Jump to content
SAU Community

Inner West Crew Whoretown (toowong/st Lucia/kenmore/indooroopilly And Sometimes Sunnybank?)


Recommended Posts

umm looks pretty scary outside, ive covered her all up. hope the plastic dont leak :down:

saw a couple of holes in your covers :P , hope it does hold off. Underside looks real nice. Awesome job boys.

Shan turns out the D-max aus is fake and no one should buy it!

its actually racespec thats using a D-max business card and sources parts actually not from D-max but cheap shit like DMD

shan i sent you a email with .zip fileE!!!!! answer me bish!!! i need it done mate to get your overfenders mate!!!

oh and about the front bar for the R32??

found my so called setup for the time being!

2003635688296282382_rs.jpg

2003695429584753463_rs.jpg

looks like im getting d-max overfenders too black man! edit: shan :P

anyone who wants D-max gear should contact me directly!

Edited by Redsuns88
that lip is f**king epic.

how'd the 180 go?

taR

180 was good - just the turbo proved painful - we were setting it up but then realised that we didnt have an adapter for the oil lines, so shes not going to be ready until next weekk

and yeh - that lip kit is amazing, hint hint

so 1 more week of RB goodness eh tristan. I can't see any of those pics cus work comp is being gay :banana:

Greasy roads on the way to work this morning were good fun :domokun:

lol tas, that car is sporting mad Do-Luck front sides n rear... I'm not using the front cos I prefer my front bar to it, lot more aggro. but yeah uleh, hook me up with dmax's i'll have a look at your stuff tonight.

I threw up on my keyboard and I blame you..Now I'll have to eat breakfast all over again...

+1 :domokun:

just grab a spoon and eat it off the keyboard.

I solve problems.

Thanks . . . that actually works

finally got the underneath fully seem sealed and 2k primed this morning. tomorrow i will sand it back lighty and spray the black (plz not look like nissan stnd black :domokun: ) lol, then ill put some deadner in the arches and through the tunnel.

P9050001.jpg

mmm white goodness, and a sneak preview of how stealth the welded bolt on mounts look (i started off neat seem sealing then started to seal like josh and his sunroof) but still looks the part. no rust for DAVE

yay

P9050004.jpg

peace out.

that's not stealth, that looks like you cut a bit of your floor out and welded in a plate. then took an enema and around where it was welded you had a fluid, bubbly stream of shit to line it. then you painted over it to cover it up.

that's not stealth, that looks like you cut a bit of your floor out and welded in a plate. then took an enema and around where it was welded you had a fluid, bubbly stream of shit to line it. then you painted over it to cover it up.

you were close but no cigar. there is a plate either side welded to the floor plan. and as i said i seem sealed it josh stylez.

can you tell now.

P9050001-1.jpg

glad i did the underside, got a few runs, needa tweek my gun abit. its good that its underneath but still it could be better.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
×
×
  • Create New...