Jump to content
SAU Community

Questions About A New Computer For The V

t0rpy
 Share

Recommended Posts

t0rpy Explorer

t0rpy

Posted
Posted

hey jus a few quick questions.. im looking at updating my computer for the V35 coupe..

1st of all will a computer set up for a 350z work with a 03 V35 coupe Auto?

2nd where can a new computer be sourced?

3rd not looking for anything overly expensve a nice plug n play would be good which can be tuned and re-tuned..

4th any opinions/preferences and why?

the car has a full twin exhaust with extractors and cats, full air induction and plenum spacer..

any info would be of great help..

thanks in advance

kari

rs73 Grand Master

rs73

Posted
Posted

I think it will work but you may need to code the immobiliser to make it start-able.

The immobiliser code is the 4 digit on a metal plate in one of your keys. if you don't have it you're out of luck. pray that your existing key(s) never stop working/damaged/lost

you can buy from Nissan, cost very expensive of course

having an auto means ECU choice is basically very limited. probably the easiest is having an SAFC (piggy back computer) so you can somewhat tune your air/fuel ratio to a certain degree. it won't be as good as a replacement ECU but it is possible...

you should have bought a manual in the first place. Sell it and buy a manual, then you can easily get an Impul ECU, or PowerFC, etc.

I bought an auto cos I don't plan to modify, and the missus can drive it too.

t0rpy Explorer

t0rpy

Posted
  • Author
Posted

yeah i've kind of grown fond of the auto somewhat..

i was thinking i will just go a piggyback..

i noticed haltech had a few which on there internet site were for a 04 350z.... im guessing will work on our cars?

is the imobiliser only armed when the lock/unlock is used on the stndard key.. as i have an aftermarket alarm system (mongoose M80) which has its own 3pt immobiliser.. so im assuming the standard immobiliser has been dealt with? (or not :S).. or is the standard immobiliser disarmed when the key is inserted into the ignition?

if i were to go with a piggyback would this avoid all issues with the immobiliser?

thanks for all the help, sorry if i seem like abit of a dimwit when it comes to this as i havent dealt with ECU's before...

kari

rs73 Grand Master

rs73

Posted
Posted

no idea. ask the person who did your immobiliser.

mine is aftermarket 3pt immobiliser, the factory FOB key still work but it will not arm the alarm.

the FOB key has a transponder in it that transmit code to a receiver in your key barrel. if the code matches to the code programmed on your ECU, it will start the car. if not the engine will turn a bit but won't start. so even if you have an aftermarket 3pt immobiliser, the ECU code and your key is a different thing to program, nothing to do with the aftermarket immobiliser. so it's an immobiliser within immobiliser, or a secondary immobiliser thing. very complicated.

piggy back like SAFC only taps onto your a/f signal so nothing to do with immobiliser.

no idea about Haltech, etc. i'm no expert on ECU, i'm just about as dimwit as you are

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I myself AM TOTALLY UNPREPARED TO BELIEVE that the load is higher on the track than on the dyno. If it is not happening on the dyno, I cannot see it happening on the track. The difference you are seeing is because it is hot on the track, and I am pretty sure your tuner is not belting the crap out of it on teh dyno when it starts to get hot. The only way that being hot on the track can lead to real ping, that I can think of, is if you are getting more oil (from mist in the inlet tract, or going up past the oil control rings) reducing the effective octane rating of the fuel and causing ping that way. Yeah, nah. Look at this graph which I will helpfully show you zoomed back in. As an engineer, I look at the difference in viscocity at (in your case, 125°C) and say "they're all the same number". Even though those lines are not completely collapsed down onto each other, the oil grades you are talking about (40, 50 and 60) are teh top three lines (150, 220 and 320) and as far as I am concerned, there is not enough difference between them at that temperature to be meaningful. The viscosity of 60 at 125°C is teh same as 40 at 100°C. You should not operate it under high load at high temperature. That is purely because the only way they can achieve their emissions numbers is with thin-arse oil in it, so they have to tell you to put thin oil in it for the street. They know that no-one can drive the car & engine hard enough on the street to reach the operating regime that demands the actual correct oil that the engine needs on the track. And so they tell you to put that oil in for the track. Find a way to get more air into it, or, more likely, out of it. Or add a water spray for when it's hot. Or something.   As to the leak --- a small leak that cannot cause near catastrophic volume loss in a few seconds cannot cause a low pressure condition in the engine. If the leak is large enough to drop oil pressure, then you will only get one or two shots at it before the sump is drained.
    • GTSBoy
      Help! Leak coming under transmission

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      So..... it's going to be a heater hose or other coolant hose at the rear of the head/plenum. Or it's going to be one of the welch plugs on the back of the motor, which is a motor out thing to fix.
    • MBS206
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By MBS206 · Posted

      The oil pressure sensor for logging, does it happen to be the one that was slowly breaking out of the oil block? If it is,I would be ignoring your logs. You had a leak at the sensor which would mean it can't read accurately. It's a small hole at the sensor, and you had a small hole just before it, meaning you could have lost significant pressure reading.   As for brakes, if it's just fluid getting old, you won't necessarily end up with air sitting in the line. Bleed a shit tonne of fluid through so you effectively replace it and go again. Oh and, pay close attention to the pressure gauge while on track!
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I don't know it is due to that. It could just be due to load on track being more than a dyno. But it would be nice to rule it out. We're talking a fraction of a second of pulling ~1 degree of timing. So it's not a lot, but I'd rather it be 0... Thicker oil isn't really a "bandaid" if it's oil that is going to run at 125C, is it? It will be thicker at 100 and thus at 125, where the 40 weight may not be as thick as one may like for that use. I already have a big pump that has been ported. They (They in this instance being the guy that built my heads) port them so they flow more at lower RPM but have a bypass spring that I believe is ~70psi. I have seen 70psi of oil pressure up top in the past, before I knew I had this leak. I have a 25 row oil cooler that takes up all the space in the driver side guard. It is interesting that GM themselves recommend 0-30 oil for their Vette applications. Unless you take it to the track where the official word is to put 20-50w oil in there, then take that back out after your track day is done and return to 0-30.
    • PranK
      My new to me M35 Stagea wagon

      By PranK · Posted

      Nice, looks great. Nice work getting the factory parts also. Never know when you'll need them.
×
×
  • Create New...