Jump to content
SAU Community

Water Sucked Up Through C.a.i

R34Liner

By R34Liner,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

Sheriff Wan Proficient

Sheriff Wan

Posted
Posted
why did you start another thread asking the same question?

^^ x2

If you haven't tried everything in that thread - which I'm sure you haven't why are you posting again?

You have obviously damaged something and your not up to the task of finding out what it is... It's not like is going to be a plug that isnt in all the way or something! You drove through water, you said it was bonnet height... this is not good especially when the car is trying to suck it in!!!

Bad news about the car, however, don't just post up another thread and talk about it some more - GO TO A MECHANIC and stop asking what it could be.

We can keep guessing all day though if you like...

Munkyb0y Grand Master

Munkyb0y

Posted
Posted (edited)

are you really expecting a better answer than this? (from your last thread)

he's gone to much effort to explain it to you.

go get it looked at, or try the stuff thats been recommended

if theres water in your engine............

then thats the first sign ..and the culprit to many issues that can derive from that.

you think about it....at the bottom of the sump the Oil pick up /strainer will suck oil via the pump...

pump it through and under the cylinders...... the piston rings restrain most of the oil getting into the combustion......(but older engines with worn piston rings can let oil in..thats why you see the black smoke)

water is so much more fine than engine oil.....it will make it past the piston rings for sure... hence causing pinging/knocking etc.

at this point.....its hard to say....especially not being able to see the car...

but i feel that you haven't bent anything or f**ked any bearings yet........

because you haven't run it with water in the engine for extensive periods of time...

or have you?

cause from what you explained......you didn't say whether you drove it after or not..

if you did...then there is a possibility piston rings would be the first to go as well as other things...

so like i said, get engine flush....put it in...run it for a min........drain the oil

put new oil and check your spark plugs one more time.

this way you eliminate another possible culprit......

its all about diagnostics.....

Edited by Munkyb0y

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Haggerty
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Haggerty · Posted

      I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • CF.Panda
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By CF.Panda · Posted

      AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • Haggerty
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Haggerty · Posted

      As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • AnimalGarage
      spot the stagea

      By AnimalGarage · Posted

      It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • GTSBoy
      R34 Handbrake light saying ON and intermittently flashing

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
×
×
  • Create New...