Jump to content
SAU Community

Inner West Crew Whoretown (toowong/st Lucia/kenmore/indooroopilly And Sometimes Sunnybank?)


Recommended Posts

okay noobs.

Electrical is far better then a mechanical boost gauge. And no electrical doesn't mean that the gauge lights up its to do with the sender. defari if you go with tristans sugestion and order a autogauge electronic boost gauge you'll be more than happy and we should be able to work you out a good price 10% discount on rrp.

the gauge im referring you to is:

http://justjap.com/store/product.php?produ...=400&page=1

270 stepper motor = type of motor, with 270 degrees motion

peak recall = this recalls the max boost you hit during a drive, great for tuning you t-piece.

bang for buck you cannot go wrong, but if you have loads of cash by all means get defi's.

What can you do? Want to do? Dont care?

At the moment not really fussed hey. What I WANT to do, is pannel beating/spray painting. What I can do is a great range of things because I've done a bit of everything over the years. I just want the dollars rollin' in yo :):happy:

broad minded persons!

have to come to my shop today to have a beer with me!

pffft, as if drink that women's nectar :down:

Mechanical ftw

uhhhh... you might be thinking about analogue vs digital, brah :)

huh?

kevin you're killing me, electronic owns

+1

electronic ALWAYS better than mechanical (y)

+1

Rather do some research about the companies that make it if u want a more spot on accurate gauge..

Defi aka Nippon seki has been in the watch industry alot longer and thus more accurate guage

if u want cheap shit that looks like defis but not the real deal... more wiring and more hassle.. be like 32 dave and buy autogauge..

if u want less wiring, easier plug and play more accurate reading then defi is the way to go..

everyone will have their own thoughts..

Rather do some research about the companies that make it if u want a more spot on accurate gauge..

Defi aka Nippon seki has been in the watch industry alot longer and thus more accurate guage

if u want cheap shit that looks like defis but not the real deal... more wiring and more hassle.. be like 32 dave and buy autogauge..

if u want less wiring, easier plug and play more accurate reading then defi is the way to go..

everyone will have their own thoughts..

yes defi are the shit,

and after them apexi and blitz are the best option

but for our application and bang for buck - autogauge is sweet

i mean just looking on nengun now - a defi boost gauge is $225, and that doesnt include the controller, whereas the autogauge is just under $100

it depends on your budget, what you want out of your car, and where you want to take it

Rather do some research about the companies that make it if u want a more spot on accurate gauge..

Defi aka Nippon seki has been in the watch industry alot longer and thus more accurate guage

if u want cheap shit that looks like defis but not the real deal... more wiring and more hassle.. be like 32 dave and buy autogauge..

if u want less wiring, easier plug and play more accurate reading then defi is the way to go..

everyone will have their own thoughts..

autogauge has been in the game for a long time. and there not cheap shit. when you say more wiring and more hassle, doesn't sound like you'v had much to do with this series of gauge, they make shit very easy, it'd be less wiring then the defi's considering they need that control box. autogauge consist of getting power to 1 gauge and then it loops in and out through plug in wiring harness, then all you need is the sensor and the wire going to the sensor, i don't see how that's more hassle ???

sweet, i was gonna go and get one of those crappy sabre ones from autobarn for like 80 bucks, but yeah if you guys recommend the auto gauge ill go with that..

not looking to go big hp car, keeping it stock but just wanting to know what boost its running as it has a manual controller, not sure what its boosting at the moment..

Thats nengun's prices.. have u even bothered to look else where??

if ur not willing the spend the money.. then go buy some sabers.. cheap pos like autometer..

LOL

GL for accuracy too

Blitz and apexi guages are just like omori guages.. good but not that great..just wiring slapped togehter and sealed with braneded logo..

prob 10-12psi would sit nice, depends do u want an excuse for a new turb? Its just trial and error with the t-pieces, start low and wind you way up and use the gauge to tell you were u sit.

autogauge has been in the game for a long time. and there not cheap shit. when you say more wiring and more hassle, doesn't sound like you'v had much to do with this series of gauge, they make shit very easy, it'd be less wiring then the defi's considering they need that control box. autogauge consist of getting power to 1 gauge and then it loops in and out through plug in wiring harness, then all you need is the sensor and the wire going to the sensor, i don't see how that's more hassle ???

What are u two doing.. blowing eachother while sitting next to each other??..

sure autogauge been in the market for a while.. but its just like saying.. yea.. power and spirit products been in the market a long time too..

a control box?

one wire goes into that? and control box goes to a power source?

sounds like u havnt touch that either..

You do realise Autometer and Autogauge are owned and made by the same people in the US "Autometer" Just happens to have a huge range of gauges no matter your budget.

Have you even looked at their style of guages?

its just like Drift style gauges..

i think your better off going to patch up your shell mate if u want to talk products with me :happy:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
×
×
  • Create New...