Jump to content
SAU Community

96' R33 Rb25det

syfon

By syfon,
in Western Australia

 Share

Recommended Posts

Dani Boi Grand Master

Dani Boi

Posted
Posted
Hi guys, i'm just curious what is the best oil to use in my RB25. It currently has 126,000 KM's. I changed the oil around 2,000KM's ago and used a Nulon 15w-50.

What do you guys use? I mean, thicker, thinner, etc?

Cheers!

I got a 96 R33, use 0w30 mobil synthetic. There are heaps of threads regarding what oil to use

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/263318-96-r33-rb25det/#findComment-4506766
Share on other sites
autoworx Rising Star

autoworx

Posted
Posted

personally I would use a slightly heavier oil than the 0 stuff in a 13 year old 100,000km+ rb

also I dont know what nissan australia recommend for the vq35 on their aus delivered 350z but the jap/usa v35s use a super light weight low friction oil and weve seen some slight issues with a heavier oil in them here

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/263318-96-r33-rb25det/#findComment-4508994
Share on other sites
syfon Veteran

syfon

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I just checked the oil during my lunch break, was barely any in the sump :s yet the dash oil-light wasn't on and the engine sounded normal o.O

Anywho, just brought 2 litres of that nulon till i completely change it on saturday.....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/263318-96-r33-rb25det/#findComment-4509435
Share on other sites
br3ndan Mentor

br3ndan

Posted
Posted
I just checked the oil during my lunch break, was barely any in the sump :s yet the dash oil-light wasn't on and the engine sounded normal o.O

Anywho, just brought 2 litres of that nulon till i completely change it on saturday.....

was the engine hot?

Usually to get accurate oil readings you have to drive it around till it hits operating temp. Stop the car and let it rest for about 5 mins (to let the oil drop down) and then check the oil.

Pull the stick out, wipe it and put it back in. When you take it out again, that's how much oil is left in the sump.

If you did that, ignore the above haha. :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/263318-96-r33-rb25det/#findComment-4509744
Share on other sites
R33_NICK Community Regular

R33_NICK

Posted
Posted (edited)

i used to run Castrol EDGE 10W-60, valvoline 15w-40 and nulon 10w-40 but then i finally decide to settle with Motul 300V 10w-40 (gotta admit its expensive), all synthetic, nothing less.

how much oil did u put in? RB25s carry 4.7L including oil filter. i used to run 10W-60(pretty thick stuff) and 15W-40 and had no oil consumption, though it takes awhile 2 warm up

Edited by R33_NICK
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/263318-96-r33-rb25det/#findComment-4509977
Share on other sites
br3ndan Mentor

br3ndan

Posted
Posted (edited)

lol

i have a feeling this debate on what brand of oil to use can go on forever... Basially tho theres a few things you need to look at

1. 100% fully synthetic... Like Mobil 1 or most other high end brands like redline.

2. Cold weight... should be max of 15... lowest of 0. This weight doesnt matter as much, as this is only when its cold... when it heats up it will get thicker. Thinner oil is better for cold start up anyway as it takes less time to move around and coat all ur engine parts. Its not like you are going to be thrashing the car while its cold. Easy driving only!

3. Hot weight... should be around 30-50... i wouldnt go anything above 50 as its a bit thick for street use.

Other then that theres not much else to think about.

So why do i use mobil 0-40? (apart from the above) Xspeed who check out my car recommended me to use it... so i did.

Edited by br3ndan
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/263318-96-r33-rb25det/#findComment-4510132
Share on other sites
Mr_GaZZa Rising Star

Mr_GaZZa

Posted
Posted (edited)
personally I would use a slightly heavier oil than the 0 stuff in a 13 year old 100,000km+ rb

+1

and WOHOoO 30/50, thats like tank oil? you must have high crank pressure 24/7 haha, and then again i wouldnt use the THIN LIGHT oil,

engines pretty worn in at that km's and remember the engine oil goes throught the turbo.. so if you dont want to see blue smoke get something mid range

also I dont know what nissan australia recommend for the vq35 on their aus delivered 350z but the jap/usa v35s use a super light weight low friction oil and weve seen some slight issues with a heavier oil in them here

Nah sorry mate, i think you miss understood what i was saying. I had a skyline r33 low 100k km's just my reccomendations for his.

And also nissan i believe they reccomend 7.5w/30 in the 350z its a semi synthic i think... pretty much watery as.. its not too shabby so i dnt use it.

Also what problems have you seen lol? I've head some burn oil, maybe that super light thin oil justs run pasts the rings lol?

Edited by Mr_GaZZa
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/263318-96-r33-rb25det/#findComment-4510581
Share on other sites
syfon Veteran

syfon

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Haha i always seem to create threads that turn into debates :sick:

I think i'll try to Motul 300v chrono oil and see how it goes.

I put in 4.5 litres of oil when i last changed it, so it wasn't full but it was close to it.

I was thinking, as the oil passes through the turbo, maybe it is burning oil? My brother told me he saw a little bit of blue smoke but that was a few weeks ago and he recommended changing the oil to a diff viscosity and it shouldnt burn any....

