Jump to content
SAU Community

Inner West Crew Whoretown (toowong/st Lucia/kenmore/indooroopilly And Sometimes Sunnybank?)


Recommended Posts

Morning Mangs,

Bridge @ Petrie closed again :(. Made it a hell of job to get to work.

Weekend was good. Sat morning went shopping for boots, gloves, work clothes, etc. Got a sweet bright orange shirt off the discount rack, and some second hand army boots :). Then went in and helped clean up sludge. Sun went and admired VQ35 powered R31 roar into life, then did the mowing etc. Mowing took ages and still didn't get it finished because the damn mower kept breaking :(. Then watched the cricket. OMFG won two matches in a row now!

morning ya'll

gotta drive to zillmere this morning

hopefully the traffic is not ridiculous

According to the news, CBD traffic is shit.

Nothing crazy over this side of town though

Hahaha no thanks

Anyone have ideas for how to make a pressure tester for my piping?

I'm thinking PVC end cap, drill small hole in side, insert bike tyre air screw part, seal around the edges and hook up to compressor.

Replace AFM with this item and listen for leaks in piping??

Will PVC withstand 10psi?

@Colin:

May have to wait a while to sort out that PC:

HRGH7.jpg

http://www.atomicmpc.com.au/News/244645,aussie-tech-retailer-umart-suffers-in-brisbane.aspx

Apparantly they are aranging suppliers to have stock sent to their Eight Mile Plains and Sunshine Coast stores, so keep an eye on the stocks for whichever one of them is closest to you.

@Ravbat:

It'll be under vacume at idle, you can spray WD40 or something similar at places that might leak (joins in pipework, etc) and the idle should pick up momentarily when the WD40 blocks the air leak. It may also buble a bit.

How were you planning to listen to it while boosting? It won't build much boost in Neutral (no load). Ignore me...

Edited by Smity42

Sarp mangs. I had a good weekend. Did pretty much f**k all. Got home from work at 2:30ish and went out and bought COD Black Ops and GT5. After that I barely moved off the couch lol. :thumbsup:

lol. GT5 = WIN!

morning ya'll

gotta drive to zillmere this morning

hopefully the traffic is not ridiculous

Triffic is a little bit nutty today...

Morning Mangs,

Bridge @ Petrie closed again :(. Made it a hell of job to get to work.

Weekend was good. Sat morning went shopping for boots, gloves, work clothes, etc. Got a sweet bright orange shirt off the discount rack, and some second hand army boots :). Then went in and helped clean up sludge. Sun went and admired VQ35 powered R31 roar into life, then did the mowing etc. Mowing took ages and still didn't get it finished because the damn mower kept breaking :(. Then watched the cricket. OMFG won two matches in a row now!

I was considering getting into the slop of it all, but we had trouble getting in. Nat went out around 4.30pm yesterday and had trouble getting anywhere near a place to help....

According to the news, CBD traffic is shit.

Nothing crazy over this side of town though

Nothing is too crazy over this side either :-)

Unless you want to get here from Petrie... :(

Pass.... ;-)

Hahaha no thanks

Anyone have ideas for how to make a pressure tester for my piping?

I'm thinking PVC end cap, drill small hole in side, insert bike tyre air screw part, seal around the edges and hook up to compressor.

Replace AFM with this item and listen for leaks in piping??

Will PVC withstand 10psi?

PVC will be fine with 10psi. I would suggest you get some 75mm piping and an endcap. Seal it with plumbers glue. It's not too expensive. Drill a hole in the end and tap it to suit a fitting that you can plug into that seals.

Keep in mind you should block off all rocker cover breathers, etc, as this gives the air an escape path from the piping. You may end up giving your engine an involuntary lease down.... haha

@Ravbat:

It'll be under vacume at idle, you can spray WD40 or something similar at places that might leak (joins in pipework, etc) and the idle should pick up momentarily when the WD40 blocks the air leak. It may also buble a bit.

How were you planning to listen to it while boosting? It won't build much boost in Neutral (no load).

The engine's not gonna be on, just block off the throttle plate and replace AFM with tester, pump with air compressor/bike pump etc and listen for leaks.

