Jump to content
SAU Community

Weight Reduction

huddy

By huddy,
in Motorsport Discussion & Builds

 Share

Recommended Posts

huddy Veteran

huddy

Posted
Posted

Hey guys,

i'm in the process of trying to reduce weight from the body of my cefiro before it goes off to get the weld in cage

Things i'm looking at doing/done so far are:

remove carpet/deadener matting

remove sunroof

cut parts of inner door out

removed heater core

all the interior will consist of is 2 x velo seats, cams roll cage, dash (emptied and pretty much just a dash cluster fitted), fire extinguisher. small switch panel.

exterior wise already consists of c/f bonnet / boot. fibreglass guards. rear window is perspec from factory. I'm going o keep the glass windows/motors in for now.

I'm seeking advice where to reduce more weight,

- I'm going rid all the unused wires from the wiring loom (are there any examples / DIY's?)

- Also i've seen/heard of using a holesaw to cut holes to reduce metal... i'm after better examples of this/opinions what/where to use.

Any help would be great

cheers

-Matt

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/262696-weight-reduction/
Share on other sites
BezerkR32 Veteran

BezerkR32

Posted
Posted

remove cast iron six and fit alloy v8 lol. no sounds like you have most of the bases covered.

could look into rim weights, sometimes can find 1.5kg per rim, depending on what you start with.

there is a couple of kilos saving in molly cage.

Hey guys,

i'm in the process of trying to reduce weight from the body of my cefiro before it goes off to get the weld in cage

Things i'm looking at doing/done so far are:

remove carpet/deadener matting

remove sunroof

cut parts of inner door out

removed heater core

all the interior will consist of is 2 x velo seats, cams roll cage, dash (emptied and pretty much just a dash cluster fitted), fire extinguisher. small switch panel.

exterior wise already consists of c/f bonnet / boot. fibreglass guards. rear window is perspec from factory. I'm going o keep the glass windows/motors in for now.

I'm seeking advice where to reduce more weight,

- I'm going rid all the unused wires from the wiring loom (are there any examples / DIY's?)

- Also i've seen/heard of using a holesaw to cut holes to reduce metal... i'm after better examples of this/opinions what/where to use.

Any help would be great

cheers

-Matt

djr81 Grand Master

djr81

Posted
Posted (edited)

You should think about reducing/relocating weight in the following order:

Reduce unsprung weight, ie wheels/tyres/brakes etc.

Reduce weight in anything that rotates eg flywheels, pulleys, cam gears.

Reduce sprung weight eg most of your list by either getting rid of gear or replacing it with lighter equivalents.

Relocate weight (Lower, more centred, more towards the rear).

You need to do all the annoying/bullshit things to if you are serious. Like redundant brackets, wiring looms etc etc.

I would avoid drilling holes & removing structural metal unless you really know what you are doing.

Also there is a bundle of weight to be saved in the exhaust, engine bay (brackets, breathers, blank plates, emission control gear etc etc etc), cabin (wiring, HVAC)...

But the best advice I ever got went as follows:

Go on a diet you fat fk.

The advantage of being lighter/fitter is less stress/fatigue in the car & hence better concentration.

Edited by djr81
Boss-zilla Mentor

Boss-zilla

Posted
Posted

As stated you're doing pretting good so far. My 32 went on the diet last year removing all that was not used, still have not had a chance to weigh it.

There is alot to save in removing/replacing wiring which i was taliking to Dane (phunkymonkey) in this section last year. I removed all the unused wire in my car. From memory the looms (cabin, boot and engine bay but not the engine one yet) went from around 13-14kg to 7 or 8kg total. More can be saved by re-runing it completely with a better quality of wire. Also the looms have extra wire in them such as earths that are from the boot that attach near the fire wall and there is alot of extra length that can be cut out and re-joined. I was planning on making replacement looms this year for all makes, and custom ones out of special light weight wire but has been put on hold due to the current climent.

Ross

huddy Veteran

huddy

Posted
  • Author
Posted

thanks guys, i may hold off on using a hole saw then lol.

Like someone said i'll be cutting off the loose brackets etc that are designed for everyday usage (eg brackets for rear seats etc).

I'm using Work Meisters 18x9,10's on the car. and have 4 piston calipers front.

I am building a 26/30 for it atm, so a lot of those items will be lighter and balanced to suit.

I think my main concern is 'chopping' the loom up... as i dont wont to stuff it up. Do you simply untape the loom, and trace back the wires not needed back to the ecu plug - so any guidance on this would be awesome!!!!

realistically (like most) i'm planning on working with what i have, which is probably already a heavier car than most and try and lighten it as much as possible retaining most of my re-usable parts at a minimum cost.

so please continue with the help, i appreciate it!

Oh an BTW i weigh f*ckall :P so cant help in that department lol

Boss-zilla Mentor

Boss-zilla

Posted
Posted

Are you located in Vic if so i can help with the looms.

Its not that hard just work out which plugs you need, remove the others including wire. Most car companys only use one or two looms for all their cars. I have a manual 32 gtst however the looms will suit a gts/gtr,auto,abs and all other options so there is heaps that can go.

I also removed the air con and heater so out went all the wireing and controlls for that. Once i can ill start the replacement looms i was talking about it will make it easy as you can just order it then plug it in.

Ross

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...