Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys, I've noticed lately that sometimes when I start the car up the power button light flashes 16 times. The button itself is always set in the middle, I don't bother with it.

The car shifts fine and haven't had a problem with it except a couple times it wouldn't shift up until around 4-5,000 rpm when it was really cold.

Anyone know what the flashing means? I'm taking it for a service and shift kit install soon but would like to know what the deal is before i do it.

Cheers!

See if this helps..

Enter the auto transmission diagnostics mode:

  1. Have the car at normal temperature in Park with the overdrive on
  2. Start the engine the power light will go out after 2 seconds
  3. Turn the ignition off
  4. Move the selector to Drive (you may have to use the push button release)
  5. Overdrive off
  6. Wait 2 seconds, and turn the ignition on
  7. Wait 2 seconds and move the selector to 2
  8. Overdrive on
  9. Move the selector to 1
  10. Overdrive Off
  11. Press the accelerator fully and release

Auto transmission diagnostics codes:

The error codes are flashed out using the Power light on the dashboard (R32) or the Power / Snow button (R33). The sequence starts with one long flash. If everything is OK, this will be followed by ten short flashes. Errors are indicated by a long flash in the sequence of short flashes.

1st flash longer Revolution sensor shorted or disconnected

2nd flash longer Speed sensor shorted or disconnected

3rd flash longer Throttle sensor shorted or disconnected

4th flash longer Shift solenoid A shorted or disconnected

5th flash longer Shift solenoid B shorted or disconnected

6th flash longer Overrun clutch solenoid shorted or disconnected

7th flash longer Lockup solenoid shorted or disconnected

8th flash longer Fluid temperature sensor is disconnected or the control unit power source is damaged

9th flash longer Engine revolution sensor shorted or disconnected

10th flash longer Line pressure solenoid shorted or disconnected

All flashes the same with no long start flash - Battery voltage low, has been recently disconnected or control unit has just been reconnected

Ahhhhh i think i might know why, had to replace my battery not long ago to pass roadworthy... I'll check out the diagnostic feature though and see whats up.

Thanks so much for this!!! :cool:

  • 12 years later...
On 11/03/2009 at 3:16 AM, 2LV8ETR said:

See if this helps..

Enter the auto transmission diagnostics mode:

 

  1. Have the car at normal temperature in Park with the overdrive on
  2. Start the engine the power light will go out after 2 seconds
  3. Turn the ignition off
  4. Move the selector to Drive (you may have to use the push button release)
  5. Overdrive off
  6. Wait 2 seconds, and turn the ignition on
  7. Wait 2 seconds and move the selector to 2
  8. Overdrive on
  9. Move the selector to 1
  10. Overdrive Off
  11. Press the accelerator fully and release

 

Auto transmission diagnostics codes:

The error codes are flashed out using the Power light on the dashboard (R32) or the Power / Snow button (R33). The sequence starts with one long flash. If everything is OK, this will be followed by ten short flashes. Errors are indicated by a long flash in the sequence of short flashes.

1st flash longer Revolution sensor shorted or disconnected

2nd flash longer Speed sensor shorted or disconnected

3rd flash longer Throttle sensor shorted or disconnected

4th flash longer Shift solenoid A shorted or disconnected

5th flash longer Shift solenoid B shorted or disconnected

6th flash longer Overrun clutch solenoid shorted or disconnected

7th flash longer Lockup solenoid shorted or disconnected

8th flash longer Fluid temperature sensor is disconnected or the control unit power source is damaged

9th flash longer Engine revolution sensor shorted or disconnected

10th flash longer Line pressure solenoid shorted or disconnected

All flashes the same with no long start flash - Battery voltage low, has been recently disconnected or control unit has just been reconnected

Hi just had a similar problem to yours when I did my sub but the only prob was I could not go up past 3 gear I checked the power and snow switch it was not pluged in I just plugged it in and it was fine again also when they dyno these cars they disconnect the power and snow switch to stay in 3 gear. I hope this fixes it for you to 

  • 11 months later...

didn't answer question what does it mean power button flashes one long sixteen short and the car only selects third gear like it is in failsafe mode

 

  • 2 years later...
  • 1 year later...
On 26/06/2024 at 4:25 AM, damesta said:

Did you ever figure this out? My r32 is doing the same thing, 16 flashes when I turn it on and feels like it’s stuck in 3rd gear limp mode, won’t downshift at all. No errors in diag mode, did a fresh fluid flush and it made no difference.

Did anyone figure this out? Mine been doing it for years. Changed solenoid in value body along with value body and yps. Driving me crazy. 1 long 16 short flash. Thanks for any help. 

TPS not yps

1 minute ago, barrman said:

Did anyone figure this out? Mine been doing it for years. Changed solenoid in value body along with value body and yps. Driving me crazy. 1 long 16 short flash. Thanks for any help. 

TPS not yps 

8 hours ago, barrman said:

Did anyone figure this out? Mine been doing it for years. Changed solenoid in value body along with value body and yps. Driving me crazy. 1 long 16 short flash. Thanks for any help. 

Pull codes via the self-diagnosis procedure. As far as I can tell this is just a sign of transmission issues but not a code unto itself.

Quote

Changed solenoid in value body

Which solenoid? Why was it changed?

Quote

along with value body

Again, why was this done?

Quote

and TPS

...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment?

I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem?

Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks for all the replies fellas. Gonna finish putting it back together and see how it handles the set up. If it starts pinging it’ll be parked.
    • Well, I can recommend the partial AV system translation CD I ordered from Car Audio Workshop in NZ. Whilst it didn't address the date issue, it has conveniently translated on-screen menu items into English, and now allows the GPS-received time to be offset in hours rather than minutes, so I can display Eastern Australian time accurately ( and bump it by another hour when daylight savings starts ).
    • Yuh, if it's 45°C outside, my car is driving in it.
    • I'd be curious to hear more. Otherwise, have you driven a modern x-trail? I wonder how it compares. Here in Australia they are/were popular for rentals and fleet vehicles. I have been in some and my impression was they are bad. But, this may have been very different in the 2000s at a good trim level. Twenty years is plenty of time to make the model worse. I do very much agree with the 2 silver cars in the garage approach. But, not driving because it's too hot would not leave a lot of time in the year for many Australians. I don't think you need to worry too much unless the car has actual issues with overheating. 
    • Back again. I returned to Japan in Jul/Aug to spend time with the car on my birthday and remind myself what all the sacrifice and compromise is for. It happened to line up with the monthly morning meet in Okutama, which I have been wanting to go to for a long time. It's a unique event at a unique spot with really rare, interesting, and quirky cars. It's where all the oldheads and OGs gather. The nighttime scene at DKF certainly has its place and should be experienced if you're into cars, but there's too much bad attention and negativity around it now. IMO the better time is Sunday morning at DKF or Okutama; it's more chill and relaxed. I'm glad I was finally able to go, but not sure it's worth the drive from all the way from Nagoya immediately the day before, unless I was already staying in Tokyo for the days right before the meet, because you have to wake up quite early to make it in time. Funnily enough though I didn't drive the car all that much this trip because it was just too damn hot. While there were zero issues and running temps were nominal and the A/C was strong, RBs already run crazy hot as it is. Sure, it took it all like a champ but something about driving these cars in the ridiculous heat/humidity bothers me and makes me feel like I'm asking too much of it. I'm just me being weird and treating the car like a living thing with feelings; I'm mechanically sympathetic to a fault. Instead I was mainly driving something else around - a KX4(silver) 2001 X-Trail GT, that I acquired in May. There's a few different flavors to choose from with Xs, but visually it's the Nissan version of the Honda CR-V. Mechanically it's a whole different story as this, being the top-trim GT, has an SR20VET mated to a four-speed auto and full-time AWD! It was a very affordable buy in exceptional condition inside and out, with very low mileage...only 48k kms. Most likely it was owned by an older person who kept it garaged and well-maintained, so I'm really happy with how it all worked out. It literally needs zero attention at the moment, albeit except for some minor visual touch-ups. I wanted something quirky, interesting, and practical and for sure it handily delivers on all three of those aspects. I was immediately able to utilize the cargo and passenger capacity to its full extent. It's a lot of fun to drive and is quite punchy through 1st and 2nd. It's very unassuming -in the twisty bits it's a lot more composed than one would think at a glance- and it'll be even better once I get better tires on it(yes, it's an SUV but still a little boat-y for my liking). So...now I have two golden-era Nissans in silver. One sports car and one that does everything else; the perfect two-car solution I think👍 The rest of the trip...I was able to turn my stressed brain off and enjoy it, although I didn't quite get to do as much as I thought. I did some interesting things, met some interesting people, and happened into some interesting situations however, that's all for another post though only if people really want to know. Project-wise, I went back to Mine's again to discuss more plans and am hoping to wrap that up real soon; keep watching this space if that interests you. Additionally, while working in the tormenting sweatbox that is the warehouse, I was able to organize most of the myriad of parts that my friend is storing for me along with the cars, and the 34 has a nice little spot carved out for it: And since it can get so stupid hot in there, that made it all the more easy -after I was standing there looking at the car and said 'f**k it'- to finally remove all the damn gauges that have mostly been an eyesore all this time. Huzzah. The heat basically makes the adhesive backing on the gauge mounts more pliable to work with, so it was far less stressful getting this done. I didn't fully clean it up or chase the wiring though; that will happen once I have the car in closer possession. Another major reason to remove all that stuff is to give people less reasons to get in my car and steal s**t while it's being exported/imported when/if the time comes, which leads us to my next point... ...and that is even though it's time in Japan is technically almost up since it's a November car and the X would be coming in March, I'm still not entirely sure where my life and career is headed; I don't really know what the future looks like and where I'm going to end up. I feel there's a great deal of uncertainty with me and as a result of that, it feels like I'm at a crossroads moreso now than any point in my life thus far and there are some choices I need to make. Yes, I've had some years to consider things and prepare myself, however too much has happened in that time to maintain confidence and everything feels so up in the air; tenuous one might say. Simply put, there's just too much nonsense going on right now from multiple vectors. Admittedly, I'm struggling to stay in the game and keep my eyes on the prize. So much so in fact, that very recently I came the closest I ever have before to calling it quits outright; selling everything and moving on and not looking back. The astute among you will pick up on key subtext within this paragraph. In the meantime I've still managed to slowly acquire some final bits for the car, but it feels nice knowing there's not much left to get and I'm almost across that finish line; I have almost everything I'll ever want for my interpretation and expression on what it is I think an R34 should be. 'til later.
×
×
  • Create New...