Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Have had this problem since I got the car and it was stock as a rock and its still the same after all these mod's !!! The engine misses with any more than 12psi boost. This week all the following gear went in-

t3/t4, FMIC,PFC,Adj Fuel Reg,Big Fuel pump,z32 afm,new plugs(copper-correct gap) and we tested every coil pack with a known good item. STILL MISSING. It runs like a dream until we go over 12psi. I have been told it could be the crank angle sensor(dry solder joints??) but we ran out of dyno time and crank angle sensors. I hope I have given enough details for some of the SA GURU's to offer some idea's.

Cheers

Stevo

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/26146-one-for-the-gurus/
Share on other sites

SK - AHA!! I HOPED YOU WOULD DROP IN, IT'S GOT 7'S WITH .8MM GAP. PREVIOUS TO THESE COPPERS WE TRIED IRIDIUMS ETC AT MANY GAPS AND HEAT RANGES WITH NO LUCK.

JTECH- ITS GOT A POWER FC SO NO BOOST/FUEL CUT ISSUES

I KNOW THIS SYMPTOM HAS BEEN COVERED TO DEATH BUT I THINK MY PARTICULAR PROB COULD BE AN ODD ONE.......MMMMMMMM

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/26146-one-for-the-gurus/#findComment-554211
Share on other sites

i have exactly the same problem over 12psi!!!!!!!! its very annoying so i just wind the boost down for now! and ive also done the whole experimenting with plugs, but nothing helped.

i have found that it happens alot more before full operating temp.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/26146-one-for-the-gurus/#findComment-554638
Share on other sites

Have you actually set a boost cut level. Mine is set at 1.46bar If i just touch up to it in 1st or 2nd i get a misfire if i hit it hard under full load in 4th i get complete ignition cut until the revs are back down to zero then ig comes back on and i can restart.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/26146-one-for-the-gurus/#findComment-554647
Share on other sites

Just a stab in the dark, but a mate had the same thing.

He regapped his plugs from 0.8 to 0.74 and it worked a treat - miss fire totally gone..

It's hard to believe that 0.06 mm made that much of a difference, but in his case it made the world of difference !!

Good luck.

J

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/26146-one-for-the-gurus/#findComment-554660
Share on other sites

Stevo is it a series 1, 1.5 or 2? if its a series 1 have you tried another igniter module? Seems like you've replaced all the normal problem parts. This sounds electrical and it"s boost related so try another MAP sensor. Hope your'e monitoring vitals on the dyno like fuel pressure, new parts can be faulty and you need to know that all your bases are covered. Hope this helps Good luck.. :(

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/26146-one-for-the-gurus/#findComment-555946
Share on other sites

Common Stevo, do the leak down test, it will rule out internal problems. Then you can confidently say its external and swap bits over. We find the best way is to get another car same model and swap them, one by one.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/26146-one-for-the-gurus/#findComment-555975
Share on other sites

Originally posted by DAMQIK GTS-T

Well I wasn't losing power that I new of but on the dyno @ 6000rpm and @ 14psi the hose sucked closed  the mixtures went really lean, (map senced ecu) those rubber hoses to the turbo are ONLY good for stock boost.

I'm not saying it's the problem but at least check it.

Lucky your car was on the dyno when it happened, you dont get too many chances with lean mixtures at load.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/26146-one-for-the-gurus/#findComment-556180
Share on other sites

Thanks boys! Leakdown down test next, then igniter module(its a series one). It has a new fuel filter and monitired fuel pressure on dyno OK. No rubber hose left on turbo inlet to crush. Probably look at the injectors next. Hey SK, when you used this fuel setup as an alternative to getting bigger injectors, could you get a nice smoooth idle? Some times (only first tune) it can be OK then it gets a bit grumpy/rough. Dripping/dirty injectors?.........will keep you updated guys.

Thanks for the input,

Stevo

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/26146-one-for-the-gurus/#findComment-557096
Share on other sites

Thanks boys! Leakdown down test next, then igniter module(its a series one). It has a new fuel filter and monitired fuel pressure on dyno OK. No rubber hose left on turbo inlet to crush. Probably look at the injectors next. Hey SK, when you used this fuel setup as an alternative to getting bigger injectors, could you get a nice smoooth idle? Some times (only first tune) it can be OK then it gets a bit grumpy/rough. Dripping/dirty injectors?.........will keep you updated guys.

Thanks for the input,

Stevo

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/26146-one-for-the-gurus/#findComment-557113
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I read this and thought "ah! I will do this scissor jack on the tow point thing!" I just use my floor/low profile/costco jack and lift the car up by the tow hook itself, then slide jack stands under. Never thought about using scissor into floor jack combo :p
    • Well, my new WMI system took much longer to finalize. I actually missed my dyno appointment last Friday and lost my 150$ deposit. I'll be going back in the next week or two.  To sum it up. I only kept the AEM tank from my old setup. I replaced the AEM pump with a higher flow/pressure ProMeth 30GPH pump. I also swapped over to a 6AN low pressure feed line to the pump from the tank. There's also a pressure switch you cannot see on the pump high pressure line.    This is feeding 6x 200CC direct port nozzles and 1x 500CC Pre Throttle body nozzle. All fittings are Swagelok, because well why not. I also have a 300PSI pressure sensor up front.    I now have my Haltech ECU controlling everything. I start my pump with a basic relay at 5PSI and deadhead it. I then PWM a 3000CC methanol Injector to control flow starting around 10psi. The pressure switch in the trunk, along with my tank level are safeties before I ever get to 10PSI, and then I use my pressure sensor upfront as a secondary safety to cut the WMI and corrections in case the injector blocks or a line ruptures.  Wish me luck on the dyno!    
    • So, I'm back with bad news. There's no jack long enough on this planet that will reach the front subframe. If by some chance there is, it would weigh 200lb's.  I purchased a long reach jack... The damn thing weighted 120lb's and was massive. Didn't even come close, was still short at least a foot. It was a pain, but I brought it back. Next I decided HA! No problem, I'll get an Extra long reach jack. Well, I couldn't lift the box... It must have weighed 160LB's and luckily there was an open box in store. I took measurement and was still nowhere close.  Sadly I've lost hope and have accepted defeat. 
    • Thanks for that tip, niZmO_Man. I think the battery is OK. It's quite a new one, but I'll check. Last time I needed a new battery, everything electronic was fine, except that there wasn't enough current to turn over the starter. I decided to order one of the partial AV system translation CDs from Car Audio Workshop in NZ. That might have some effect, or help me diagnose the date problem. 🤞
    • I suppose it was relatively stock too, the JZ motor handle most mods thrown at them without even breaking a sweat 
×
×
  • Create New...