Jump to content
SAU Community

Inner West Crew Whoretown (toowong/st Lucia/kenmore/indooroopilly And Sometimes Sunnybank?)

funkymonkey

By funkymonkey,
in Queensland

 Share

Recommended Posts

Brandon Veteran

Brandon

Posted
Posted
one of the mounts had to be modified - I don't have the tools or skillz to do it myself. I hate giving my car to a workshop...

You're not alone. A lot of the work requires proper tools which just cost too much. Unless you're doing it all the time, I couldnt justify buying them.

Go the front pipe and cat on today and only took 1hours to get the job done today but if I were to do it myself it would have cost 3x or 4x as much and probably a day's work. Shit thing is, the bloody Catco cat got the protection plate welded on the wrong side, so now the side thats facing the floor doesnt have anything.

Thanks Tas for fixing the front pipe and cat up for me today.

  • Replies 37.7k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • Smity42

    6056

  • Isola

    4161

  • astrotristan

    3047

  • Beelzebub89

    2843

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

FineLine
FineLine

Are you allowed to drive a turb on p plates. ?

FineLine
FineLine

They do indeed mate. doesnt matter where you live these days, if its a line its a target. Mine are kept under lock and key.

FineLine
FineLine

Yes Yes! It truly is....If you like long delays and the worst farken traffic in the state.

Posted Images

Brandon Veteran

Brandon

Posted
Posted (edited)

Nah mine's on top too but dont know if thats supposed to be the case. I thought thats for protection of the cat or something (which means it should be facing down)... -.-; Couldnt be bothered. The old cat has both side shielded.

Edited by Brandon
astrotristan Grand Master

astrotristan

Posted
Posted
the heatshield? yours ended up at the bottom?

Mine is correct (heatshield at the top)... also a catco

Nah mine's on top too but dont know if thats supposed to be the case. I thought thats for protection of the cat or something (which means it should be facing down)... -.-; Couldnt be bothered. The old cat has both side shielded.

from a total n00bs view i would say the heatshield should be facing the top (the car)

but i brandon i'd go see someone in the know who has experience, im sure someone here can recommend a joint, and get it checked out

Brandon Veteran

Brandon

Posted
Posted

If thats a heat shield and but for protection of the cat then yes I think it should be up. But the funny thing is the old 1 has it on both side. In any case, doesnt really matter. I'm happy to have everything up without any big dramas.

astrotristan Grand Master

astrotristan

Posted
Posted
but i brandon i'd go see someone in the know who has experience, im sure someone here can recommend a joint, and get it checked out

^^ and ask questions

Redsuns88 Veteran

Redsuns88

Posted
Posted

you guys are wankers :cool:

catco are preweilded cats so when we alligned it for brandon the cat senor was on the opposite side.

so in order to get everything working had to flip the cat so it all neatly bolts up

thats why brandon i told you from the very beginning to let me get you a magna flow hi flow cat as the flanges can be weilded to suit

so thristian before u start to slander me think carefully :D

Brandon Veteran

Brandon

Posted
Posted (edited)

Top.

If its serving as a heat shield then yes its better to be on top (if there's only 1 side) but it'll be better to have them on both wouldnt it? But when I look at other stainless steel ones doesnt seem like they've got any (on the photos).

Edited by Brandon
Smity42 Grand Master

Smity42

Posted
Posted

well in that case it is right. So Tas, the only reason you had to:

had to flip the cat so it all neatly bolts up

was because it was upside down in the first place :cool:. The only thing you would have acheived by buying a not pre-welded cat would be having to do more work welding the flanges on.

There is no need to have a shield on the bottom, there is no sheild protecting the rest of the exhaust underneath so why would the cat need one?

There IS (on my car anyway) a heatshield ABOVE the entire exhuast protecting the floorpan from heating up. The cat gets an extra one probably because it is a bigger source of heat than the rest of the exhaust

Redsuns88 Veteran

Redsuns88

Posted
Posted

to protect from speed bumps and what not from scratching and rupturing the actual ceramic insides?

or to protect anyone who works on the car when the cat is hot so it has a heat/bash plate on it

and simply no..

the cat senor wielded hole was on the different side matey..

astrotristan Grand Master

astrotristan

Posted
Posted
ive got a better and cheaper idea. get a straight thru pipe !! no one will ever know, cats suck !!

how many times must i say it?:)

are you boys coming up this thursday?

Smity42 Grand Master

Smity42

Posted
Posted

so I was helping a mate drop a gearbox yesterday so he can put his new lightweight flywheel on. Got the gearbox off OK, but got to the flywheel bolts and his snap-on battery rattle gun wouldnt even budge them. After ruining one socket and then trying another one, we drove all the way back to my place (he lives miles fking northside) to pick up the ute and my compressor. It also couldn't undo the bolts! Eventually we got 5 of them off, but 1 was still stuck. So now he has no car to get to work today, lol.

I have pulled many a flywheel off before, none have been as much of a c*nt as this one.

On the bright side it meant I didn't have to help him get the gearbox back on :)

32_Dave Mentor

32_Dave

Posted
Posted
so I was helping a mate drop a gearbox yesterday so he can put his new lightweight flywheel on. Got the gearbox off OK, but got to the flywheel bolts and his snap-on battery rattle gun wouldnt even budge them. After ruining one socket and then trying another one, we drove all the way back to my place (he lives miles fking northside) to pick up the ute and my compressor. It also couldn't undo the bolts! Eventually we got 5 of them off, but 1 was still stuck. So now he has no car to get to work today, lol.

I have pulled many a flywheel off before, none have been as much of a c*nt as this one.

On the bright side it meant I didn't have to help him get the gearbox back on :)

did ya try heating the bolts and just using a normal breaker bar?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Latest Posts

    • Haggerty
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Haggerty · Posted

      I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • CF.Panda
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By CF.Panda · Posted

      AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • Haggerty
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Haggerty · Posted

      As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • AnimalGarage
      spot the stagea

      By AnimalGarage · Posted

      It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • GTSBoy
      R34 Handbrake light saying ON and intermittently flashing

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
×
×
  • Create New...