Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok I've searched the forums to get some info in installing a boost controller and now know to make sure that the correct side of the manual boost controller is mated to the wastgate actuator and the other side to the turbo compressor housing.

My question is:

In a r33 gts-t which side of the hose (once both sides are removed from solenoid) is the wastgate actuator side? I'm not sure if it is the side closest to the firewall or the side closest to the front of the car. By "side" I mean when standing on the passenger side of the engine bay looking down at the solenoid, one side of the hose is connected to the cabin side and the other to the front side of the solenoid. I don't know which side is what.

Also, once I disconnect these hoses from the actuator, I am going to have a left over hose from the solenoid... what do I do with it? Plug it?

thanks in advance.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/26111-boost-controller-questions/
Share on other sites

I'd like to help but I'm not really knowledgable of the whole boost control setup. My car came with an electronic boost controller, and one vacuum line from it goes to the actuator. I haven't looked thoroughly enough to see where the other lines go. Your description of the actuator sounds right, if that's of any help. Sorry I couldn't help any more!

is the boost solenoid that metal thing that is near the strut tower and air box? Whatever that thing is I have taken the two rubber hoses off the top of it (one goes to actuator the other goes into the turbo) and placed the bleed valve in between the two. The valve is a DNA Motorsport valve and it doesn't seem to be boosting more than standard (about 8psi) so I'm not sure if that was the correct hose... It's too hard for me to test boost now anywayz so I might leave it till tomorrow. The neighbours have the shits, its raining and dark and all i get is sideways everytime I put my foot down :)

Hey lads,

Remove the turbo heat shield and this appears a little simpler. There is a hose that runs from the soleniod to the wastegate actuator (brass hat-thing) - the actuator is easy to identify because it has a metal arm that physically moves and opens the bypass on the exhaust side of your turbo.

When installing a bleed valve, simply cut this pipe and insert your valve. Be careful when upping your boost, these bleed valves have been known to produce boost spikes and increase a few psi boost with minimal turning of the knob.

Oh yeah, and you don't have to remove/cut any other pipes or lines for the install (unless you are installing an electronic boost controller, in which case you are supplied with a different solenoid and pressure sensor).

Hope it helps,

I was told not to cut any hoses?

If you cut the hose you won't be bypassing the factory solenoid in which case you will get your boost increase after 5000rpm. From what I've heard u don't need to cut the hose but simply "unplug" the hose from both sides of the solenoid and add in ur bleed valve.

Does anyone have a pic of their bleed valve installed? It would help heaps as I plan on tuning the boost tomorrow.

If you go to the Turbosmart website, it has installation instructions for the "Gated" Boost Controller and it has a pic of the Turbo by itself with arrows pointing to what's what.

http://www.turbosmart.com.au/pdf/FG-GBCV-BT.PDF

ok all done.

For those that are going to do this here are some tips:

The hose that you need is the one that goes from the actuator (a goldish coloured hat-shaped thing in front of the turbo) to the intercooler piping up near the airbox. You will notice a T-Piece in this hose, that t-piece goes into the boost solenoid. Start by pulling the t-piece out. In it's place put your bleed valve, remember to plug the side of your bleed valve that is supposed to be attached to the actuator line into the side of the hose closest to the actuator. With the extra hose that comes off the solenoid, I simply put a screw in it to keep it blocked.

And that's it! Should take about 10-20 mins. It really is a simple job once you find out which hose to use :P

  • 2 months later...

Thx GTR R32

http://www.greddy.com/Technical/profec_frame.htm

Im assuming the intake manifold hose is the one that leads from the plenum to the BOV?

so just use a T-fitting and connect this to the controller?

Not sure about the wastegate actuator connection though. Am I suppose to disconnect the hose that leads to the solenoid and replace it with a hose to the stepper motor?

  • 2 months later...
ok all done.

For those that are going to do this here are some tips:

The hose that you need is the one that goes from the actuator (a goldish coloured hat-shaped thing in front of the turbo) to the intercooler piping up near the airbox. You will notice a T-Piece in this hose, that t-piece goes into the boost solenoid. Start by pulling the t-piece out. In it's place put your bleed valve, remember to plug the side of your bleed valve that is supposed to be attached to the actuator line into the side of the hose closest to the actuator. With the extra hose that comes off the solenoid, I simply put a screw in it to keep it blocked.

And that's it! Should take about 10-20 mins. It really is a simple job once you find out which hose to use :D

Thanks for the quick rundown fireblade. I installed mine today with minimum fuss. I was very surprised at how easy it was once I worked out what was what. I now have my boost dialed up to 0.8 bar and it's rockin. The boost response seems much smoother across the rev range now too.

Next step is to add my new Air/Fuel ratio metre so that I can intelligently use my S-AFC(Gen 1).

Thanks again.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
×
×
  • Create New...