Jump to content
SAU Community

about intercoolers..

^DRIFTIN skyliner^
 Share

Recommended Posts

^DRIFTIN skyliner^ Explorer

^DRIFTIN skyliner^

Posted
Posted

jus a question... thinking bout getting an intercooler for my r32gts-t im running the turbo at 10psi and just wantet to know what kinda performance increase say a hybrid intercooler would give and than the difference a hks one would give?>?

not sure on sizes either what would you all recommend?>? thanx ay

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/26079-about-intercoolers/
Share on other sites
Roy Grand Master

Roy

Posted
Posted

I think any reputable intercooler, Hybrid/HKS/ARE/AVO std GTR etc, of approx dimensions 600 x 300 x 60mm (approx) is going to do as good a job as one another unless you are going to be running heavy mods.

And remember depending on the type of driving you do, rocks can damage an expensive intercooler so run gauze over the bar opening

And my thoughts are make sure its covered on your insurance policy, nothing worse then haveing paid $1500 for an intercooler only to have an accident and it not be covered, as they are so easily damaged.

^DRIFTIN skyliner^ Explorer

^DRIFTIN skyliner^

Posted
  • Author
Posted

yea they cover intercoolers but id rather not spend 1500 on one ay... do u know what kinda improvement figure wise it would give my r32 runnin 10psi with a hybrid of dimensions 600x300x60mm like would i notice it.??? and does it make it drive betta when its hot like it stops the turbo etc gettin so hot?>?

Roy Grand Master

Roy

Posted
Posted

Listening to the improvements other have experienced i dont think im quite as sesnsitive to noticing hp improvements.

I did notice an improvement in top end performance, but nothing huge. Perhaps if i had the ECU re-written to suit the exhasut/filter/IC/boost then as a package it would work a lot better.

Mine is a HKS Type S cooler, and i dont think you could really tell the difference between any reputable cooler as far as performance.

Most economical will most likely be GTR cooler with painted(perhaps ceramic coated) mild steel piping. Still going to cost around $800 even doing things yourself, so shop around for a complete kit, or look to places like AVO & ARE who do complete kits for around $1200 new

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • GTSBoy
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • Kinkstaah
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...