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Inner West Crew Whoretown (toowong/st Lucia/kenmore/indooroopilly And Sometimes Sunnybank?)


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f**kedy f**k f**k!

I may have just killed my baby... Involved in a minor fender bender, tried driving away after exchanging details only to realise that I was losing fuel and the engine was being totally unresponsive. Pulled over to have a look under the bonnet and the front reo is bent with no space between the radiator and engine and the engine seems to be sitting at a funny angle in the bay.

To make things better it turns out that Just Car don't have a 24 hour claims service... Car is parked and locked and I have to organise a tow and a claim first thing in the morning.

Spoke to insurance company today, they are organising a tow from where the car ended up and all the rest. However with damage to three panels and the reo as well as whatever mechanical damage has occurred I have been told to expect it to be a write off sad.gif

Time to start shopping around I guess. Thankfully I just bumped my agreed value smile.gif I'll probably get $18k in hand after everything is settled so that would give me plenty of options. Thinking maybe I buy a dirt cheap camry/magna/lancer etc for a couple of grand and start looking for an S13 smile.gif

Started the car up to get her on the towie. Engine was not a happy camper. Belts squealing like a bitch from them rubbing on the fan shroud that has been jammed up into them. Idle was all over the shop, almost stalled (in a freaking auto) at one point and was surging to over 2.5k at other points. She is not a well car :(

what time and day to meet at kenmore maccas

Thursday night, 7:30 usually. Keep an eye on this thread. Meeting gets changed occasionally for various reasons.

Started the car up to get her on the towie. Engine was not a happy camper. Belts squealing like a bitch from them rubbing on the fan shroud that has been jammed up into them. Idle was all over the shop, almost stalled (in a freaking auto) at one point and was surging to over 2.5k at other points. She is not a well car :(

that blows man :down:

if you can get to yamanto tomorrow you can co-pilot with me...seeing as all my lame friends are watching super cars or dont wanna be in a car that long

its on 31 club so you can't access it without 10 posts

Make/Model: NISSAN F31 LEOPARD

Year: 1989

Kilometers: 147,xxxk's

Transmission type: AUTO

Engine: VG30DET

Colour: BLACK & SILVER 2 TONE

Modifications: NISMO FRONT STRUT BRACE, R31HOUSE ADJUSTABLE CASTER RODS, WHITELINE ADJUSTABLE FRONT SWAY BAR, 18X9 18X10 WORK EUROLINES, 3" CAT BACK EXHAUST, RECARO BUCKET SEATS & 2 SETS OF PERSONILISED NUMBER PLATES "13PRD" & "MYF31"

Roadworthy Certificate: NO

Registered: NO

Accident History: NONE THAT I KNOW OF

Asking Price: $5000

Location: REDBANK PLAINS

Contact Details: PM HERE

Other Comments: IS AN AWSOME CAR THAT GETS HEAPS OF ATTENTION EVERYWHERE IT GOES, EVEN FROM NONE CAR PEOPLE. HOW EVER IT DOES NEED SOME SWEET LOVIN', GEAR BOX HAS A LEAK & COULD DO WITH A SERVICE, ENGINE WISE IT COULD DO WITH A SERVICE & TUNE, A/C HAS NEVER WORKED FROM WHEN I GOT IT & I NEVER BOTHERED TO FIX IT. I HAVE A VG 5 SPEED GEARBOX & CAN POSSIBLY HELP GETTING SOME OF THE PARTS NEEDED FOR A MANUAL CONVERSION. ALSO HAVE A SPARE PAIR OF HEADLIGHTS.

I WILL BE KEEPING THE HEAD UNIT FROM THE CAR BUT SHOULD HAVE ANOTHER TO FIT IN IT.

*PICS*

WILL BE VERY SAD TO SEE THIS GO!!

CARL

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  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
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