PVC will be fine with 10psi. I would suggest you get some 75mm piping and an endcap. Seal it with plumbers glue. It's not too expensive. Drill a hole in the end and tap it to suit a fitting that you can plug into that seals.

Keep in mind you should block off all rocker cover breathers, etc, as this gives the air an escape path from the piping. You may end up giving your engine an involuntary lease down.... haha

Yeah, as above will block off throttle/intake so it doesn't even get to the motor.

Thanks for the info too man

Next question is how to block the throttle end of the piping??

@Colin:

May have to wait a while to sort out that PC:

HRGH7.jpg

http://www.atomicmpc...n-brisbane.aspx

Apparantly they are aranging suppliers to have stock sent to their Eight Mile Plains and Sunshine Coast stores, so keep an eye on the stocks for whichever one of them is closest to you.

@Ravbat:

It'll be under vacume at idle, you can spray WD40 or something similar at places that might leak (joins in pipework, etc) and the idle should pick up momentarily when the WD40 blocks the air leak. It may also buble a bit.

How were you planning to listen to it while boosting? It won't build much boost in Neutral (no load). Ignore me...

Ah shit. I ordered everything from the Milton store so I'll call up the logan one today and see if they can get my order n shit.

I was considering getting into the slop of it all, but we had trouble getting in. Nat went out around 4.30pm yesterday and had trouble getting anywhere near a place to help....

Yeah we had to drive around for a while before we found somewhere that wasn't swamped with volunteers. Eventaully found a street in st lucia (not far from my old place) that seemed to just have the people that lived there and their friends/family, so we stopped and helped there.

Quiet weekend, tried to fall off the roof cleanig the gutters out. Gave up and started drinking instead. Does anyone have a blower/ vac I could borrow for a weekend?

Jez, I've got a blower/vac you can borrow. It has a few little puncture holes in the bag, but it still works ok.

McFly, what year Z32 ECU do you have? When do you want me to do the mods on it for you? You'll get the best results using a Z32 AFM also... They tend to run pig rich with R33 items.

McFly, what year Z32 ECU do you have? When do you want me to do the mods on it for you? You'll get the best results using a Z32 AFM also... They tend to run pig rich with R33 items.

I have two coming from Japland (one for me, one for the terrorist), but I don't have them yet. Both should be the 8-bit ones (for type 2 nistune board). Whenever they rock up and I confirm they are right (and confirm my consult wiring is all good etc), I'll order the nistune. Then I'll need you to mod it whenever you can fit it in with your busy schedule... :).

Yeah I have a Z32 AFM and plug on the way as well. Im also looking at possibly getting injectors, fuel pump, and coil packs so I only need to pay for a tune once... but we'll see.

Timeframe will probably mostly depend on how badly post is affected by all the floods...

YAY!!! nistune !!!!

GTS is coming apart today for the week, time for epic rust removal so i can put the carpet back into my car without it getting wet everytime i drive it in the rain or park it not undercover

I have two coming from Japland (one for me, one for the terrorist), but I don't have them yet. Both should be the 8-bit ones (for type 2 nistune board). Whenever they rock up and I confirm they are right (and confirm my consult wiring is all good etc), I'll order the nistune. Then I'll need you to mod it whenever you can fit it in with your busy schedule... :).

Yeah I have a Z32 AFM and plug on the way as well. Im also looking at possibly getting injectors, fuel pump, and coil packs so I only need to pay for a tune once... but we'll see.

Timeframe will probably mostly depend on how badly post is affected by all the floods...

Excellent. How long do you think until you'll have it? I can mod it to run your car without throwing codes etc. You'll be able to drive around with it, no probs. Once you get the nistune board, I can solder that up for you too.

YAY!!! nistune !!!!

GTS is coming apart today for the week, time for epic rust removal so i can put the carpet back into my car without it getting wet everytime i drive it in the rain or park it not undercover

Yay for non-wet-feet.

Excellent. How long do you think until you'll have it? I can mod it to run your car without throwing codes etc. You'll be able to drive around with it, no probs. Once you get the nistune board, I can solder that up for you too.