Anywho, thank you all for your input, i will try a different oil and let you know how it goes!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/263318-96-r33-rb25det/#findComment-4511522
Share on other sites
br3ndan Mentor

br3ndan

Posted
Posted
and WOHOoO 30/50, thats like tank oil? you must have high crank pressure 24/7 haha, and then again i wouldnt use the THIN LIGHT oil,

engines pretty worn in at that km's and remember the engine oil goes throught the turbo.. so if you dont want to see blue smoke get something mid range

30/50 oil?

If u look again closely, i was saying thats the hot weight a skyline street driver should be looking out

0-15 is the cold weight that a skyline street driver should look at.

i did not mean the cold weight being 30 and the hot weight bbeing 50 :S not even a commodore should be running that!

So far ive been using mobil 1 and ive blown no blue smoke and it doesnt seem to use a drop of oil.

Ive also heard good things about motul 300v chrono.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/263318-96-r33-rb25det/#findComment-4512560
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Piggaz
      Borg Warner EFR Series Turbo's V 2.0

      By Piggaz · Posted

      A few things that seem a bit off here. - why is there 2 BOV’s?  - the turbo smart BOV on the compressor housing, is it turned up ALL the way? I have seen this become an issue on old man Pete’s car. It would push open and recirc, turbo speed would rise and the boost pressure would do weird things. - stock head? Does that include springs? - tried a different MAC valve? Is it plumbed correctly?
    • GTSBoy
      Borg Warner EFR Series Turbo's V 2.0

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Photo of manifold showing gate location? I mean, it's 6Boost, so we probably shouldn't be worrying, but always wroth knowing what the layout is. Plumbed back to atmosphere? Or into the dump?
    • Murray_Calavera
      Steps to DIY sanding car back ready for respray....

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      Yes correct. Also, I'd avoid applying it to soft paint (however I doubt you'll ever have to deal with it in practice). So any paint that hasn't fully hardened, could be a 1k paint that never fully hardened or it could be a 2k paint that was laid down thick and hasn't yet fully hardened. 
    • kevboost7
      One Headlight isn't working - Driver Side Fuse Keeps blowing

      By kevboost7 · Posted

      Wow, i wish i found this sooner.
    • Borci88
      Borg Warner EFR Series Turbo's V 2.0

      By Borci88 · Posted

      Bit of an update to this one. Having some issues on the dyno that held us back (boost spiking) and I want to pass some info over you guys and see what you think is wrong with my setup. The current readout on this dyno is 462rwkw on a low reading dyno so keep in mind it is a real world 500rwkw setup on a hub dyno. Don't read into the power figure too much as a sign of the issue. The short and curly of it is: 2.8 Litre Racepace build RB25 NEO N/A Head with VCT (internally standard however ) Borgwarner EFR 8474  Turbosmart 50mm Straight Gate + Mac valve 6Boost Manifold 4" dump to full 4" exhaust (nil restrictions) Wastegate plumbed back in and all angles in the exhaust system are acceptable and not too sharp. GFB SV52 BOV in cooler piping  Turbosmart BOV in EFR Housing   The issue we are having is it comes onto full boost for example at 4000rpm and spikes to 24/25psi, before dropping down to 17psi before slowly rising back up to the target boost of 23psi. It was extremely uncontrollable and the tuner actually had to ramp in boost progrssively with each 1000rpm on each boost setting we selected to try and reduce the amount of spiking. Sometimes we would see a drop of 10psi from the peak at the beginning of the run, to the low, until it took the next 500-1000rpm to stabilise back up to the target boost. The tuner is pretty confident that the straight gate is just a poorly designed product and leaks too much boost upon cracking the gate open and theres no way to fix it other than going to a poppet valve. He's also confient theres no ignition breakdown or floating valves. The fueling is extremely stable as well. Turbo speed is somewhere around the 109,000rpm area. The spanner in the works for me is that prior to this Borgwarner and StraightGate, the car was tuned on -5 twins at a diferent tuner, and he also had issues controlling the boost with it spiking around the same rpm range, so to me this sounds like the same issue and it can't be anything on the turbo side as this was all changed and I think the behaviour is extremely similar, if not the same. We also removed the mac valve and did a run on wastegate pressure and it still spiked and had the same behaviour. My thoughts on possibilities are: Boost Leak VCT Cam Gear isn't reliably activating consistently - (On this however, we did a run with the VCT disabled and the boost still spiked) Turbosmart BOV is not handling the boost? However this seems unlikely to not be able to handle 20psi. I have a couple of logs that I can't make sense of if anybody knows how to read them and can obtain further logs of other parameters if they are not enough, happy to pay for anyones time. The dyno readout with the power figure is the most recent last week. The other picture is from two weeks prior to that where we couldn't break 400kw (we removed the cat), however the issue of the boost control persisted. @Lithium @Piggaz @burn4005 @GTSBoy @discopotato03 I've tagged those that were quite active in recent pages here, no disrespect to those that know turbos well but I missed tagging. Cheers 
×
×
  • Create New...