Jump to content
SAU Community

Inner West Crew Whoretown (toowong/st Lucia/kenmore/indooroopilly And Sometimes Sunnybank?)


Recommended Posts

After researching it seems like water pump failure isnt that uncommon. The car has never been overheated before but I've filled the reservoir up 3 or 4 times with coolent since my last service (8000km).

I can see coolent residue on the car when its up on hoist too but never a patch of green stuff when I park.

What I wanna know is how is the system diagram like... what goes where. I might try googling and see if anything comes up.

ps: I'm hoping its the water pump because I'm changing that out this weekend for major service!

Wow you do long service intervals. Mines lucky to see 5,000k's without the oil and filter been changed.

Yeah I've heard the water pumps do fail a fair bit. Make sure they put an n1 item back on since your car is an n1 and not a standard pump. They aren't much more and if the car gets rev'd a bit will help stop cavatation.

The bottom of your radiator hose should go into the water pump which is on the front of your engine.

Up the top should come out of the head and into the thermostat and then over to the top of the radiator.

From the radiator cap there should be a line running to the resevoir.

Also there is a Thermo switch at the bottom and a drain plug to check.

post-70860-1278471059_thumb.jpg

There is a air drain plug in the side of the head, just in front of the injectors

post-70860-1278470846_thumb.jpg

And then there are the heater lines that should come from the engine block/head and run into the car. One of mine looks like it comes from the thermo housing and around the front of the engine. Not sure but maybe someone can clarify this.

@John, Phil

I is going to take a 'strayen day tomorrow, but I don't feel like driving to aspley just for the privelidge of driving back to petrie :D. If you can give me a ring when you leave aspley I'll meet you on the way

Phil, if you have my alfa bits back can you bring em along? If not, don't worry.

@John, Phil

I is going to take a 'strayen day tomorrow, but I don't feel like driving to aspley just for the privelidge of driving back to petrie :P . If you can give me a ring when you leave aspley I'll meet you on the way

Phil, if you have my alfa bits back can you bring em along? If not, don't worry.

I am also taking a strayen day tomorrow but have to pick up my daughter so will only be making the trip some of the way. Tim have your alfa bits will drop them off tomoz.

You owe me :P:D

After researching it seems like water pump failure isnt that uncommon. The car has never been overheated before but I've filled the reservoir up 3 or 4 times with coolent since my last service (8000km).

I can see coolent residue on the car when its up on hoist too but never a patch of green stuff when I park.

What I wanna know is how is the system diagram like... what goes where. I might try googling and see if anything comes up.

ps: I'm hoping its the water pump because I'm changing that out this weekend for major service!

i wouldnt mind betting you are losing that water from where the top plastic tank joins the main core of your radiator, super common

Wow you do long service intervals. Mines lucky to see 5,000k's without the oil and filter been changed.

Yeah I've heard the water pumps do fail a fair bit. Make sure they put an n1 item back on since your car is an n1 and not a standard pump. They aren't much more and if the car gets rev'd a bit will help stop cavatation.

The bottom of your radiator hose should go into the water pump which is on the front of your engine.

Up the top should come out of the head and into the thermostat and then over to the top of the radiator.

From the radiator cap there should be a line running to the resevoir.

Also there is a Thermo switch at the bottom and a drain plug to check.

post-70860-1278471059_thumb.jpg

There is a air drain plug in the side of the head, just in front of the injectors

post-70860-1278470846_thumb.jpg

And then there are the heater lines that should come from the engine block/head and run into the car. One of mine looks like it comes from the thermo housing and around the front of the engine. Not sure but maybe someone can clarify this.

Thanks for that mate. I hope that'll be fixed this weekend. I have already order the N1 water pump. Gonna keep the car as close to stock as possible.

The service duration of 5000km to me is over the top (I cant never understand why because factory doesnt even do them that often). I dont flog the shit outta my car and at the same time, my mechanic told me royal purple is good for more than 10000km if I wish but he'll set the next oil change at 8000km. I've been doing that for the last 2 oil changes and the car drives like new.

Well Ive just come off the track, in a good way (via pit lane)...

PS> This circuit makes my bunghole shrink rapidly coming into the corners...

We are now got a hour to relax and eat before the debriefing and timing sheets come out...

Im starving just wanted to log on to update fb... :D

That is f**kin awesome. Prodrive are pretty involved in the WRC aswell aren't they?

Ummmm not sure... I know they big into circuit racing, ill ask...

Thanks for that mate. I hope that'll be fixed this weekend. I have already order the N1 water pump. Gonna keep the car as close to stock as possible.

The service duration of 5000km to me is over the top (I cant never understand why because factory doesnt even do them that often). I dont flog the shit outta my car and at the same time, my mechanic told me royal purple is good for more than 10000km if I wish but he'll set the next oil change at 8000km. I've been doing that for the last 2 oil changes and the car drives like new.

Yeah as Bunta said, check your core.

Sounds good mate. Yeah I do it as a safety because as an engine gets older the rings allow more blow by and with the increased boost its not really helping the matter. lol Suprisingly my gtr has very little but good insurance. With the fuel dilution of the oil it does affect it fairly badly and can also lead to pitting of the camshafts, etc. So thats the only reason I do it. Each to there own.

How much do you get the royal purple for and where do you get it from if you don't mind me asking? And what grade do you use?

Heard some good stuff about this.

Cheers

Edited by 32vspec2gtr
Well Ive just come off the track, in a good way (via pit lane)...

PS> This circuit makes my bunghole shrink rapidly coming into the corners...

We are now got a hour to relax and eat before the debriefing and timing sheets come out...

Im starving just wanted to log on to update fb... :D

Ummmm not sure... I know they big into circuit racing, ill ask...