Cool cool :)

How long? Under normal circumstances I would say probably early next week, perhaps even late this week. But who knows how the postal routes have been affected? I still havent got my CONSULT cable, it may well be a flood casualty for all I know or it could be sitting at an aus post depot somewhere waiting for the trucks to be able to get through...

Back from not being flooded in. Yay.

Found this in my letter box.

I asked is the reason WHY they are unmarked because they will cause iradict driving due to heavy braking and possibly causing accidents in the tunnel.

Not that it really matters since no one uses the tunnel anyways.

img-1171225-0001.pdf

Hey Jason,

Good to see you survived floodagaddon. I was worried you might be a floodzombie untill I saw you posting on faceparty.

I found an email from you in my hotmail yesterday, the one you sent before the floods with the epic rain forecast. I should have read it back then :P

Hooray for not being flooderized!

It's good to see that they actually took the time to reply to your letter.

I use the tunnels. It cuts 10mins off for me and work pays for my tolls, so why wouldn't I? It's easy enough to spot the cameras though.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • The other problem was one of those "oh shit we are going to die moments". Basically the high spec Q50s have a full electric steering rack, and the povo ones had a regular hydraulic rack with an electric pump.  So couple of laps into session 5 as I came into turn 2 (big run off now, happily), the dash turned into a christmas tree and the steering became super heavy and I went well off. I assumed it was a tyre failure so limped to the pits, but everything was OK. But....the master warning light was still on so I checked the DTCs and saw – C13E6 “Heat Protection”. Yes, that bloody steering rack computer sitting where the oil cooler should be has its own sensors and error logic, and decided I was using the steering wheel too much. I really appreciated the helpful information in the manual (my bold) POSSIBLE CAUSE • Continuing the overloading steering (Sports driving in the circuit etc,) “DATA MONITOR” >> “C/M TEMPERATURE”. The rise of steering force motor internal temperature caused the protection function to operate. This is not a system malfunction. INSPECTION END So, basically the electric motor in the steering rack got to 150c, and it decided to shut down without warning for my safety. Didn't feel safe. Short term I'll see if I can duct some air to that motor (the engine bay is sealed pretty tight). Long term, depending on how often this happens, I'll look into swapping the povo spec electric/hydraulic rack in. While the rack should be fine the power supply to the pump will be a pain and might be best to deal with it when I add a PDM.
    • And finally, 2 problems I really need to sort.  Firstly as Matt said the auto trans is not happy as it gets hot - I couldn't log the temps but the gauge showed 90o. On the first day I took it out back in Feb, because the coolant was getting hot I never got to any auto trans issues; but on this day by late session 3 and then really clearly in 4 and 5 as it got hotter it just would not shift up. You can hear the issue really clearly at 12:55 and 16:20 on the vid. So the good news is, literally this week Ecutek finally released tuning for the jatco 7 speed. I'll have a chat to Racebox and see what they can do electrically to keep it cooler and to get the gears, if anything. That will likely take some R&D and can only really happen on track as it never gets even warm with road use. I've also picked up some eye wateringly expensive Redline D6 ATF to try, it had the highest viscosity I could find at 100o so we will see if that helps (just waiting for some oil pan gaskets so I can change it properly). If neither of those work I need to remove the coolant/trans interwarmer and the radiator cooler and go to an external cooler....somewhere.....(goodbye washer reservoir?), and if that fails give up on this mad idea and wait for Nissan to release the manual 400R
    • So, what else.... Power. I don't know what it is making because I haven't done a post tune dyno run yet; I will when I get a chance. It was 240rwkw dead stock. Conclusion from the day....it does not need a single kw more until I sort some other stuff. It comes on so hard that I could hear the twin N1 turbos on the R32 crying, and I just can't use what it has around a tight track with the current setup. Brakes. They are perfect. Hit them hard all day and they never felt like having an issue; you can see in the video we were making ground on much lighter cars on better tyres under brakes. They are standard (red sport) calipers, standard size discs in DBA5000 2 piece, Winmax pads and Motul RBF600 fluid, all from Matty at Racebrakes Sydney. Keeping in mind the car is more powerful than my R32 and weighs 1680, he clearly knows his shit. Suspension. This is one of the first areas I need to change. It has