Jump to content
SAU Community

Inner West Crew Whoretown (toowong/st Lucia/kenmore/indooroopilly And Sometimes Sunnybank?)


Recommended Posts

my dad will buy this....hes obsessed with turning off that little LED on any appliance....even if it means loosing all settings etc.......:domokun:

Morning Mangs,

TFIT.

Northies are coming to visit tonight, so lets try not to park in the 15 minute car parks.

my dad will buy this....hes obsessed with turning off that little LED on any appliance....even if it means loosing all settings etc.......:domokun:

I just had to laugh at the marketing hype. It's an "ON/OFF" button - pretty sure monitors had them in the 90s.

German club is next week, not tonight :thumbsup:

ignition signal wouldn't be AFM I don't think, it could be coil packs yeah, or maybe a loom issue?

coil pack loom, have seen this exact issue in r34s a few times now.

I may be there this evening. Shall see how the energy reserves go. Have been getting 2-3 hours of sleep a night this week due to teething, so may well be napping.

LOL @ Samsung:

samsung.jpg

AN ON/OFF SWITCH!! AN AMAZING 0 WATTS!! WOW

Though that made me curious as to what a monitor actually draws.

This is an old dell 19" LCD under normal operation:

monitorONstatus.gif

~36W

Press the power button on the front (same thing that is on every monitor these days) and it goes to this

monitorOFFstatus.gif

0W

That could still be an immeasurably low current. But it's as good as ZERO.

Hard off makes no difference, unless your a douchebag ecomentalist.

Not sure what the issue was :) Chris is sorting it out and will no doubt let me know.

All I know is that there was a 2V power draw when the car was turned off. When we pulled the fuse for the GPS/Stero/LCD screen the draw disappeared. Power drain was killing my battery.

You need better equipment Dave (that's what she said)

Yeah but I CBF setting it up.

I just happened to have a Class 0.2 meter on the bench this morning, exactely the same meter that power stations use, things just dont get any more accurate. Only way to make that more accurate would be to use a really small CT and wrap the wire through multiple times.

I'd be interested to see how much a tv uses on standby...

varies wildly. Our Panasonic Plasma is meant to use .4 watts, it was actually using 22 and around 250 on average when going. A friends Samsung LED was using 178 watts and averaging around 220 when running! Needless to say it get turned off at the wall now.

We recently unplugged our bar fridge, changed some light bulbs, started turning the TV and computer and surround sound ect off at the wall and set the hot water system a bit lower and our power bill went down from around $600 per quarter to about $250. Anything with a transformer will be leaking power so switch those suckers off at the wall and save money!


thanks again for the hospitalities last night guys :thumbsup:, was a nice drive back too. heading out past the towong cemetary and up No. 5 beats the hell out of driving up the main road and down the ICB, milton road etc.

and wholy crap 600 dollar power bill?? geebus that sounds a bit painful. and a good effort to knock it down to 250's

Hey guys

How was ice-cream :D ?

Thinking about taking my car back to the mechanic to check out this sound which wasn't there before 100km service, and now it is. But before I do, thought I'd make sure I'm not just being a picky bastard and see if you guys think this is acceptable/normal.

http://mezmamedia.co...kyline_sound_1/

Edit: need to wait a good 10 or 15 seconds around there.

Edited by wilorichie

Morning Mangs,

TFIF.

thanks again for the hospitalities last night guys :thumbsup:,

Welcome! Thanks for coming.

was a nice drive back too. heading out past the towong cemetary and up No. 5 beats the hell out of driving up the main road and down the ICB, milton road etc.

Yeah thats the way I go.

Hey guys

How was ice-cream :D ?

Ikes Cream was good!

Will listen to your noise at home, if I remember :P

Hey guys

How was ice-cream :D ?

Thinking about taking my car back to the mechanic to check out this sound which wasn't there before 100km service, and now it is. But before I do, thought I'd make sure I'm not just being a picky bastard and see if you guys think this is acceptable/normal.

http://mezmamedia.co...kyline_sound_1/

Edit: need to wait a good 10 or 15 seconds around there.

Sounds like it has something to do with timing belt/pulley area. mine has a sound like rubbing under 2000tpm from cam cover but it isnt rubbing. been there for 18months lol

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • The attached document is fine. I just downloaded & opened it.
    • Hello, sorry for being late to join the discussion, but my clock just died on me.   Ive tried to look at Michaels digital clock repair.docx and it doesnt work maybe the file has expired.   Please let me know if you can re upload it or take some youtube videos to show us how to get the clock installed? thanks
    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
×
×
  • Create New...