Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i dont think there is anyway to access the inside of the headlight (assuming your talking about an r33) apart from the headlight holders, i suggest you take the lense off and give them a clean, then you have to get them sealed again.

i dont think there is anyway to access the inside of the headlight (assuming your talking about an r33) apart from the headlight holders, i suggest you take the lense off and give them a clean, then you have to get them sealed again.

It's a pair of hella driving lights so they're semi sealed and won't come apart.

ie. the only access is through the bulb socket.

hmm could be wrong here, but if your talking bout the yellow ting that skylines get. Cut and polish gets rid of it. I had it on mine when i got it, not nemore tho :down:

hmm could be wrong here, but if your talking bout the yellow ting that skylines get. Cut and polish gets rid of it. I had it on mine when i got it, not nemore tho ;)

They have a glass lens not plastic.

It looks like a white smoke film inside the glass.

I've seen driving lights fill with white smoke when the bulb is cracked but the bulbs are still working so maybe it's just moisture.

I thought of rinsing them out with metho but I'm not sure it won't damage them.

Methylated spirits won't affect glass, but it can leave a residual film if it doesn't dissolve foreign matter.

It will dissolve residual water though, so you're on the right track.

Resourcefulness > 3 steps...

i) Use Metho and if it doesn't complete the job...

ii) Ask the chemist for Acetone straight (which is used in labs to clean microsope slides & it's stage) but don't use nail polish remover that often has a small %age of oil in it and if that doesn't complete the job...

iii) a Chopstick with microfibre taped to the end

If it's the outside, see post above via HPI

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...