Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Exactly what tyre are you looking at?

If its a true semi slick expect to get maybe a couple thousand km out of them.

Heat cycles do affect as well so the tyre might actually be useless long before the tread depth is low.

There is alot of nonsense around about semi slicks. From my experience I have formed the following opinions:

Yes they are street legal. Good luck convincing the policeman who just pulled you over of that fact, however.

They go not have a great deal of tread depth - added to which most cars will rapidly degrade the outside of the fronts - so what tread depth you have will not be legal for long.

You can happily drive them on the road. I drive from Bunno to Wanneroo & back.

R comps (proper ones, not Federals or Falkens) need heat to develop all of their available grip. None the less even when cold they will outperform most road tyres in the dry.

They last a reasonable amount of time on the road. Certainly if you are running your car on the road & periodically on the track most of the tyre wear will occur on the track. On the upside however R comps last much longer than road tyres when driven on a track (unless you are a numpty on the track). Old R comps are just a waste of everyones time.

You will not heat cyle tyres on the road - not unless you are being stupid.

The down side of running R comps on the road are:

They are noisy as hell.

The tramline like a bitch.

Their stiff sidewalls make the car uncomfortable over bumps etc.

They pick up every little rock/stone/anything and fire it into your paintwork.

You have to keep adjusting the pressures from track to road & back again.

I am less than convinced they will be helpfull if there are puddles on the road.

Do not put R comps on one end of your car & roadies on the other. That is just a recipe for having an accident.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...