Jump to content
SAU Community

Inner West Crew Whoretown (toowong/st Lucia/kenmore/indooroopilly And Sometimes Sunnybank?)


Recommended Posts

arhhh yes, i now see your point... very true...

although im not sure about the Lexus, when you pop the hood all i see is a massive plastic cover...

so who knows whats going on under there, probably a big Japanese mouse on a wheel...?

rofl @ mouse on a wheel

Actually, the plan is more along the lines of:

Buy bug with decent motor and buy a second motor.

Rebuild second motor and supercharge it.

Swap engines.

???

Profit.

rebuild second motor and supercharge it

one qld summer

air cooled engine shits itself

fail

buys rotor

apex seals out.

rebuild second motor and supercharge it

one qld summer

air cooled engine shits itself

fail

buys rotor

apex seals out.

\

The supercharged engines run a fancy cooling fan and oil cooler :thumbsup:

I have given thought to a rotor bug though to be honest. Don't know if I really want to go that overboard though.

notgoodenough

That's what she said

Shouldn NOT have played yesterday, so sick right now >_< lol

I'm feelin' good. Just epic tired.

apex seals out.

Love your work Noel

I have given thought to a rotor bug though to be honest. Don't know if I really want to go that overboard though.

Do it, you skirt.

GL to you john but all my years of not owning an aircooled engine built for northern european climate only convinced me I did the right thing by avoiding them.

I dont think I ever saw one that wasnt either just rebuilt or needed rebuilding.

yeah, i thought it might be a bit borderline on length but given the start and end points I couldn't come up with a shorter route.

I should definitely be there this thursday :thumbsup:

GL to you john but all my years of not owning an aircooled engine built for northern european climate only convinced me I did the right thing by avoiding them.

I dont think I ever saw one that wasnt either just rebuilt or needed rebuilding.

You might be surprised how robust they actually are. My other two were always at a happy temp even on 32 degree days stuck in standstill traffic on the western freeway for hours on end. Some of the US models even had AC fitted to them and managed to plod along just fine.

The only real problem I've ever found with them (overheating wise) is if you use aftermarket seals. Then they leak oil, and then get too hot because they don't have enough oil to keep them cool.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
    • EMU Classic. For what I need it to do I see no reason to upgrade. Link and Haltech would both cost an extra chunk of money for a lot of unutilized features
×
×
  • Create New...