Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

For sale: TA45 with TO4 exh housing. (1.32)

Item Condition: Rebuilt by GCG Melb, looks unused with new wheels.

Price and price conditions: $1800ono

Extra Info: TA45 front with 76mm inducer. TO4 1.32 exh with O trim TA exh wheel. Twin scroll exh housing. Compressor outlet flange needs a v-clamp. Turbo came off a 12at rx7 with best time of 9.7sec. Plain bearing turbo. This combo is better suited to a 3ltr for daily driving, but will work wonders on a 2.5/2.6ltr drag monster!

Pictures:

dogsnturbo4troy182.jpg

dogsnturbo4troy183.jpg

dogsnturbo4troy184.jpg

dogsnturbo4troy185.jpg

dogsnturbo4troy190.jpg

Contact Details: PM

Location: North side

Delivery & Conditions of Delivery: prefer pickup. COD ok, or other method by arrangement.

For sale: S6 motor and gearbox

Item Condition: Out of import front cut with 63000kms, not tested.

Price and price conditions: $2500 for motor, $500 for box, ono

Extra Info: Engine only, no turbo's or ecu. Comes with all stock inlet manifold and accessories, inj, clutch, etc. tps case is slightly damaged. Great for a rotang conversion in an R30 or something...

Pictures: Working on it.

Contact Details: PM

Location: Hills

Delivery & Conditions of Delivery: Prefer pick up, can arrange drop off.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/262412-fs-ta45to4-s6-13bt-motor-box/
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Working through possible solutions of converting my mechanical speedo.    Anyone know what type of speedo sensor the factory r34 gtr getrag has ? what the output is ? I assume its not a VSS and more a voltage like earlier speedo sensors ? Can an ECU read it ?  
    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
×
×
  • Create New...