Jump to content
SAU Community

Inner West Crew Whoretown (toowong/st Lucia/kenmore/indooroopilly And Sometimes Sunnybank?)


Recommended Posts

O RLY?

That might be easier then.

Does you has the rest of the Stargate stuff too?

Yup. I has it all

Currently going through NCIS.

It's not bad when you watch it straight. But I have managed to get through two seasons in about 10 days. :|

3 more to go :blink:

Yeah when I got hooked on NCIS i was just watching ep after ep :S

I still has 95GB left for the next 16 days. I think it's time to download some stuff :blink:

Ive got a whopping 40 at the moment which lasts about two weeks.

Im getting on tpg $50 120gb in the next few when I finish moving house.

I lie, I havent actually done anything to contribute to the moving house, i just made the missus pack everything.

Ive got a whopping 40 at the moment which lasts about two weeks.

Im getting on tpg $50 120gb in the next few when I finish moving house.

I lie, I havent actually done anything to contribute to the moving house, i just made the missus pack everything.

That's the best way to do it. You just put a saucepan in each room, thus turning it into a kitchen, and making it her problem :blink:

Radpants :blink:

Well... I'll download the seasons of 24 I don't have then.

Anyone need anything downloaded?

Any chance you can find the Bud Spencer and Terrence Hill movie collection

Been trying to find it and have had no luck

Any chance you can find the Bud Spencer and Terrence Hill movie collection

Been trying to find it and have had no luck

Can you link me to something on them so I know what I'm looking for? I've never heard of them before :D

Then if I can find them I'll get them for you :rofl2:

if you didnt have the coil pack cover on you would have seen an awesome show....

kinda like those fountain fireworks you see :rofl2: just with more fire and massive electrical arcs

if you didnt have the coil pack cover on you would have seen an awesome show....

kinda like those fountain fireworks you see :rofl2: just with more fire and massive electrical arcs

Any ideas what would have caused it?

So the 31 has number plates now. I drove it home through the mountains and it is really nervous up front I think it is in desperate need of a wheel alignment lol. Other than that it drives fairly well for a car with nearly 360,000kms on it lol. Dan what time is futsal tomorrow?

hlyian: age, coil packs die out, some half arse it on exit, others like to go off with a bang. If it blows another set the same then take it to an auto sparky though....

Colin: 8:40pm mang, what do you mean by nervous? like doesn't want to turn in? if so, thats normal on a stock r31

So the 31 has number plates now. I drove it home through the mountains and it is really nervous up front I think it is in desperate need of a wheel alignment lol. Other than that it drives fairly well for a car with nearly 360,000kms on it lol.

How's the temp holding up? Do we get to see it on Thursday?

How's the temp holding up? Do we get to see it on Thursday?

http://www.xs4all.nl/~hopmans/BHdvd.htm

that's the titles. old school spaghetti westerns

used to love this shit back in the day, in the mother country, the fabled land of the winking fox

http://www.xs4all.nl/~hopmans/BHdvd.htm

that's the titles. old school spaghetti westerns

used to love this shit back in the day, in the mother country, the fabled land of the winking fox

found a couple, but not many sources. I'll see how I go :down:

hlyian: age, coil packs die out, some half arse it on exit, others like to go off with a bang. If it blows another set the same then take it to an auto sparky though....

Colin: 8:40pm mang, what do you mean by nervous? like doesn't want to turn in? if so, thats normal on a stock r31

Nah it turns too well. It is very twitchy up front. That and it bounces over the road with all the uneven surfaces in the mountains. Wheel alignment should calm it down at bit. bouncyness is probably from stiff shocks/springs

How's the temp holding up? Do we get to see it on Thursday?

Same as before. It doesnt go off the scale it just stays at like 3/4

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
    • It was picked up on the MOT/Inspection that the offside front wheel bearing had excessive play along with the ball joint. It made sense to do both sides so I sourced a pair of spare IS200 hubs to do the swap. Unfortunately I don't have any photos of the strip down but here's a quick run down. On the back of the hub is a large circular dust cover, using a flat head screw driver and a mallet I prised it off. Underneath will reveal a 32mm hub nut (impact gun recommended). With the hub nut removed the ABS ring can be removed (I ended up using a magnetic pick up tool to help). Next up is to remove the stub axle, this was a little trickier due to limited tools. I tried a 3 leg puller but the gap between the hub and stub axle wasn't enough for the legs to get in and under. Next option was a lump hammer and someone pulling the stub axle at the same time. After a few heavy hits it released. The lower bearing race had seized itself onto the stub axle, which was fine because I was replacing them anyway. With the upper bearing race removed and the grease cleaned off they looked like this The left one looked pristine inside but gave us the most trouble. The right one had some surface rust but came apart in a single hit, figure that out?! I got a local garage to press the new wheel bearings in, reassemble was the opposite and didn't take long at all. Removing the hub itself was simple. Starting with removing the brake caliper, 2x 14mm bolts for the caliper slider and 2x 19mm? for the carrier > hub bolts. I used a cable tie to secure the caliper to the upper arm so it was out of the way, there's a 10mm bolt securing the ABS sensor on. With the brake disc removed from the hub next are the three castle nuts for the upper and lower ball joints and track rod end. Two of these had their own R clip and one split pin. A few hits with the hammer and they're released (I left the castle nuts on by a couple of turns), the track rod ends gave me the most grief and I may have nipped the boots (oops). Fitting is the reversal and is very quick and easy to do. The lower ball joints are held onto the hub by 2x 17mm bolts. The castle nut did increase in socket size to 22mm from memory (this may vary from supplier) The two front tyres weren't in great condition, so I had those replaced with some budget tyres for the time being. I'll be replacing the wheels and tyres in the future, this was to get me on the road without the worry of the police hassling me.
    • Yep, the closest base tune available was for the GTT, I went with that and made all the logical changes I could find to convert it to Naturally Aspirated. It will rev fine in Neutral to redline but it will be cutting nearly 50% fuel the whole way.  If I let it tune the fuel map to start with that much less fuel it wont run right and has a hard time applying corrections.  These 50% cuts are with a fuel map already about half of what the GTT tune had.  I was having a whole lot of bogging when applying any throttle but seem to have fixed that for no load situations with very aggressive transient throttle settings. I made the corrections to my injectors with data I found for them online, FBCJC100 flowing 306cc.  I'll have to look to see if I can find the Cam section. I have the Bosch 4.9 from Haltech. My manifold pressure when watching it live is always in -5.9 psi/inHg
    • Hi My Tokico BM50 Brake master cylinder has a leak from the hole between the two outlets (M10x1) for brake pipes, I have attached a photo. Can anyone tell me what that hole is and what has failed to allow brake fluid to escape from it, I have looked on line and asked questions on UK forums but can not find the answer, if anyone can enlighten me I would be most grateful.
    • It will be a software setting. I don't believe many on here ever used AEM. And they're now a discontinued product,that's really hard to find any easy answers on. If it were Link or Haltech, someone would be able to just send you a ECU file though.
×
×
  • Create New...