Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i have an r32 with a pretty freshly built motor

only done 10,000 kms making decent power

i just had my gear box changed to the r33 box recently.

as i just got the car back it hasnt been running perfect since.

i must admit ive been thrashing it lately to try out the new box

but anyway it is missfiring at idle and low revs. also has a bit of blow bye??? but engine is new???

i looked into it a bit more to see what was wrong and i had notice lately that my oil gauge in my dash

was only reading 2kg/cm its usualy around the 4kg mark or more

so i checked oil and there is none???? how much does a car use up??

do you need to drain oil when a new gear box is installed? maybe mechanic forgot to put some back in??

i dont get it car was serviced 5000km ago... if there is no oil could that cause exessive blow bye???

and the missfire??

my car doesnt blow smoke or anything and i cant see any oil leaks apart from one where a hose is just loosely fitted

im so bloody worried now that ive caused damage to my engine...

please help

No engine oil at all ?Hmmmmm... or only a little bit left ? I would be getting a compression/Leakdown test performed ASAP. Top up the oil before you even attempt to start it. Sometimes cars with Forged pistons use a " little " amount of oil but not like the amount you are describing. Get the Compression test done .That will give you more info

Not good. I would be very closely monitoring that dipstick. Check it at least once a week until you get the car to the mechanics. last thing you want is to starve the engine of oil, Spin a bearing and bang totally lunch your engine

New engine. You will get some oil comsumption in the first few thousand k's, due to rings bedding in etc, then they usually settle down.

Just gotta keep tabs on the oil level.

A 10w 40 oil should be okay to use or whatever the engine rebuilder suggests.

Gook luck with it.

my recommendations

1) see a mechanic before playing

2) see a mechanic before playing

3) see the mechanic who did the engine build before playing

lastly check the oil level, any std 10w40 or 5w40 should be fine, the first digit identifies how long before the oil rushes to the head when you turn the key

so 5 or 10 is ok - wont be a massive difference. when the engine is warm at idle, oil pressure should be 2kg/cm2 on the standard pressure gauge

if you had no oil pressure guage would show 0 and engine would cease up guaranteed

idiot light would also be on so its unlikely there is NO oil in the engine, but low is possible (again less oil, means more pressure, which would show on the guage)

ie - you shouldnt have 5kgcm2 oil pressure at idle, and you shouldnt have 1kgcm2 at idle either (this is when engine warm)

there was like no oil on the bottom of the dipstick once i cleaned it and put it back in for a few seconds and pulled it out again

and the engine was warm

it possibly sounds like another engine with the rings put on upside down as a 5000klm old engine should not still be using oil at that rate for the next 5000klm.

how often did you check the oil level?.

Edited by DiRTgarage

went to see the mechanic today he reckons it is fine and im streesing for nothing

i checked the oil often in the first 5000kms like every second day

it seemed fine not much oil consumption as far as i know

i had it serviced and ive done about 4500kms i thought there would be no way the oil would be low its only done 4500kms

i only checked it because the oil gauge was down to 2kg/cm2 its usually 4kg/cm2 when driving under load

so because of the missfire i had that was only at idle i started to look at it more

checked plugs to see if everything was connected ok and i took off the breather pipe

to my catch can and under bright light i can see the air particles coming out IS THIS NORMALl???

the catch can fills up with sorta like water not exactly oil.

mechanic said thats just condensation at startup when cold

told me its normal also

the filter also on the catch can soaks up with oil and if you touch it you can see its definately oil

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi Guys, Does anyone know any aftermarket part numbers for a starter motor to suit the VQ25DET? I can find lots of alternative part number for the VQ35DE, which I assume would fit, but there is a lot of conflicting information out there. Thanks..
    • I don't understand how this hasn't boiled down to - Upgrade the turbo when you have everything required. ECU, injectors, fuel pump, turbo, etc. Do it all at once.  If you don't have everything required, just enjoy the car as it is and keep saving up your pennies. 
    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
×
×
  • Create New...