So how does a general smo ( i.e me ) get to have a crack at what your doing ?

Say what?

I have just worked two 12 hour days and was supposed to have my daughter yesterday. So because of that I have to pick her up tomorrow. She lives in ipswich so I'll accompany you on part of the trip and leave you when i get to ipswich. If thats to much of a issue then I won't be able to attend at all.

The service duration of 5000km to me is over the top (I cant never understand why because factory doesnt even do them that often). I dont flog the shit outta my car and at the same time, my mechanic told me royal purple is good for more than 10000km if I wish but he'll set the next oil change at 8000km. I've been doing that for the last 2 oil changes and the car drives like new.

That's because "factory" normally doesn't service 15-20 year old cars (with a handful of exceptions like the ones Dan works on). Especially when they weren't even sold from "factory" in the country.

You will find that a lot of places change oil or spark plugs (or at least clean the plugs) every 5000kms though. And yes, your oil may be good for 8000/10000kms... but is your filter good for that long too? I'd at least be flushing/dropping the oil, replacing the filter and putting the oil back in (which is probably what your mechanic is planning by making you come in 2000kms early). It's not just about how many kms are on the speedo either. If your car idles a lot, and you baby/granny it and never get into high revs territory then you're going to get a lot of carbon build up that needs to be taken care of.

You should also regularly check the spray pattern on your AFMs to make sure that they're not restricting you :D

But as Matt said. To each their own. If you're not into regular maintenance and just want periodic maintenance then fine. I'd rather spend a couple of extra bucks and give my car the best though. You could save heaps of money by doing all the minor services yourself too... just fyi.

I have just worked two 12 hour days and was supposed to have my daughter yesterday. So because of that I have to pick her up tomorrow. She lives in ipswich so I'll accompany you on part of the trip and leave you when i get to ipswich. If thats to much of a issue then I won't be able to attend at all.

So are you going to be going to Ipswich from Somerset? or...?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Apologies for the long post, but needed somewhere to lay out the entire timeline of events and actions taken:   I've got an 89 GTR with a R34 RB in it. It's been running great all year, driven probably 500KM in the last month. It's not my daily driver, just a weekend fun car.    Build info: R34 RB26 - HKS 2.7 stroker kit, HKS adjustable cam gears, HKS turbo upgrades, Trust intercooler, R34 factory DENSO 440cc injectors, JUN chipped/tuned R32 ECU. All of this work was performed in Japan back in 2019.    Thursday 10/2/25 - It's a nice day and decided I'll drive it to work, I start it up in the garage and I notice it took a few extra cranks and sounded a bit funny. I figure maybe it was just because it was a pretty chilly morning. I pull it out into the driveway to warm up a bit before leaving. As I leave the driveway, it feels very off and sounds like a misfire. I pull it back in the garage to deal with after work and take the daily to work. I was able to diagnose it as a cylinder 5 misfire with the old spark plug test (unplugging each plug until a sound change with the engine running). I take off the whole ignition system, ignitor, plugs, spark. *Important note, it is still on the R32 ignition system with the separate ignitor system. I test each system with a multi-meter and nothing presents as a smoking gun. I put it all back together and it starts up no issue. I go ahead and order the PRP R35 ignition conversion kit. It should arrive today (10/13/25)   Friday 10/3/25 - Another nice day, car starts up great and drives great all day. Very pleased that everything seems to be OK   Sunday 10/5/25 - Decided I'll take it to play some golf, load up and drive to the course about 25 minutes away. Drives wonderful the whole way there, I pull in the parking lot and the engine completely comes to a stop. I do not recall if it sputtered at all, but just remember all of the sudden the engine was off. I roll it into a parking spot, try to crank it back on and nothing.  It'll crank and crank and not even try to start. End up getting it towed back to my house and push it up into the garage.    Items I have checked: Fuel in the tank Fuel Pump relay Fuel pump fuse  Spark Plugs & gap Coil packs Ignitor    I know the cylinders are getting fuel as the plugs smell like fuel after a start attempt. I tried spraying starter fluid into the manifold and cranking and not even a sputter.    I decided to do the live CAS test (removing the the CAS, ignition on and spinning the CAS stalk to see if the injectors pulse and spark is active). All of the injectors were pulsing and I have spark at the plug. The half-moon end of the CAS did seem very loose, I'm not sure how much play is supposed to be there, but it was more than I expected. There was no in/out play of the shaft, just the tip end that is pinned on had quite a bit of play.    CAS Play video   When I put the CAS back in, I stupidly did not re-time the engine. I know I need to do that tonight, however, I do not think it will start given it seemingly was not the issue. My plan is to do the PRP R35 coil kit and retime the engine at the same time.    I plan on ordering the Haltech Nexus Plug-in ECU once they are available again, but ideally would like to get this sorted before firing the parts cannon at it and potentially adding more variables.    Anything glaring that I am missing here, I'm a bit at a loss?          
    • Get it on a dyno. Get something logging Consult. Run it up and find out what is causing it.
    • Looking for a plenum for rb25 de+t neo  Not looking to push much power maybe 300kw at the wheels, is there much difference in flow for Freddy “Greddy style” compared to original Greddy or options like Proflow or Otaku garage?    I won’t be porting the de Neo head for now as I think it’ll be fine 280-300rwkw but appreciate the help and any experiences anyone has between them and any advice. Thanks  Looking at this plenum for now below 
    • engine wise almost no mods: stock ecu Greddy front mount intercooler Greddy forward facing intake w R33 TB stock fuel system, stock injectors, rail etc. Kakimoto racing hyper 3 inch exhaust system Apexi intake filter New NGK –R BCPRES (.8 gap) plugs  
    • Nice one @Pac - looks like a fair few 1600's there! 
×
×
  • Create New...