that point in the engine's power curve.

Below 3000rpm the engine doesnt flow enough exhaust gas to spin the turbine fast enough to make boost. So what you're experiencing isnt actually "turbo lag" by definition :cheers:

You'll be suprised how much nicer they act at 15psi :D

But yeah they're pretty crappy turbos, and the ceramic wheels are dodgy as all hell. I doubt you'll find anyone on here who wouldnt recommend changing them as soon as the budget allows :P The most responsive direct replacements are HKS GTSS, or Garrett 2860-7's for the budget minded.

Enjoy!

You'll be suprised how much nicer they act at 15psi :D

But yeah they're pretty crappy turbos, and the ceramic wheels are dodgy as all hell. I doubt you'll find anyone on here who wouldnt recommend changing them as soon as the budget allows :P The most responsive direct replacements are HKS GTSS, or Garrett 2860-7's for the budget minded.

Enjoy!

This quote is true, chuck on new turbos asap. When those turbo's go bang, which may be in the not too distant future, the ceramic dust stuffs your engine. I have N1's in mine (all steel), i think they are the same size as the stock ones and they are heppy to sit on 1.2 bar. Good Luck!

GTR system is definately not a sequential turbo setup. Easy way to check how your boost is going is go buy a $40 boost gauge and see whats happening, you could have a vac leak or one of your actuators playing up or even worse a turbo problem.

If you need to replace them get some HKS 2510/30/40's great turbos.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks for that, I'll check it all out. I can always do the brakes last anyway if its a problem.  The 16's are super cool, if they do fit I'll cruise around with them for a bit.  
    • Well, that's kinda the point. The calipers might interfere with the inside of the barrels 16" rims are only about 14" inside the barrels, which is ~350mm, and 334mm rotors only leave about 8mm outboard for the caliper before you get to 350, And.... that;s not gunna be enough. If the rims have a larger ID than that, you might sneak it in. I'd be putting a measuring stick inside the wheel and eyeballing the extra required for the caliper outboard of the rotor before committing to bolting it all on.
    • OK, so again it has been a bit of a break but it was around researching what had been done since I didn't have access to Neil's records and not everything is obvious without pulling stuff apart. Happily the guy who assembled the engine had kept reasonable records, so we now know the final spec is: Bottom end: Standard block and crank Ross 86.5mm forgies, 9:1 compression Spool forged rods Standard main bolts Oil pump Spool billet gears in standard housing Aeroflow extended and baffled sump Head Freshly rebuilt standard head with new 80lb valve springs Mild porting/port match Head oil feed restrictor VCT disabled Tighe 805C reground cams (255 duration, 8.93 lift)  Adjustable cam gears on inlet/exhaust Standard head bolts, gasket not confirmed but assumed MLS External 555cc Nismo injectors Z32 AFM Bosch 023 Intank fuel pump Garret 2871 (factory housings and manifold) Hypertune FFP plenum with standard throttle   Time to book in a trip to Unigroup
    • I forgot about my shiny new plates!
    • Well, apparently they do fit, however this wont be a problem if not because the car will be stationary while i do the suspension work. I was just going to use the 16's to roll the old girl around if I needed to. I just need to get the E90 back on the road first. Yes! I'm a believer! 🙌 So, I contacted them because the site kinda sucks and I was really confused about what I'd need. They put together a package for me and because I was spraying all the seat surfaces and not doing spot fixes I decided not to send them a headrest to colour match, I just used their colour on file (and it was spot on).  I got some heavy duty cleaner, 1L of colour, a small bottle of dye hardener and a small bottle of the dye top coat. I also got a spray gun as I needed a larger nozzle than the gun I had and it was only $40 extra. From memory the total was ~$450 ish. Its not cheap but the result is awesome. They did add repair bits and pieces to the quote originally and the cost came down significantly when I said I didn't need any repair products. I did it over a weekend. The only issues I had were my own; I forgot to mix the hardener into the dye two coats but I had enough dye for 2 more coats with the hardener. I also just used up all the dye because why not and i rushed the last coat which gave me some runs. Thankfully the runs are under the headrests. The gun pattern wasn't great, very round and would have been better if it was a line. It made it a little tricky to get consistent coverage and I think having done the extra coats probably helped conceal any coverage issues. I contacted them again a few months later so I could get our X5 done (who the f**k thought white leather was a good idea for a family car?!) and they said they had some training to do in Sydney and I could get a reduced rate on the leather fix in the X5 if I let them demo their product on our car. So I agreed. When I took Bec in the E39 to pick it up, I showed them the job I'd done in my car and they were all (students included) really impressed. Note that they said the runs I created could be fixed easily at the time with a brush or an air compressor gun. So, now with the two cars done I can absolutely recommend Colourlock.  I'll take pics of both interiors and create a new thread.
×
×
  • Create New...