Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm new to the street performance scene as i've only owned 2 nissan pulsars (89,91 models). I recently baught a 32 GTR with a 33 GTR Vspec II engine. I love it to bits.

When i purchased my baby the dude told me to service it, as it has been a while. I said I will service it as soon as it was under my name. (Turned out to be a stupid idea).

After a week of him fudging me around about the roadworthy, I started hearing a clicking sound as i accelerated. Called a freind immediately and he told me it might be a piston. So i drove it to

work, planning to get it checked out the next morning. I took it to Rajab Racing and the gentleman told me that my engine was gone, turned out that my baby had no oil in

the engine. He continued to tell me that because it was dry, a piston had crushed a bolt (me not quite understanding), and that the piston was hitting against the housing.

I'm crushed, i've been told it will cost me a fair bit for a full reconditioning. I have also been told that it may not be as bad as he is making it out to be.

What info i'm after is how bad these cases can get, I have driven the car about 1 hour after the sound (on the road), it is now sitting in my garage. Is one piston repairable or the nut whatever

the case may be. Also what the roadworthy covers, because i beleive he has gotten a dodgy one. (The battery isnt fastened down, the ricaro bucket seat needs welding on the drivers side, and a

few other little bits and peices)

I KNOW I'M AN IDIOT FOR NOT GETTING IT SERVICED IMMEDIATELY, either way, any information would be greatly appreciated.

Can my baby be saved?

no oil? the dude needs to be shot for not having any oil in it in the first place.
Kyriakos needs a swift boot up the rear for ignoring:

no oil pressure showing on the gauge.

"Oh Shit" oil pressure warning light shining brightly.

If he bought the car privately, fair trading laws don't apply. And it would be difficult to prove that the seller was at fault, anyway.

I feel for you mate, your situation really does suck!

Fair trading laws would apply, but court procedures take a long time and it would be difficult to prove the seller was in the wrong, and even if you won there is no guarantee that you would get the money straight away.

more than likely you would receive small installments over a long period of time.

i am no expert but i am studying law so i've got some sort of idea.

i've spun a bearing in my 32 GTR and am getting a rebuild done in a months time. and the build will take around 5 weeks so i am without a car for over 2 months. it sucks but you just gotta make the best of a bad situation.

Brezza

Ok a few things don't make sense for me, please clarify.

After you purchased the car, how much driving did you do?

For a car to have no engine oil, it would nearly immediately start failing after you started it. You would hear some awful noises, other than just "clicking". I am amazed you could even drive it down the road.

For the previous owner to not have any oil in it is highly unlikely. So was it just a bit low on oil?

If it in fact had no oil in it, how did you not have an engine oil light come on, or the fact the oil pressure gauge would have sat on zero?

In other word's what im trying to say is there in no way in hell that the engine had no oil in it, it would fail almost instantly, let alone drive around with just a clicking noise. Also, the entire engine would be f**ked: Bearings, cams, turbos, rings etc. Not just "a piston".

Have you taken the sump plug off to see what is actually in it?

Edited by PM-R33

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, yes, every CU on the bus is available via the Consult port, but whether the scanner you are using is capable of talking to the TCU, the ABS/TCS modules, etc etc, is what is at question here. Many of them are only for engine codes. So, if you have one of those, you won't know if the ABS is having a bitch.
    • That's now. R chassis Skylines come from a time when the tolerance in the ADRs was a bit more....slack. My car, on 235/35-17, which is damn near the exact same size as the original 205/55-16, is pretty much bang on correct indicated speed across the whole legal range. That's demonstrated with constant speed run over 5km, and GPS speed. It's just the luck of the draw. My particular speedo head has to be the thing that is "calibrated" that way, because everything else (the diff ratio, the gearbox and the speedo drive**) are all same same as most other Skylines. **OK, so the speedo drive is a Navara unit to drive the R32's cable, not the electronic unit than an R33/4 would normally have with teh same gear on it. Otherwise, I applaud your OCD tendencies, and I would do the same if I needed to.
    • Not too sure, I believe the Nissan consult port does everything? Also just filled up the reservoir to full and the light is still on. The float seems to move up and down fine.
    • The speedo's can be very conservative, when my Mazda NC MX5 speedo is showing 118kph, the GPS, and a calibrated radar.... cop mate.....hits me at around 110kph +/- 1 or 2 kph, and that is on a 215/45 17, stock tyres size is 205/45 17 as well, so weirdly conservative with stock tyre size When my Commodore speedo red 116kph GPS had me at 110kph on 255/40 17, so again conservative Google says manufacturers need to set the speedo from 4 to 10% slower than actual road speed.....for safety.....and compliance  After doing some offset and clearance measurements to see what can fit the NC on 17x8 +40, without guard rolling or rubbing anything at my current ride height, I've decided that when my tyres are toast, I'm going to fit 225/45 17 and see where that gets me IRT actual speed of my speedo and GPS/radar From the online calculator I should be still be doing around 5kph under an actual 110kph when the speedo is showing 110kph My ADHD requires that when I'm doing 110kph on the speedo, that the actual road speed is actually really close to that, and not alot slower And going from 205 to 225 still keeps the car within the %/mm allowable in the NSW vehicle rules and regulations, which is nice, as long as I'm looking at the latest version that is.....LOL https://www.nsw.gov.au/sites/default/files/2021-02/RMS-13.464-Light-vehicle-modifications-Vehicle-Standards-Information-No-6-November-2013.pdf
    • Take the value it measured as, and pick the closest range available that is above the reading on the screen.   Also, no point just testing the coils. Read what has been said again. You need to test all your wiring, everything.
×
×
  • Create New...