electronically controlled dampers from factory, but everything is just way too soft for track work even on the hardest setting (it is nice when hustling on country roads though). In particular it rolls into oversteer mid corner and pitches too much under hard braking so it becomes unstable eg in the turn 1 kink I need to brake early, turn through the kink then brake again so I don't pirouette like an AE86. I need to get some decent shocks with matched springs and sway bars ASAP, even if it is just a v1 setup until I work out a proper race/rally setup later. Tyres. I am running Yoko A052 in 235/45/18 all round, because that was what I could get in approximately the right height on wheels I had in the shed (Rays/Nismo 18x8 off the old Leaf actually!). As track tyres they are pretty poor; I note GTSBoy recently posted a porker comparo video including them where they were about the same as AD09.....that is nothing like a top line track tyre. I'll start getting that sorted but realistically I should get proper sized wheels first (likely 9.5 +38 front and 11 +55 at the rear, so a custom order, and I can't rotate them like the R32), then work out what the best tyre option is. BTW on that, Targa Tas had gone to road tyres instead of semi slicks now so that is a whole other world of choices to sort. Diff. This is the other thing that urgently needs to be addressed. It left massive 1s out of the fish hook all day, even when I was trying not too (you can also hear it reving on the video, and see the RPM rising too fast compared to speed in the data). It has an open diff that Infiniti optimistically called a B-LSD for "Brake Limited Slip Diff". It does good straight line standing start 11s but it is woeful on the track. Nismo seem to make a 2 way for it.
    • Also, I logged some data from the ECU for each session (mostly oil pressures and various temps, but also speed, revs etc, can't believe I forgot accelerator position). The Ecutek data loads nicely to datazap, I got good data from sessions 2, 3 and 4: https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-2?log=0&data=7 https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-3?log=0&data=6 https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-4?log=0&data=6 Each session is cut into 3 files but loaded together, you can change between them in the top left. As the test sessions are mostly about the car, not me, I basically start by checking the oil pressure (good, or at least consistent all day). These have an electrically controlled oil pump which targets 25psi(!) at low load and 50 at high. I'm running a much thicker oil than recommended by nissan (they said 0w20, I'm running 10w40) so its a little higher. The main thing is that it doesn't drop too far, eg in the long left hand fish hook, or under brakes so I know I'm not getting oil surge. Good start. Then Oil and Coolant temp, plus intercooler and intake temps, like this: Keeping in mind ambient was about 5o at session 2, I'd say the oil temp is good. The coolant temp as OK but a big worry for hot days (it was getting to 110 back in Feb when it was 35o) so I need to keep addressing that. The water to air intercooler is working totally backwards where we get 5o air in the intake, squish/warm it in the turbos (unknown temp) then run it through the intercoolers which are say 65o max in this case, then the result is 20o air into the engine......the day was too atypical to draw a conclusion on that I think, in the united states of freedom they do a lot of upsizing the intercooler and heat exchanger cores to get those temps down but they were OK this time. The other interesting (but not concerning) part for me was the turbo speed vs boost graph: I circled an example from the main straight. With the tune boost peaks at around 18psi but it deliberately drops to about 14psi at redline because the turbos are tiny - they choke at high revs and just create more heat than power if you run them hard all the way. But you can also see the turbo speed at the same time; it raises from about 180,000rpm to 210,000rpm which the boost falls....imagine the turbine speed if they held 18psi to redline. The wastegates are electrically controlled so there is a heap of logic about boost target, actual boost, delta etc etc but it all seems to work well
    • hahah when youtube subscribers are faster than my updates here. Yes some vid from the day is up, here:  Note that as with all track day videos it is boring watching after the bloopers at the start.  The off was a genuine surprise to me, I've literally done a thousand laps around the place and I've never had instability there; basically it rolled into oversteer, slipped, gripped and spat me out. On the way off I mowed down one of the instructor's cones and it sat there all day looking at me with accusing cone eyes as I drove past. 1:13:20 was my fastest lap, and it was in the second session, 3rd lap.  It (or me!) got slower throughout the day as it got hotter.      
×
×
  • Create New...