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Inner West Crew Whoretown (toowong/st Lucia/kenmore/indooroopilly And Sometimes Sunnybank?)


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Why how much you pay for yours?

Erm 3200 with tyres. Its a pretty good price too but I dont mind pay a few hundreds more for a set of newer rims. My import cals tells me that TE37 are around 3.5k excluding EMS. Which is still very cheap!!!

It's easy as buying shit off yahoo. You need to use a broker as you cant just bid if you dont have a Jap bank account however. There are loads of brokers, all charge around the same.

www.importmonster.com.au is one, there are a couple of small timer people on secret drift who are cheaper, but things may take longer as it's just a sideline business (Aussies living over there just earning some extra bucks).

Just do some re search and see who people have used.

Spoken to streeter and he seems like a genuine bloke. Only downside is he uses ONLY email but he reply very quickly (cant comment any further as I didnt end up buying anything from him).

Depends how deep the holes in the 25mm spacer are...

Heres the ones i got http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...em=360168445193

Dont know how long my studs are ill find out when im home.

i been busy azzzzzz bishes!!

see you guys tonight

tristan pussying out again?? lol muahaha *raises the pinki* your new name shall be, -Astro the pinki raiser!

got ur hubs ready....

seeya all tonight.

awwwwoooorrrsum...

Taco is here with me, brandon pussed out, geoff pussed out, tristan well.. he pussed out.

collin should be in!

should be alright turn out,

bitches were all scared of me bringing my car out.. :thumbsup:

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  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
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